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kebmo's water tower and handcart repair shed

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  • edited October 2024
    well, i got the leds installed and the rest of the details placed. then i took a 7" long 1/8" drill bit and popped a hole in the floor and through the base in the corner just inside the large door and stuck a straw (1/8" inch cocktail straw) in the hole and cut it flush with the bottom. heres a picture of the structure with the roof glued down:
    Finished!

    and now i have a question for those in the group that are smarter than me when it comes to lighting, and that's pretty much all of you:
    as you can see in this picture if you look close, i had twisted the four lead wires from the two leds together in order to be able feed them through the straw. in the picture they've been separated and unwound.


    my question is this: can i twist the two red wires together and the two green wires together, and then attach them to the 3v powser source without causing a short of any kind?

    thanks in advance.
    led wiring
  • edited October 2024
    That structure looks fantastic, great work.
    I'm not an electrical guy, but I think that in the configuration of wiring that you're describing, the LED's are wired in parallel. Both LED's will get the same voltage and should work fine as long as the forward voltage (voltage needed to convert electrical energy to light) is achieved. I'd just do a simple bench test before mounting them permanently because forward voltage of an LED is dependent on the color of the LED (some need more than 3 volts to achieve that forward voltage). Also, most LED's that are sold prewired have a resistor to reduce voltage to the appropriate operating voltage but they might be for a 4.5 or even 9 volt power supply. If yours are meant to operate with 3 volts, wiring as you suggest won't hurt them. The worst that could happen is you wouldn't have enough voltage to light them both at the same time. I can't wait to see it all lit up.
  • Looking good...who'd you get the LED's from?.....Evans Design has small 3v powered LED's. If they are 3v....thats all you need on a short run.
  • edited October 2024
    i got 'em from evan design. they're 3v leds and i can run up to 100 of em on two aa batteries according to the folks at evan design. i just didn't know if they would short out because of all the wires "touching"
  • edited October 2024
    I cannot see what kind of insulation is on the wires, a coat of varnish or actual coated insulation. All my Leds have "rubber" coated wires. IF the wires you twist together do not have a break in the wire insulation then you will have no problem.
    I hide wire going up into a building, if it may be seen, inside of a blackened brass tube which I disguise as a drain tube from the roof or someplace as that and it emptys into a barrel or tub. Almost all LEDs for our use operate wiih 3vlts. I use limiting resistors for reducing down any higher voltage.
    Wayne
  • edited October 2024
    If they have either red or green shiny coating...they may be magnetic wire...normally used to wind motor armatures.....if they are regular insulation...that better....more durable. if you grab some liquid electrical tape....you can twist them then paint them down with that....and it should be good. as long as the original insulation is intact...
  • they're from evan designs. 3vpico leds with 14" wires. today i tried touching the powered wires to them and nothing happened. i tested the power on another led and it worked fine. i'm so pissed..
    i'm calling it done for now. i gotta get started on a dollhouse.
  • Kevin, make sure the insulation has been removed from the magnet wire at the end where the connections are made. Sometimes that stuff is hard to get off. I use a blade and scrape it off.
  • these wires are almost as fine as human hair. i can't imagine removing any insulation.
  • edited October 2024
    The red and green coloring is the insulation. It needs to be scraped off to get to the copper of the wire. I'm assuming Evan design didn't do this.

    1000003353

    Scrape it off with a blade or even sandpaper. If you don't get down to the copper, it won't ever work.
  • thanks. i had no idea
  • I've "melted" it off too...gust go easy on the flame.....
  • Kevin, any luck getting the LEDs to work?
  • Jim M said:

    Kevin, any luck getting the LEDs to work?

    i put it on the back burner so i could start on my granddaughter's doll house.

  • Some of my best dio work occurs when it’s on the back burner…LOL
  • I usually just scrape the coating off with a blade...
    we all look forward to you getting back to this build.
  • Extraordinary build.
  • edited December 2024
    welp, i'm almost finished with the dollhouse. once it's finished and shipped, i have a decision to make. do i jump in and start on the saw mill or do i start blue sky? honestly, i'm leaning toward blue sky, because i still find the saw mill a bit intimidating.


    and as far as the bears; ......go cubs!
  • Hi Kevin:
    Just started Blue Sky yesterday. It's a great kit but 30" wide - that's big. Looking forward to seeing what you decide to do. I also have the sawmill but haven't started it yet and I'll probably wait as it is huge. And yes, wasted my time this afternoon watching da Bears get their asses kicked for the 9th time in a row. What a mess! who wants to coach them with so much needing to get "fixed". Time for the McCskeys to sell the Bears to someone who knows what they are doing.
  • Kev…whichever kit you choose to start, I’ll be in the front row following along
    terry
  • Kevin, I think the Blue Sky is a great idea and will get you in the zone for doing the Sierra West Magnum Opus, The O Scale Sawmill !! Anyways, they are both FANTASTIC kits... I'll be sitting next to our friend Vietnamseabee... :smiley:
  • Another vote for Blue Sky, Kevin.
  • kebmo said:

    welp, i'm almost finished with the dollhouse. once it's finished and shipped, i have a decision to make. do i jump in and start on the saw mill or do i start blue sky? honestly, i'm leaning toward blue sky, because i still find the saw mill a bit intimidating.


    and as far as the bears; ......go cubs!

    I agree , the sawmill kit is quite intimidating , but there are a number of elements that could be built before tackling the main structure. I did this with my kit 20 years ago and am still psyching myself to get on with the main structure !
  • blue sky it is! i'll be starting on it in a week or two.
  • Can't go wrong with either kit, both are outstanding and fun builds... looking forward to your progress on either.
  • i'm pretty sure i'll be wrapping up the shingling of the dollhouse i've been working on tomorrow. then it's time to clear the bench off, finish putting the details around the logging and tractor repair. then it's on to blue sky.
  • Hey Kevin. Just catching up on all the threads. I love how this build has turned out.

    Im looking forward to seeing the lights on.
  • i finished it! i went to a ups store to get a price for packing it and shipping it to west texas....$400. not gonna happen....lolfinished dollhouse

    so i went to the post office to see what it would cost parcel post. $220. that's doable, but i would have to pack it. building a crate would add alot of weight/cost, so i'm not sure what's gonna happen. this all started because my son indicated that if they closed on the house in september (they did) that he'd give me the go ahead to start on the dollhouse, cuz they were gonna come up to visit and take it home with them, so i did. and now he says its not likely to happen anytime soon. shit. so i have to store this stupid thing, as if i have the room. (i don't)

    i also cleared my work bench (note i didn't say cleaned.....) and started on blue sky. all that really means is that i glued the laser cut wall frames together as in step one of the manual.
  • Kev…very nice…wanna store it at my grand daughter’s in Lombard? ;-))

    terry
  • You’re a good man, Kevin
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