Howdy, Stranger!
It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!
Categories
- 955 All Categories
- 3 Picture Posting and Resizing
- 56 New Member Introductions
- 115 Off-Topic Forum
- 4 Photography
- 2 Resources
- 16 New Product Information
- 167 The SierraWest Forum
- 9 Brett's Blog
- 119 General News & Ramblings
- 3 Re-Release Information
- 6 Q & A about SierraWest
- 9 What Would You Like to See?
- 384 Builds
- 140 HO Scale Builds
- 165 O Scale Builds
- 60 Finished SW Build Pics
- 14 Miscellaneous Builds
- 190 Techniques
- 19 Working with Wood
- 20 Painting Castings
- 5 Masonry
- 23 Scenery
- 37 Tools and Supplies
- 21 Layout Planning & Building
- 40 Miscellaneous
- 24 Prototype Information
- 22 Reference and Research
Kits in working layouts
I'm struggling to get the few SWSM kits I have to fit into a layout that fits into my room that I can run some trains on. I've searched and have only found two videos/pictures of actual layouts where the SWSM kits have been used.
Does anyone have links or photographs of layouts using SWSM kits so I can see how I could possibly use them.
Thanks
Marty
Does anyone have links or photographs of layouts using SWSM kits so I can see how I could possibly use them.
Thanks
Marty
Comments
I have also seen quite a few others, but it will take some time to find images.
Do you have room dimensions ? and/or a trackplan you are working with yet. I suppose a benchwork plan would be more appropriate as the track is not yet configured or determined. Also which kits do you have and plan to have incorporated?
Karl.A
The space I can use for the layout is restricted to part of the workshop. (See photo)
I need to keep the area around the water heater (on left) open for safety reasons and I have a cold cellar on the right where I store all sorts of "stuff" I access daily. When I took the picture from is my real workbench area and I store my big tools and materials there. So in essence I have a 5'x11' area for trains, except the 2'x2' area around the water heater.
One of my requirements is to make the layout "like" a module layout. What I mean is I want to be able to connect any layout baseboard module to another module without loosing functionality. The only standard would be that the track must leave the module at the 8" mark. (Maybe 6" if pushed).
As for the modules, I have a 24" x 60" and a 30" x 60" already built. I had planned on a 36" x 36" module for the sawmill (that decision has not been made yet.)
As for the kits I have/plan to include are, The Shipyard, Logging Camp Essentials, Foss Landing, Lineside Shed, Twin Mills Sawmill. I have some other manufactures kits that I would like to include; broken down saw shed, gold mine, largish warehouse, victorian house, Lighthouse and keepers cottage and some smaller town type buildings (not attached to these). (My Facebook page has the completed ones in photo galleries)
The track (Code 83 Standard gage) is planned to be hand laid and Fasttrack #5 switches. If required I would use other switch sizes to fit the layout. I'm trying to keep to 18" radius, but I will go to 14" is needed. I will only be running Climax 2 Truck Locos and 40' or less (25') freight/logging cars.
I think that is it.
Marty
The key here is to plan an appropriate space. It's OK to lay the track out before the structures are installed. I used homasote on top of plywood. When I'm ready for the next diorama to be dropped in I just cut out the right shape in the homasote and transcribe this to the foam that I use for the diorama. I tried doing one on homasote and I do not recommend it.
The size of the sawmill through me a curve as I had to rearrange some track.
I used Empire Express to plan the layout and creating the shapes/sizes of the dioramas to be installed was fairly easy. Working the track around this not so much.
We "intend" to move in the next 5 years and we don't know where we will be going. I want a layout that I can transport and re-configure to fit a yet to be known space. The sawmill is not too much of an issue since I have not started it yet and I know it takes 9 sq ft. It's the Shipyard and the two tracks that is making very difficult. I'm may end up removing the yard track to make things comply with requirements.
I did look for Homasote around here and found one store that had it, I went back to buy it and they say they don't care it anymore; another wrinkle to deal with.
I'm still trying to stay positive about it all, but its gosh darn hard since its been a year I've been trying to solve the problem.
Make to the drawing board for another try.
Marty
John
Marty
A few more days and I'll be able to get back to The Shipyard.
Respectfully,
John
I was thinking of moving the tractor repair shed and installing a scratch build machine shop in its place. No matter how long I looked at it and pondered I still couldn't get a feel for how it would look in a new location. So what to do? Pop it out of course. Cut 2 wires and pry it out.
I got it to the new location and decided I didn't like it there. Now all I have to do is drop it back in, re-solder the 2 wires and dust up the edges with a little dirt.
I have a sort of, kind of track plan, and while there are four more modules to go, the last four won't have nearly as many structures. A mining area will be next, and the last a wharf with at least three piers.
I'm hand laying code 70 track with #5 Fast Track turnouts. Eighteen inch radius- like Marty only Shays or Heislers, and maybe a dockside. The first two modules are wired and trains can run just fine- just isn't great for operations yet as they don't have any turnouts! I'm almost done with module 3- a logged over area with four turnouts and a trestle. Here are some pics as to where we are today. I don't have a scanner, so excuse the iPhone shot of the track sketch- I think you can get the idea.
As they say, I'll keep you posted.
The layout and plan is going to be well featured.
I really like the way you have incorporated continuous running and still have plenty of switching opportunities.
I also really like the "woods to water" theme, for me, the best of two modeling genres combined into one.
Karl.A
Last week I managed to squeeze an simple loop around one of the modules (60"x30"). I used 14" radius with a slight easement. I could run a GP38-2w and 40' around it without any issue, except the Atheran snow plow prevented the McHenry coupler complete movement. Even without replacing the coupler with a long shank coupler, it runs without incident for hours. I reduced the radius to 13.5" and it started to have issues that were related to the snow plow. I will replace the coupler, or file down the snow plow and it should be ok.
I will be scratch/kit building all my boxcars and will make them 25' or 36' long to give me that extra clearances. I will most likely put on longer shank Kadee couplers to give spacing between the inside corners of the cars.
Here is what it looks like.
Video to see it run.
Marty
That is going to be one of the finest I've seen when completed.
Jerry
Paul
Respectfully,
John
Thanks for the kind words from my mentor KarlA.- one of the world's premier model builders. And to Dustin, Marty, Jerry, Paul, and John- sounds like a sixties rock group!
John, the answer is "a very long time". The eight SWSM dioramas represent hundreds of hours of fun over about seven years. The layout part only a few weeks, although much of the benchwork has been in place for several years, and has served as a storage area for these and several other kit and scratch built dioramas.
I think I'll start a thread on my approach to combining the kits into the layout, including hand laying the track, scenery, etc., as doing a build thread tends to help me keep my nose to the modeling grindstone. I may have to wait until I get a good start on the mining end of the layout, and that will require yet another thread with a new partner in crime.
A great backfill on information. Thank you - it seemed likely the time line was pretty long getting so much detail in so many pieces.
May I please encourage you to fill us in at more frequent intervals, if you have the time & patience. Your work is so good that not only is it interesting but it especially instructive - and an excellent reference source.
John
In reading over the comments in this thread, I note that several of you have switched from or completely bypassed Homasote for foam. Do you hand-lay track on foam? I am really hoping to hand lay track for all exposed track but I didn't think foam would hold spikes??
My apologies for rabbit-trailing off the original topic here! Feel free to send me a response on my personal email kc8fab@gmail.com