Thanks so much Travis! I find one of the more difficult scenic projects is working a relatively large area of open real estate as you describe. In order to have ruts and tire tracks, the dirt layer needs to be deep enough to accomplish this. Having a container full of the dirt with the debris mixed in it can be spread to whatever depth you want.
Hey Tom, I did a test piece first to get an idea of how much debris to mix in to get the right look. Mixing seemed the best way to integrate the debris effectively.
Nice hearing from you Jerry and thanks much! Getting there, should have all the periphery scenic work done in a couple days. I will then be able to concentrate on the structure planting and detailing.
Scenic work is coming along well. However, in order to plan and layout a scene I'm working on, I needed to get the MACK AB Flatbed Kit put together, painted and detailed. The MACK will be the key feature for this scene along the logging road.
My version of the MACK AB Flatbed defines its use as the Tie Mill Company maintenance vehicle. It would drive around and lend support to the operation wherever needed. I decided to put some low sides on the bed to contain all the equipment. This project took a few days to complete between assembly, which was very straightforward, painting, and detailing.
MACK AB Flatbed decked out with all its maintenance equipment which are SierraWest 3D detail parts. NOTE the running boards. These were not done just to change from the single step to a long running board. In fact, I dropped the 3D print step and in the process of locating it, I stepped on it...it did not survive! I was in the zone to finished up this project so rather than call Brett and get a replacement, I simply built the running boards. Tow rope around the front bumper was just to add some interest.
I love the tool box print Brett came up with!
I drilled two small holes in the back of the front seat body support and glued in some tiny screw eyes. I then put a "cable" across to hang clevis hooks, etc. I'll have to get a better picture of that feature.
Hi Ken: Man this looks really great. You did a super job and I like your "additions" with the cable hanger and front winch. Your great weathering brings it all together.
Hey Jim, thanks much and goes to show the versatility of these awesome 3D print kits. Such a pleasure to work with. Easy to assemble, take paint and weathering like a dream, and are incredibly detailed.
I wasn't happy with the cropping on the photos so I re-did the sizing just a bit just to see if they look a little better. As you can see , these are cropped as far as I can go. All are repeat photos so disregard if not interested!
Looks great Ken. Hope you LPs are careful of splinters! Builds like this really show how awesome it is to have the small 3d printed detail parts to individually color and place.
Thanks Travis! You are so right, the individual detail parts allow total customization of every scene. Splinters from what?, that's a leather seat dude...damn the weather and carry on!
He thanks so much Jerry. Now only the readers here and the FBI have my prints on file:)
In addition to the SWSM Mack AB Flatbed kit, I have completed most of the scenic work around the periphery of the Main Tie Mill. I set about securing all the wood products for the scenic work at the mill. Below is a picture of the basic materials I collected:
This collection of materials are all natural. Going from the top row down and from left to right they are:
-Scale logs cut to eight foot lengths and from roughly a scale 12" to 24" diameter. -Rough wood chips -Finished cut ties -Off-cut slabs -Saw dust -Unfinished cut ties -Thin cross section cuts and wedge cuts -Larger wood chips.
My main goal was to find small twigs that had the bark grain prominent and running vertical to the living tree. Most trees have the bark running the long dimension and I felt this was paramount to giving a small twig the look of a large main trunk log. This is aged white pine branches.
These are the slab off-cuts. This was done with my #11 blade. Note how the bark grain creates a very realistic look of large slabs.
Regarding sawdust...Very light and uniform colored saw dust does not look very realistic in scale modeling, it's just too bright and stark looking. Toning down light sawdust can be accomplished with stains and/or pigments. However, obtaining a very realistic sawdust can be accomplished by choosing the right wood and cutting method to begin with.
Here are two types of sawdust. The one on the left was taken from the sawdust collection box under my table saw and then sifted to get a fine texture. Note the uniform light color and despite sifting the long dimension "chips" that filtered through the screen mesh in a vertical position. Most wood cut on a table saw is processed lumber which produces clean light wood like 2x4s etc. and clean light sawdust.
The sawdust on the right was obtained by using a small toothed hobby saw and cutting into the pine twigs that are illustrated above. I used larger branches of course but note the darker color and mix of dark and very dark. The darkest is the dust from cutting through the bark. Also note how much finer the sawdust is and this was without sifting! This sawdust can be used directly on the project without any other coloring. It's a more tedious process, but well worth the extra time and effort.
Somebody’s up early today! Great tutorial on preparing backwoods scenery materials. My Tie Mill will arrive next week. I have 40 acres of pine trees so I better get started harvesting the branches!
Comments
Jerry
My version of the MACK AB Flatbed defines its use as the Tie Mill Company maintenance vehicle. It would drive around and lend support to the operation wherever needed. I decided to put some low sides on the bed to contain all the equipment. This project took a few days to complete between assembly, which was very straightforward, painting, and detailing.
MACK AB Flatbed decked out with all its maintenance equipment which are SierraWest 3D detail parts. NOTE the running boards. These were not done just to change from the single step to a long running board. In fact, I dropped the 3D print step and in the process of locating it, I stepped on it...it did not survive! I was in the zone to finished up this project so rather than call Brett and get a replacement, I simply built the running boards. Tow rope around the front bumper was just to add some interest.
I love the tool box print Brett came up with!
I drilled two small holes in the back of the front seat body support and glued in some tiny screw eyes. I then put a "cable" across to hang clevis hooks, etc. I'll have to get a better picture of that feature.
Front view. The detail in this kit is amazing.
Piece in-hand for scale! More later...Ken
The "cable" is ship rigging rope weathered to look like steel cable.
Nice collection of SierraWest 3D printed detail parts...game changers!
Man this looks really great. You did a super job and I like your "additions" with the cable hanger and front winch. Your great weathering brings it all together.
Hey Jim, thanks much and goes to show the versatility of these awesome 3D print kits. Such a pleasure to work with. Easy to assemble, take paint and weathering like a dream, and are incredibly detailed.
Thanks so much Brett! The yellow color weathers so nicely. I was going to do the basic black but it just wasn’t gettin it!
Nice picture of the hand!
Just amazing work as usual!
Jerry
He thanks so much Jerry. Now only the readers here and the FBI have my prints on file:)
Appreciate that Art! Nice hearing from you.
Thanks much Kevin!
This collection of materials are all natural. Going from the top row down and from left to right they are:
-Scale logs cut to eight foot lengths and from roughly a scale 12" to 24" diameter.
-Rough wood chips
-Finished cut ties
-Off-cut slabs
-Saw dust
-Unfinished cut ties
-Thin cross section cuts and wedge cuts
-Larger wood chips.
My main goal was to find small twigs that had the bark grain prominent and running vertical to the living tree. Most trees have the bark running the long dimension and I felt this was paramount to giving a small twig the look of a large main trunk log. This is aged white pine branches.
These are the slab off-cuts. This was done with my #11 blade. Note how the bark grain creates a very realistic look of large slabs.
Regarding sawdust...Very light and uniform colored saw dust does not look very realistic
in scale modeling, it's just too bright and stark looking. Toning down light sawdust can be accomplished with stains and/or pigments. However, obtaining a very realistic sawdust can be accomplished by choosing the right wood and cutting method to begin with.
Here are two types of sawdust. The one on the left was taken from the sawdust collection box under my table saw and then sifted to get a fine texture. Note the uniform light color and despite sifting the long dimension "chips" that filtered through the screen mesh in a vertical position. Most wood cut on a table saw is processed lumber which produces clean light wood like 2x4s etc. and clean light sawdust.
The sawdust on the right was obtained by using a small toothed hobby saw and cutting into the pine twigs that are illustrated above. I used larger branches of course but note the darker color and mix of dark and very dark. The darkest is the dust from cutting through the bark. Also note how much finer the sawdust is and this was without sifting! This sawdust can be used directly on the project without any other coloring. It's a more tedious process, but well worth the extra time and effort.
Close up, note the darker mixed color and much finer sawdust and this is without sifting