The last two nights I installed the ridge board, the trusses, and half of the perlans. To make things work and have an overhang on the front and back of the roof I sanded off the notch on each end of the truss. This allowed the truss to fit down between the front and back walls. I glued the trusses to the ridge board. I then glued 1/16 inch square basswood to the top of the trusses to create an overhang. I then added the first perlan to the rafter ends. Using a scale 2X4 for a spacer I added the rest of the perlans for the back side of the roof. I added an second perlan at the peak of the roof because the spacing did not come out just right and there would have been a gap. The open space is where I will build the frame for the rear roof vent hatch. I think tonight I will add the perlans to the front of the roof and build the frames for the vent hatches. Thanks for looking and as always all comments and suggestions are welcomed. Randy
Thanks Kevin are you talking about the siding or the perlans? The perlans are actually brownish. I used 408.5 chalk with a very little 408.3. I agree Ken It is nice to see it lookin g like a building as opposed just a bunch of sticks. Thanks, Randy
Kevin, I guess the lighter wood with a few streaks of the darker brown may give that impression. Bryan and Brett, thanks, got the other side finished last night.,Art, I had to do it that way otherwise the intermediate trusses would have been higher than the gable ends. The 1/16's added on top provided nice rafter ends for the overhang. Randy
The colors look more uniform in the picture than the do in real life. Do you think the ends of the shingles are to uneven? Thanks for your comments. Randy
Love it, be sure to clean the cut, exposed edges up a bit. Uneven is good but some of the edges look like they were cut with a dull blade or not cut all the way thru and are frayed a bit too much.
As usual, I'll agree with Brett, I usually rub my fingertip along the 'broken' edge to remove any overly large splinters but still leave the rough edge. There's usually one oversized 'splinter' at the break of each, but it takes no time to rub them off as you are laying. Looking great so far.
I need to read and look at the photos with my glasses on more often...I didn't initially see the splinters...Karl has a great method of partly cutting thru with the blade then snapping up to get a rough edge. Shingles in real life are sliced off with a bit of a slope....the thicker dimension on the bottom as the shingle is applied...we can't do that with stripwood.....and that edge is crisp from the saw when new....as they age and weather...they "breakdown" to a rough texture....Backwoods cut shingles as Brett refers to may have uneven cuts...I normally apply my shingles a bit "weathered"...then work them once glued down and cured a bit with a #11 blade....or an pointy dental tool to "rough" up the edges....then finish with a brass brush a bit more to texture the shingle's further...remember to touch up with some chalk and alcohol to avoid tone differences....
Thanks Joel, Karl, Art, and Ken. Art I did use Karls method of holding the wood down with the chopper blade and breaking the wood upward. I have goon back and used the back of a #11 blade to scrape off most of the fuzzies. Looks like I need to go back with the #11 blade and do a little more work. The stove was a relative recent addition to the repair shed. So I used the back side of some shingles to note a new addition.
Looks like I hit the wrong button again and posted before I was finished. The final picture is of this side of the "finished" roof. A question of the forum. Should I add another course of shorter shingles to the top before I add the metal ridge cap? I am thinking that that last row of shingles is a little to big. Yes I do plan to use a metal ridge cap. The two pieces are left over from the truck repair kit. As always any comments and suggestions are welcomed. Thanks, Randy
Comments
I then glued 1/16 inch square basswood to the top of the trusses to create an overhang.
I then added the first perlan to the rafter ends.
Using a scale 2X4 for a spacer I added the rest of the perlans for the back side of the roof. I added an second perlan at the peak of the roof because the spacing did not come out just right and there would have been a gap.
The open space is where I will build the frame for the rear roof vent hatch. I think tonight I will add the perlans to the front of the roof and build the frames for the vent hatches. Thanks for looking and as always all comments and suggestions are welcomed. Randy
Randy
The colors look more uniform in the picture than the do in real life. Do you think the ends of the shingles are to uneven? Thanks for your comments. Randy
I usually rub my fingertip along the 'broken' edge to remove any overly large splinters but still leave the rough edge.
There's usually one oversized 'splinter' at the break of each, but it takes no time to rub them off as you are laying.
Looking great so far.
Looks like I need to go back with the #11 blade and do a little more work. The stove was a relative recent addition to the repair shed. So I used the back side of some shingles to note a new addition.
A question of the forum. Should I add another course of shorter shingles to the top before I add the metal ridge cap? I am thinking that that last row of shingles is a little to big. Yes I do plan to use a metal ridge cap. The two pieces are left over from the truck repair kit. As always any comments and suggestions are welcomed. Thanks, Randy