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Comments
I t turned out the bending was not that big of a problem compared to getting the wire through the goose neck. I found that twisting the wires together in a tight twist and then sliding them into the tube helped. I would push the wire in a little bit at a time until it stopped. Then I would pivot the goose neck on the wire. Then try to push more wire into the tube. If the wire did not move I would pull a fraction of an inch out and pivot the tube again and the try to push more wire into the tube. I kept doing this until the wire made all the way through the tube. Then with some paint and chalk it looks like this,
After about four hours of fiddling I now have two of these goose neck lights for outside the truck repair.
I give you credit though... yours look super nice!!!
For those unfamiliar with this kit I wanted to mention the lighting and lighting products are not part of the kit and are not SW products.
I glued the interior wall in place. The two boxes and yellow jack are now glued to the floor. The little spot of glue in the interior doorway has been scraped off and re chalked.
The workbench on the other side of the floor had some details glued under the bench. I am thinking about replacing the door on the cabinet. It looks to heavy in these pictures.
I think the next project will be to run wires up behind the boards at each of the two corners yet to be glued and the end of the interior wall. Again all comments and suggestions are appreciated. Thanks Randy
May I suggest that you put the wire through before you bend the tubing.
I echo Carls comments on the wire insertion, it was my first thought, but, I've never done it myself so I initially held my comment back.
As you stated you are open to them, so, I only have two minor suggestions,
1 Eliminate the door on the cabinet, as you said, it 'feels' too heavy. I dont think it's needed as it subtracts more from the visual than it adds. If you really want a door there personally I would eliminate the bracing and just have a single 1x12 or an offcut 1/64 ply cut to size... for me, the bracing is the visual distraction, not the door.
2 Dust some 408.3 along the bottom edge (on the floor)of the bench and up where the details meet the floor. Do this with a tiny detail brush to blend the verticle items down into the floor, this will eliminate the 'stark' line between, ... such as the yellow gas tank, and the boxes, even the red jack to the floor. It will give a subtle flow between them and give a slight shadow effect.
Some superb work you are displaying and my suggestions are just ideas for you to think about.
Floor is nice and dirty. If you need to add footpaths, a light sanding in select areas can do that.
Bryan, at this point it a mute point for this build as I only need two goose necks and I have them.
Karl, I am going to remove the door to the cabinet. It is just a distraction. I also will take your suggestion about the 408.3 chalk. The yellow gas tank may need a little piece of wood that was "trapped" under when it was set in place. I did not get it all the way down on the floor and it is glued to the other tanks. Thanks every body for the comments and suggestions, they are appreciated. Randy
Cut the tube about half inch too long, thread the wire (with the bulb attached) through the shade first and then ,starting from the (future) shade end of the tube and just enough to poke out the (future) wall end.
Bend the tube to shape having any excess tubing at the wall end. This can either be pushed deeper into the structure or cut off.
Once bent continue to pull through the wire until you have the bulb and shade in place, superglue or epoxy to secure.
Job done.
One day I'll get around to it, haha.
Great work so far.
Karl, I took your suggestions about the floor and the cabinet. Here are two pictures to show the results. The first shows the yellow gas tank with the piece of scrap wood caught under it. The second shows the doorless cabinet and the details under the workbench blinded in better with the 408.3 chalk. Again, as always thanks for all your comments and suggestions. Randy
everything looks superb, beautiful work.
The blending worked out well, subtle, but you have eliminated the sharp lines and things now look like they are 'together as one', nicely done.
Jim
I had hit a snag the last few days because I am waiting for some things from Brett. I have been doing some prep work for the roofs. I cut the corrugated roofing material for the main roof, cut the tar paper for the shed, cut and stained the purlins for the main roof, and finished and installed the front and back wall goose neck lights. I also decided that since I was going to use purlins for the main building and not the cardboard supplied with the kit I would make a wood under layment for the shed roof.
This is the under side of the roof as I forgot to take a picture of the top side. The wood was stained with gray and white chalk with a little blick on a few boards. I wanted to keep the color light as the boards would be under the cover of the tar paper.
I then installed the tar paper tearing it in places to expose the boards underneath. I then used a sanding sponge to lightly sand the top of the tar paper. this helps to bring out the wrinkles and seams.
I then used 234,3 and 408.9 dry chalk to dust the roof and brushed down from top to bottom.
I may go back with the sanding sponge and take off a little more of the black at the seams like the seam that shows up just under the large tear on the left side. I like the wood showing through the tears in the tar paper. I am also thinking about adding a patch of a different color tar paper somewhere to add a little more interest. May be a dark green. Or do you think that might be to much with the tears and boards showing through?
The last two things are the goose neck lights. I drilled two #71 holes, threaded the wires through, then pushed the tubes through, straightened up the tube, and then glued it with a little ACC. The shade is an O scale 18 inch stamping from Ngineering. The escutcheons are N scale 18 inch lamp shade. I am using a nine volt battery to power the lights at this point.
The front wall light.
The back wall light.
The lights should be brighter when I get all of them hooked up to the twelve volt power supply. Thanks for taking your time to read and look. All comments and suggestions are appreciated. Thanks Randy
Hinges and details on the door look great. Really nice work.
Randy, your technique looks great. I don't think I'd add a different color patch. The lights turned out great, nice job. I love adding lights to the structures, it adds so much and brings the scene to life.