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Comments
I am now getting set-up to detail the walls for the Bait & Tackle Shop...more later.
Side wall of the Tool Shop as seen from the rear of Shelby's
Updated the right side window with the interior screen to match the other lower level window.
Appreciate that Brett. Those windows are just timeless!...for a kit almost 25 years old the windows are still the best prototypical and detailable (made up a new word just for these windows!) windows out there.
Great that you mentioned about the crackle paint "pieces", that's the bottle of wax when it comes for making this method work in 1:87 scale. If I wasn't able to get the "pieces" to where they are, I wasn't going to do it at all. There were a few areas that the size of the pieces were too big but I just scraped them off.
First I study the manual and templates and come up with an overall plan for the structure. I map the areas I want to show any significant weathering in the form of missing/rotted siding.
I then grain the siding with my wire brush. This is followed by an application of nail holes at the stud framing that would be present. I always lay in the nail holes before staining the base wood and color cots. This allows the nail holes to pop and then get toned down with the paint and fill in many of the nail holes as it naturally would. This results in a vague visual indication of the nail holes.
Next step is to impart all the joints where two boards meet, missing pieces of siding, heavily weathered areas, etc...Once this is done I give the wall a coat of base stain. This is what will show through the weathered, chipped, and faded paint. Further applications of pigments completes the post color detailing to come later.
Once satisfied with the base wood staining and weathering its on to the color coat...
Wall section with basic pre-stain detailing as described above.
Wall section following base stain application. More walls to go.
Wall section with missing siding revealing the stud framing, that's really not there and the interior siding that's also...not there, creating great depth and visual interest. In order for this to look right and to scale, it's not as easy as just cutting a chunk out and framing it in. The edges of the exposed siding would be way too thick to look right. Therefore, the siding must be thinned down to the scale thickness of the actual siding and not the pice of scribed siding you started with.
Here I have removed enough wood down to the scale thickness of the siding. You can actually see the ghosting of the nail holes showing through.
Did you consider adding actual clapboards to the scribed siding like Brett’s more recent kits call for.
That is a great technique for a very unique look. I have only done it on one build and that was O'Neills. Didn't really think about it for this build...should have.
Jerry
Thanks Jerry. I end up making a lot of work for myself! lol.
Result of the pointed awl used to scribe cracks in the board edges.
Close up of same. Remember, each board in HO is 1/16 of an inch wide!
The pointed awl I use.
Base detailing done on all the walls with a couple more added areas of damage/rot. probably more than would be typically seen but adds a good bit of interest. Remember, these areas can be toned down with exterior details and scenic work hiding them with small areas peeking through.
the mineola hotel on fox lake illinois. it has fallen on hard times. the bar downstairs has been the only portion of the building open to the public for decades. last time i had a beer there, the paint peel was over 100% of the building. have a look.https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mineola_Hotel
some raccoon-caused damage up near the eaves or on the roof would look really cool.
ho scale raccoons are readily available too, so you could work some of your magic on it.