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Comments
I'll start working on the walls when I get back.
Enjoy the Super Bowl!!
Phil
After removing the laser cut walls from the carrier sheet and coloring them with 408.5, I'm ready to trim the door and window openings using the 3" and 4" stripwood. Here is a shot of my work. I concentrated my weathering efforts on the two side strips by the large door. This trim in the real world would have suffered a lot of abuse over the years. However, I tried not to overdo it.
Note that the trim hangs out the front of the wall. Also, be sure the side with the scribed walls faces the interior, not the exterior.
Next, I'm ready to start the front wall. Because I need the stripwood to be flush on the sides of the wall and the bottom, I use the wood guides.
As Brett states on p. 53 of the instruction manual, take your time and carefully select each piece of stripwood to show off all that detail work you did. Here is my front wall before trimming and a detail shot of the wood.
I really like the look and I have to tip my hat to Ken Karns and his advanced wood tutorial. I did my homework and tried some of the techniques in his tutorial and I'm glad I did.
Practice tip #1: When weathering stripwood at the bottom where you want some wood rot, start with your No. 11 blade and make some slices at the end of the board. The slices don't need to be long. Follow up with your steel brush and stab it at the end of the board. This will loosen up some of the wood. Follow up with the handy-dandy sanding stick Ken highlights in his tutorial and sand down the fragments. Finally, dip the end in your A/I solution. It may take more than one dip to get the look you want. DO NOT USE BLACK CHALK!! Right Alan!!! Of course, we all learn from other's challenges.
Practice tip #2: Nail holes. There has been a lot of debate on this forum about using nail holes. I tend to stay away from them unless I have a spot where some carefully placed nail holes would enhance the look. The Welding Shop wall is one of those spots.
As you can see from the picture, they are very small. I use a knitting machine needle to make the nail holes (Thanks Bill for the suggestion). Here is a picture.
Next time: The Welding Shop Back Wall
Thanks for following. Phil
I've been taking my time and not rushing the installation of the siding. As a result, I believe I have achieved the look I was after.
Now, I need to get to those side walls and we need to talk about creating a trap, which is a Brett innovation that ensures the walls go together very well.
Thanks for following. Phil
Next time: Windows, doors, and other details for the welding shop.
Thanks for following. Phil
I did finish the doors for the welding shop.
I concentrated on putting a great deal of wear on the boards for the full effect.
Practice Tip: There will be times when you just can't get to the workbench. When you do, don't rush to make up for lost time. Don't compromise your commitment to the quality of your build.
Thanks for following. Phil
Great work on those doors. Beautifully done.
Where did we leave off? Oh yes, p. 56 of the instruction manual. Now that the walls of the welding shop as well as the doors and windows are complete, it's time to add some great detail to the walls. This is definitely where Sierra West kits differ from other kits. On p. 56, Brett has you do a number of tasks.
The first task is to create some hoses that will hang on the wall. Taking the small wire he provides and cutting them to 3 - 4 inch lengths, wrap them around the handle of a paint brush at different points to get various size circles of wire. Then carefully squeeze the wire into an oblong shape. I left some of mine in a more circular form. Once you do this paint them white, green or red. Once I did this, I weathered them with grey chalk.
Placement of the hoses on the wall can be as creative as you want it to be. I decided to do what Brett suggested. Below is a picture of his finished wall which I will roughly use as a guide.
As you can see on the left, there is a stand of 55 gallon barrels. I want to make sure my hoses don't hang down too low and interfere with this stand. Therefore, I took out of couple of barrels and then put some tape on the wall to remind me where to place the hoses.
I then places each of the hoses where I thought they should go.
Once I was satisfied with their placement, I took a small felt marker and marked where the wire hanger should go.
I then found a drill bit the size of the wire I will use for the hangers and drilled holes where the marks are located.
Now, it's time to make the wire hangers. They can be simple straight pieces or more elaborate ones. Here is one of the more elaborate ones.
To me, you need the more elaborate ones for the larger hoses and the simple straight pieces for the smaller ones. I used CA to glue them in place as well as the hoses. Here is a shot of the wall after gluing them on.
If you have any single wire hanging down, be sure it is hanging straight down.
I also started working on the large resin lamp shades. I put them as well as the mailbox on a popsicle stick and painted black. Once dry, I will paint the shades green and the mailbox brown with some metal color accents.
Finally, there are some bottles that will go on a shelf. I wanted a green glass look and Bill Obenauf taught me to use gallery glass to get the perfect look. The green color can be darkened by adding in a little dark green.
Don't be fooled by the color when you paint it on the bottle. It looks milky and a light green, but as it dries, it turns clear and dark green. I then painted the top with one of the Reaper metal colors.
Next time: I'll finish the details of the welding shop walls and then put them together. Hopefully it won't take me a month to do this.
Thanks for your patience and your following along. Phil
planning pays off, busy but natural.
The gallery glass looks good, but here's my thoughts, try using yellow instead of green, to simulate the oil in a clear bottle, (you could also have them filled at different levels)
Also the caps...
I know these beautiful things are tiny,
my thoughts.