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Dueling Shacks - 1st attempt

TomK
in O Scale Builds
This is my 1st attempt at a SierraWest build so I will follow Brett instructions which I can say is the best I have seen.
I grained the stripwood using a 9" wire brush (not sure if I applied enough pressure). I tried to used equal amount of 408.3 (Raw Umber Shade), 408.5 (Raw Umber Shade) and a small amount of 408.9 (Raw Umber Dark Shade) .. I think I got carried away on the Raw Umber Dark Shade. Over-think it --- I did.
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Comments

  • TomK
    Great - No pictures.... It's going to be a long day..
  • TomK
    I resized the images to 900 x 600.
    DSCN4892
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  • TomK
    The last piece of strip wood on the right looks like something you would get from Home Depot or Lowes...DSCN4900
  • KKarnsKKarns
    Wood looks great. Any variation in your chalk application just gives the wood variety and random subtile color differences which is what you want...hard to go wrong here. Texture, graining and weathering is where you make or break your wood work...Ken
  • TomK
    Some additional pictures. DSCN4897
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    Not sure about the graining … Doesn't look like I pressed hard enough. What do you think?

    Tom
  • TomMich
    Graining looks fine. You might consider adding some knot holes and other defects. There is a great tutorial on this forum by Ken Karns. It is well worth looking into.
  • KKarnsKKarns
    Graining is a personal choice and the amount tends to depict the age and deterioration of the structure. I tend to model with a good bit of grain and weathering. I agree with TomM. regarding the wood detailing with knot holes, defects, etc..this gives the wood some character but again, depends on your goals of the end product...Ken
  • brownbr
    Agree about personal choice on graining. I think I grain too heavily for a hyper-realistic look, but it is appealing to me.
  • adminadmin
    Yup, personal choice. Only way to gauge what you like is to dive in and build something... uhmmmm like this! Don't overthink and enjoy. The color/graining looks great and I am looking forward to your next post!
  • Jim M
    edited January 2020
    TomK said:

    The last piece of strip wood on the right looks like something you would get from Home Depot or Lowes...DSCN4900

    :smiley: Sad, but unfortunately, so true.

    You're doing great. That is a great kit to start with. You'll learn so much just going through the build. Have fun with it.


  • kebmokebmo
    i tried buying my "hockey sticks" from menards. there wasn't a straight 2x2 anywhere inside the building or out in their lumber yard. they probably get their lumber from china.
    i think your wood grain looks fine. so does the coloring. if you want you can use the darker parts toward the bottom of the shed to help depict waterlogged boards.
    you should also think about beefing up your brush selection.
    try to find one of these (plumber's wire brush) in a hardware store, they work pretty great:
    https://www.amazon.com/Hot-Max-26203-Fitting-Plastic/dp/B00N2TTBXS/ref=sr_1_16?crid=3QRHR0PYF37Y6&keywords=plumbers+wire+brush&qid=1578529265&sprefix=plumbers+wire+br,aps,175&sr=8-16

    don't buy that one though, go to the hardware store and you'll find them cheaper and with larger brush heads.
    and get one of these too (file card):
    https://www.amazon.com/Osborn-International-75116SP-Steel-Length/dp/B00J06IPQG/ref=sr_1_2?crid=Q2M8JVNMT00R&keywords=file+card+brush&qid=1578529480&sprefix=file+card,aps,175&sr=8-2

    there are more types available, but these two will get you a long way down the road.
  • TomK
    I stopped by our local Ace Hardware and pick up a box 0f 100 single edge razor blades, a card file brush along with a plumber's brush. Thanks for the info.

    We used to have 3 local lumber yards where I live now we are down to one. Always got top quality lumber. Mom and pop stores are being put out of business by the likes of Wally World, Lowes just to name a few. I always try to shop local.
  • kebmokebmo
    happy modeling! keep an on that box of 100 blades. they tend to rust after time.
  • TomK
    Side walls are done. I had a major malfunction when building the front walls. I call Brett and told him what happen (dumb mistake), so he is sending me a replacement template.DSCN4912
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    I have one question. What size/type blade should I use to remove the strip wood from the window opening?

    Comments ….

    Thanks
    Tom
  • sdrees
    These walls look great Tom. I would use a No. 11 blade. You might want to get rid of the fuzzy stuff with some very fine steel wool.
  • brownbr
    Agree. #11 blade. Steel wool on fuzzies.

    I really like the dark gouges in random boards. Really adds character.
  • kebmokebmo
    new #11 blade, several easy passes.
  • Robert.GRobert.G
    That's what I use aswel.
  • adminadmin
    Tom, I switched over to #17 and #18 chisel blades, you'll see these recommended in my newer manuals. #11's work great, you just need to be careful not to tear the wood, use light passes and a new blade. The chisel blades are easier to control and the different sizes allow you to get into small openings like windows. They provide a cleaner cut with less chance of "wandering" and over/under cutting.

    IMG_0600
  • kebmokebmo
    oh yeah, i use one of those too. the #17
  • CarlLaskeyCarlLaskey
    I use a hammer and chisel.
  • kebmokebmo
    no wonder your models look so good....
  • TomK
    Several light passes of #000 steel wool took care of the fuzzies.

    Looks like I need to pick up some chisel blades.

    Tom

  • CarlLaskeyCarlLaskey
    Tom.
    I use the soft sanding blocks in the fine grit for the fuzzies and the corse for graining the wood they are dual purpose and cleaning up the ends of the wood,
    I think this will work for you. .............Carl..............
  • TomK
    Spend much of the day yesterday building the two windows. Let me put it another way .. I spent much of the day on my hands and knees with a flashlight look for the acetate that flew off into outer space... I did fine it. Not a big fan of CA but I gave it a shot using an out air brush need to place the CA .. worked pretty good. Can you fine the two mistakes that I made.... the acetate … I place two of them dull side facing down... Lesson learned.DSCN4913
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    Carl,

    Thanks for the tip on the sanding block … they are on my list.

    Wife left me a Honey Due list so I better get moving. You know what they say … Happy Wife...Happy Live.

    Tom

    Be safe.
  • kebmokebmo
    looking good!
  • MountaingoatMountaingoat
    For a supposed beginner, really good. You will be surprised how good your results will be if you follow Brett's instruction manual. Happy modeling.
  • kebmokebmo
    goat is exactly right. if you do what brett says, it'll turn out to be the best model you've ever built. seriously. no other manufacturer is going to provide the kind of instruction manual brett does. and he covers everything. if you can't find it in the manual, you missed it. it's there. trust me. been there done that.
  • KKarnsKKarns
    edited February 2020
    Great progress Tom. No worries Tom on the "glass". I would dirty up the shiny side a bit with chalks. You could also mask off that pane and re-spray that side.
  • TomK
    Does it make a difference if I use acrylic or enamel for my primer for resin casting?

    TomK
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