visit sierrawestscalemodels.com

Official O Scale Truck Repair Build Thread

1…457910…14

Comments

  • kebmokebmo
    i agree with carl and bill. joel, to answer your question about the silverwood that you posted to my "page" and i can't figure out how to respond to, it got it from bis too. and i only stained the boards with it twice.
  • brownbr
    Looks great. Hardhats might be required to work under the crowbar.
  • Robert.GRobert.G
    A 3D painting. So well done.. Perhaps the overall look of the tarpaper is still a bit to 'clean' But maybe you didn't come to that part yet.
    Again, wonderful work.
  • GeezerbillGeezerbill
    Perfect color tones on everything Joel. The handsaw is incredible. I agree with Robert on the tarpaper but still the overall wall is just great. Enjoying your build!!

    Geezerbill
  • TomMich
    Awesome! Well done! The detail work and coloring is incredible!
  • Joel
    edited May 2019
    Thanks Carl, Bill, Ken, Kevin, Bryan, Bill and Robert. Everything is form the kit except the saw. The tool arrangement is almost identical to Brett's so I can't take credit. I do think the tarpaper is a bit plain I may try and muddy it up some but I do worry about damaging what I've done. Ah well I'm always up for an experiment. Just the T-Square to place and this wall is done.

    I can easily do a tutorial about making resin look like wood ( although Robert does it better). It really is just the old CA techniques with a bit of highlighting and shadows (with more CA or just plain chalk).
  • kebmokebmo
    please do it. or perhaps you and robert could collaborate?
  • GeezerbillGeezerbill
    I agree

    Geeerbill
  • Jerry
    Nice detailing Joel.

    Jerry
  • Joel
    edited June 2019
    Ok a little side trip while I get my details painted. A quick tutorial on my method to get the resin to look like wood. I hope Robert will follow up with a similar step by step expose and maybe others as well so we can compare and contrast.

    So I took three mostly wooden castings and cleaned them up a bit ( very little flash on these beauties). Then a light spray with camouflage Khaki paint rsz_img_4696
    Then I blotched on some 403.5 and 403.3 chalk with some alcohol. Then I added some random highlights of light grey and tan CA. At this point it should look awful.rsz_img_4697
    Now wait until dry.
  • kebmokebmo
    patience grasshoppah.....
  • Joel
    edited June 2019
    Gotta build up the suspense.... So now the mess is dry.rsz_img_4698
    Now I use something I have always been told to stay away from - black chalk. Scrape a small pile on the glass tabletop and then dip a brush in alcohol and then just a touch of black chalk, swirl on the glas to mix and draw it along the casting in the direction of the grain. This fills the cracks with black and smooths out the blotchiness. On;y pass once or twice and very lightly otherwise you will get rid of all the chalk from yesterday and lose the colour variation.rsz_img_4699

  • Robert.GRobert.G
    That's why I seal the layers in between with super mat very diluted acrylic varnish. Then I can put on a glaze of very diluted black oil paint (from a tube) without , like you say, ruin the previous layers. But I think I've said this before.. Anyway, you've got a great undertone to start on..
  • KKarnsKKarns
    Man that looks like crapola!...just the way we like it!
  • Joel
    Ok nice and dry. Now I take chalk and highlight some of the ridges. I used to use the normal chalk sticks but it was really soft and often filled in the grain. I tried compressed chalk sticks but had some trouble controlling where the streaks went. Then at Robert's suggestion I went out and bought coloured chalk pencils.rsz_img_4700
    I gently highlight some of the areas.rsz_img_4701
    rsz_img_4703
    And it looks pretty good, particularly if you are a foot back or so. But if you have $2 to spare you can buy an artist's stumprsz_img_4705
    And it is easy to blend the harsh highlights in. Because I have not sealed the previous coats the colours minbgle and I get lighter shades of gray and tan.rsz_img_4707
    rsz_img_4708
    rsz_img_4706
    Now I just have to paint the cast on details and I'm done. Pretty easy and all non toxic and reversible except the initial primer.
  • Robert.GRobert.G
    Looking mighty good , that wood !!
  • WesWes
    Thanks for taking the time to document the procedure Joel.

    Results are pretty darn good
  • kebmokebmo
    edited June 2019
    i just ordered a small set of pastel pencils and some stumps/tortillions... thanks for the great tip!
  • Joel
    edited June 2019
    No problem and Kevin thank Robert - it's his tip. Back to work. Made a few paint cans. I used thinner wire that in the kit for a more prototypical look and also to walk than fine line near the edge of insanity. I've used magnet wire but the paint sometime flakes off so this time I used .006 brass wire from the hobby shop. bent the handles around my artist stump and then bent the little right angles with my forceps, then blackened:rsz_img_4762
    Then I drilled #80 holes on each side of each paint can and gently inserted the wire handle so they actually move like the real ones:rsz_img_4763

    Now for some weathering and they are all set to go. I tried a small dab of silver where the handles meet the can to represent the joint ofetn seen on these old cans but it is really hard to make it circular and realistic.
  • Robert.GRobert.G
    Joel, your detailing outruns the printing.
  • kebmokebmo
    wow.
    thanks robert, they came yesterday.
  • CarlLaskeyCarlLaskey
    Joel. You have to get some paint to run down the side of the can. .........Carl...........
  • Joel
    Hey Carl, don't worry I'm on it. Also need to dirty it up a bit and smudge the label. First things first.
  • Jerry
    Very nice Joel. Your doing some great detail work.

    Jerry
  • EricMGEricMG
    As a side note. Back then paint was pretty darn expensive and not many people would leave a can open unless they were using it. I painted professionally for 10 years, and I've never seen anyone not stick the lid on quickly. We always poured into tin buckets and painted out of them. Just sayin'!
  • Joel
    Eric and Robert, judging the printing is not quite fair as I used a macro lens and the paint can only stands 1/8 tall. Also it's inside in a cabinet so not even very visible. I hope to muddy it up a bit and close the can. More later.
  • Joel
    While I ponder the placement of castings on the left wall I built the back door. I felt it might sag without bracing so I added a typical "Z"rsz_img_4768
    rsz_img_4767
    I'll rust the hinges more when they are installed.
  • CarlLaskeyCarlLaskey
    Joel. That is one weathered door i am sure that it will sag. .......Carl..........
  • Robert.GRobert.G
    Very nice color Joel ! Perhaps you can make the color towards the end of the planks below somewhat lighter. At least on the outside . This is a typical aspect due to the rain. ( well here in Europe )

    The sign is well done aswel. Add some downward rust streaks coming from it on the wood. That will integrate this sign more on the door. ( just my thoughts)

    Anyway, love what you're doing with this kit.
  • KKarnsKKarns
    Mighty fine modeling Joel. Love the hinges and details.
Sign In or Register to comment.