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- 955 All Categories
- 3 Picture Posting and Resizing
- 56 New Member Introductions
- 115 Off-Topic Forum
- 4 Photography
- 2 Resources
- 16 New Product Information
- 167 The SierraWest Forum
- 9 Brett's Blog
- 119 General News & Ramblings
- 3 Re-Release Information
- 6 Q & A about SierraWest
- 9 What Would You Like to See?
- 384 Builds
- 140 HO Scale Builds
- 165 O Scale Builds
- 60 Finished SW Build Pics
- 14 Miscellaneous Builds
- 190 Techniques
- 19 Working with Wood
- 20 Painting Castings
- 5 Masonry
- 23 Scenery
- 37 Tools and Supplies
- 21 Layout Planning & Building
- 40 Miscellaneous
- 24 Prototype Information
- 22 Reference and Research
Comments
Yours, as I said, is incredible.
Appreciate that Karl, really like many of the updates and differences between the two versions. Your wood treatment and coloring on the O Scale Barn was genius, as the entire pilot model is. Gleened many ideas and inspiration from that pictorial.
Thanks Brett, hard to believe this kit is 22 years old...would be light years above anything else on the market if it was new off the shelf today!
the wood looks like the old barn down the street!
Hey Dustin...nice heraing from you and appreciate that.
Thanks Steve. The patch work was taken from both the Loco and Service Shops build and O'Neills where Brett outlines this type of patch and repair quite nicely. The Loco Shop in particular as the roof is quite similar to BlueSky's Barn roof with the battens.
Appreciate your critique Joel. I was concerned with how dark it was but has since grown on me and have seen many barns that have weathered dark like this.
Geezerbill
Textbook stuff, my man!
What a way to start my monday morning at work. Brilliant modelling bud.
I have to agree Joel. As I was staining the wood I thought although they were definitely grey just not what I wanted. As I darkened them up the look got better. So to answer your question...I started out just staining with multiple coats of AI until I got the color I wanted. Then detailed the wood and applied a concentrated AI on certian areas mostly to the board ends, knot hole areas, etc. with a detail brush. Then finished up with the chalks, again not over the entire board just strategic areas.
Hey Bill, thanks much...and board-on-board rules the day for sure.
Wes...what up buddy!...no way, you have a bad history of shipping and BlueSky!, they would be watching for it...Always nice to hear from ya and thanks.
Hi Phil, hopefully the traveling is slowing down a bit for you...and thanks for your thoughts here...I'm still tickled to be able to build this first kit of Bretts...birthed over 22 years ago!...love it...
When called for in the manual, Brett supplies nice NBWs in the kits. If I'm adding extra details to me dioramas, I'll use NBWs from various sources...I'll send you a PM here shortly.
I decided to post a much overdue update on my BlueSky build progress. I have been working on the Office portion of the Office and Dry Goods Store complex. I went off the reservation just a bit and constructed the sub-roof out of stripwood so I could have missing pieces of roof material and have the sub-roof visible. In addition, I wanted an older style of tar paper I have seen that is put down with heat and ends up "hugging" the roof more than the tar paper we see today. It also has a bit of a dull sheen like real tar coating. I accomplished this by using a thin tissue paper that I spray painted black. I am then going back and carefully peel uo the front edge here and there and tearing off bits and then wetahering to look like damaged and worn areas. You'll see a couple in the pictures, but not done with the final detailing yet.
Good one Ed and thanks.
Great Kevin...thanks, and nice seeing you jumping in here!
Alan, I just coated the back of each strip with slightly watered down Elmers and then smoothed out the paper with my fingers to pick up all the surface texture. Tedious as the tissue paper wants to curl when the glue gets on the back. You can go with applying the glue to the roof first but I didn't particularly like that method myself.
Karl.A
I like your tar paper roof Ken. This one looks functional and will stop leaks.
Appreciate it Stephen...
Alan, I didn't use anything to fill in the joints. The chimney casting is so highly detailed but of course small that I felt any "material" added to the joints would take away from the detail. So, I primed the casting with an enamel from a spray can and let that CURE. I then came back with my SWSM/Reaper #29835 "Dirty Grey" lightened with a bit of white and painted the casting joints and then went over it with a moist swab removing most of the grey from the brick faces. The slight grey hue left on the bricks served to make the transition very subtile. When all dry I dusted very lightly with black chalk, almost like dry brushing, over the whole thing.
Thanks Bill...it was good experiment with the type of paper I used. Almost called you regarding how you did your Quicny Barn tar paper as I believe it was a similar method or close?? This one seems just a bit heavier...