Initially only sets will be for sale. I don't know when reaper will offer the sets. I will be selling the sets as soon as they are ready. Hopefully my customers will buy the sets from me. That was kinda the idea! Eventually reaper may decide to sell the colors individually but that is entirely their decision.
I hate when this happens, but I just thought of a color that would be great. Something for aged galvanizing. A flat gray is a great starting point, maybe reefer gray or an equivalent, but it needs to have a small amount of metallic sheen which we can dull or not as necessary. Most new galvanizing has a silver-ish sheen and can be bright if the galvanizer maintains his kettles properly, but I've seen plenty of steel newly galvanized have that flat gray metal look. I'll have to look at what Reaper has and dig out the color wheel and experiment.
Had a great meeting with Anne, Reapers paint specialist yesterday. My custom colors are finished. Really excited to start using them! All Reaper has left to finish the sets off is to pump and label the bottles. I Should have them for sale on my website sometime after the 25th of this month. Once I have my sample sets in hand I will post pictures, color listing, and pricing. Thanks for your support on this project. The response has been incredible!
I have already spent a few shekels on Reaper, including the metallics on the list of items recommended for your kits. I later followed up with a selection of blues, greens, grays reds and a couple of oranges and yellows, a bone, a sand, a white, and that Adamantium Black you hinted about for the oil stains on O'Neill's. I'd like to get the set but am wondering how much duplication I'll end up with? This stuff covers well and lasts a long time!
I see mostly yellow labels for high density pigments, where most of what I bought are white label "Core Colors" The white labels are brushable or sprayable, where the yellow labels seem to be formulated for brushing, similar to Vallejo's Model Color as opposed to Model Air, correct?
My set includes 30 of the "yellow label" HD (high density) paints. 12 of these are custom colors and are exclusive to the set. There are 6 metallics that are from the core color line (white label). The HD and core paints brush and spray extremely well. I prefer the HD paints for my specific techniques. The Reaper HD paints are VERY different compared to the vallejo brand. Vallejo paints are mixed with a vinyl pigment that becomes shiny when weathered is applied. (For example with chalks or creating peeling/chipping effects.)
Yeah we've discussed the vinyl issue, I was just using the two lines as a comparison of of types, Model color being brushable and Model Air being brush or spray. white label being brush or spray and HD being brushable. if you can brush or spray HD, that's even better
Speaking in the vein of never too many colors, might there be others in the future? If we should live long enough to use up one of the SW colors would we purchase refills from SW or Reaper? Now we need a set of SW brushes whose handles are SW castings complete with the SW new-resin odor...
Mike: Probably another set but no time frame. I will be selling individual paints in the future too. Don't hold your breath for brushes... Hah!
Marty: This is my set. I developed the color palette including my own colors. (Not Floquil or Reaper.) My set includes several HD paints as well that are exclusive. Reaper may sell the set in the future (will not be anytime soon) but I would expect the community would support me (and they have so far in a huge way... Thank You!) with the sale otherwise what incentive is there for me to spend my time and money to develop products like this?
I'm about to do an older SWSM kit that references old paints, is there a mapping from the old colours to the new ones?
Will your new kits only reference your paint pallette colours?
If I use up one colour, or otherwise destory it by accident, can one buy that individual colour?
BTW, did you know the Rustoeum Camo paints have changed? They apply thicker (x2) then the original. Did you consider providing a Reaper primer type black or brown to replace the Camo paints?
Marty, I will not be mapping out the old to new colors since there are so many craft paint alternatives available. I created the SW/reaper set in order to have a consistent reliable color palette available for my customers to use. I switched to craft paint several years ago but found the quality all over the place and severe difficulties in obtaining specific colors regionally. Thus I pursued creating my own paint set. I will be eventually be offering the paints individually as well. I will have to check the camp spray paint situation but we are so adaptable as modelers!
I had this experience with another kit manufacturer. Nice folks, nice stuff, but they recommended craft paint colors that I couldn't get locally, and some spray dye I had to mail order as the local art & craft stores didn't carry it. I've found online color charts unreliable. Having a standard palette is a great idea. I've been known to milk spray cans and spray the product with an airbrush if I can't get good results any other way.
If time eventually permits, a video on methods for working with these HD paints would be useful. Having never used Reaper before I'd be interested in knowing if there are any differences in the way these behave on different materials, e.g. wood vs. metal parts vs. the resin castings. I'd also be interested to know folks preferences for different types of brushes.
I used it for the first time last night. It performs a lot like Vallejo. Loads up in the brush nicely, spreads evenly, covers well. Brushes: Chisel tips, Filberts, 0, 00, 000. Brett had a nice list of brushes in the Loco & Service Shops manual. I tend to buy the higher quality brushes. They hold their shapes better, don't shed bristles, and just last longer. Hope that helps!
Mike, as for brushes, anything with Red Sable or Kaminsky sable. A #0,#1 and #2 size brushes hold paint longer. As for brand, I prefer Winsor & Newton Series 7 or Professional models, pricey though.
Mike, as for brushes, anything with Red Sable or Kaminsky sable. A #0,#1 and #2 size brushes hold paint longer. As for brand, I prefer Winsor & Newton Series 7 or Professional models, pricey though.
I've got a set of Series 7 brushes too. They're in my toolbox dedicated to casting painting along with the Valejo paints. Now I've got the SW paint set and need to reorganize. A good problem to have I suppose.
I remember a couple of the very first clinics that I attended - One was figure painting with Dave Revelia, the other was weathering details with Brett. This was at the first structure show in Mansfield MA in 2007. Dave had a method of using the Valejo paints where he would place a drop or two onto a palette of tin foil, add a few drops of water to the pigment and mix. He would load the brush but wipe off a little paint onto a rag. Not quite drybrushing but not a really wet brush either. He also suggested keeping brushes dedicated for whatever medium was used; not to use the same brush for solvent based and water based for example.
My set arrived yesterday. I had already invested in some Reaper colors and by some strange chance there were no duplicates in the set vs what I already had, except for the metallics. That's not a problem as I have a feeling they'll get used the most with the number of castings I have to do. The SW specific colors are great looking. I'm looking forward to trying them out.
Comments
Jerry
Jerry
But ill definately be keen on what you planning to release Brett. Sounds like yet another innovative first from Sierra West.
Keep us updated for sure.
Jerry
http://www.sierrawestscalemodels.com/supplies.shtml
I have already spent a few shekels on Reaper, including the metallics on the list of items recommended for your kits. I later followed up with a selection of blues, greens, grays reds and a couple of oranges and yellows, a bone, a sand, a white, and that Adamantium Black you hinted about for the oil stains on O'Neill's. I'd like to get the set but am wondering how much duplication I'll end up with? This stuff covers well and lasts a long time!
I see mostly yellow labels for high density pigments, where most of what I bought are white label "Core Colors" The white labels are brushable or sprayable, where the yellow labels seem to be formulated for brushing, similar to Vallejo's Model Color as opposed to Model Air, correct?
When will Reaper sell it?
Marty: This is my set. I developed the color palette including my own colors. (Not Floquil or Reaper.) My set includes several HD paints as well that are exclusive. Reaper may sell the set in the future (will not be anytime soon) but I would expect the community would support me (and they have so far in a huge way... Thank You!) with the sale otherwise what incentive is there for me to spend my time and money to develop products like this?
I'm about to do an older SWSM kit that references old paints, is there a mapping from the old colours to the new ones?
Will your new kits only reference your paint pallette colours?
If I use up one colour, or otherwise destory it by accident, can one buy that individual colour?
BTW, did you know the Rustoeum Camo paints have changed? They apply thicker (x2) then the original. Did you consider providing a Reaper primer type black or brown to replace the Camo paints?
Marty, I will not be mapping out the old to new colors since there are so many craft paint alternatives available. I created the SW/reaper set in order to have a consistent reliable color palette available for my customers to use. I switched to craft paint several years ago but found the quality all over the place and severe difficulties in obtaining specific colors regionally. Thus I pursued creating my own paint set. I will be eventually be offering the paints individually as well. I will have to check the camp spray paint situation but we are so adaptable as modelers!
I remember a couple of the very first clinics that I attended - One was figure painting with Dave Revelia, the other was weathering details with Brett. This was at the first structure show in Mansfield MA in 2007. Dave had a method of using the Valejo paints where he would place a drop or two onto a palette of tin foil, add a few drops of water to the pigment and mix. He would load the brush but wipe off a little paint onto a rag. Not quite drybrushing but not a really wet brush either. He also suggested keeping brushes dedicated for whatever medium was used; not to use the same brush for solvent based and water based for example.
Bad paint brushes are nothing but trouble.
-slim