Not at all. Just trying to help and support you. That's what the forum is about, if you need some guidance or assistance then there are plenty of us who have been there before you and are willing to help however we can.
The pipe wasn't cut yet but it was marked to length. The upright was merely slid onto the end. I simply laid it on the glued up engine waiting for the red valves to dry.
A lifetime ago I built Jennings Lumber by Scale Structures Ltd and the drive belts were chart tape....a colored tape (brown) about.032 thick and 3/32 wide and the non colored side was adhesive....seemed to work pretty well....you’ve got a great looking model BTW Terry
belts made from plastic envelopes - see instructions... the "curled thing" is the syphon tube - see instructions (brass wire) - google it and you can find out a ton of information what its prototype use was
Eric- I'm way late to the party on this thread, but just in case... I found a few close ups that I took which may be helpful:
These are some prototype photos that I used (mostly for color and weathering). Obviously, none are an exact match to the model being constructed but it gives you a feel for the machine:
The belts are made out of that "tyvek" material mentioned in the instructions. The easiest source is from a FedEx location. You want one of the flexible FedEx Pak envelopes (the tear and water resistant envelopes--NOT the padded or cardboard type):
I used a tan enamel based paint with a lot of thinner to color the material. Then, sliced thin strips (maybe 1/32" wide) long enough to go around the governor drive wheel and opposite pulley. Here's about a 1/2" piece close up:
I am pretty sure you had no idea of all the twists and turns your Double Cylinder Mill Engine kit build would take. I know I couldn't have foreseen it. But along the route others on the forum and Brett came through sharing their experiences of their build of the same kit with explanations and photos. Your tenacity and desire to get this accomplished has helped us all understand, with the help of other forum members, how to get these finely designed and cast detailed parts assembled into the fantastic model it was meant to be. Congratulations and thanks for not giving up. We have all learned something from your build.
Sorry guys! I was confused thinking everyone meant the BIG belts that run off the polished wheels. Chuck Doan send me maybe a dozen prototype photos. I'm in heaven. Look out weathering here we come!
An impressive build. Your determination has been rewarded to our delight. I am also impressed with the number of responses you received from forum members and Chuck Doan. This is a fantastic modelers forum.
What did you decide to use to create the small belts seen in these photos?
Eric....just FYI...the governor drive belt should not cross over itself.....it wouldn't last long in real life....I like the paint/patina of your engine....keep up the good work
Comments
That's what the forum is about, if you need some guidance or assistance then there are plenty of us who have been there before you and are willing to help however we can.
Karl.A
Happy birthday! Celebrate with a oyster and clam feast.
Later, Dave S Tucson, AZ
Beginning to look like you have this kit in tow. Looking mighty sweet.
Later, Dave S. Tucson, AZ
Terry
the "curled thing" is the syphon tube - see instructions (brass wire) - google it and you can find out a ton of information what its prototype use was
Jerry
I'm way late to the party on this thread, but just in case... I found a few close ups that I took which may be helpful:
These are some prototype photos that I used (mostly for color and weathering). Obviously, none are an exact match to the model being constructed but it gives you a feel for the machine:
I used a tan enamel based paint with a lot of thinner to color the material. Then, sliced thin strips (maybe 1/32" wide) long enough to go around the governor drive wheel and opposite pulley.
Here's about a 1/2" piece close up:
Jerry
Tyvek sliced extremely thin (about 1/32”)
I am pretty sure you had no idea of all the twists and turns your Double Cylinder Mill Engine kit build would take. I know I couldn't have foreseen it. But along the route others on the forum and Brett came through sharing their experiences of their build of the same kit with explanations and photos. Your tenacity and desire to get this accomplished has helped us all understand, with the help of other forum members, how to get these finely designed and cast detailed parts assembled into the fantastic model it was meant to be. Congratulations and thanks for not giving up. We have all learned something from your build.
Looking forward to seeing your next build unfold.
Later, Dave S. Tucson, AZ
What did you decide to use to create the small belts seen in these photos?
Later, Dave S.