Robert, the build is easy since much of the weathering is complete. It's really a lot of fun actually even if I don't read the instructions, I do look at the pictures!
Carl, the pickle mix is simply fine steel wool immersed in white vinegar for between 24 and longer hours. It will get browner and darker as time goes by. If it gets too dark, add more vinegar. But NOT your wife's prize balsamic that her beloved sister sent her from Italy!
Pickle mix must be in a plastic container as it will eat through a coffee can, drip out and it chemically STAINS all wood forever. Now I have to refinish the dining room hardwood floor says my wife Amanda (the room is 25 by 18 feet!). But she is correct. Those spots DO NOT come out.
I mist it on in a plastic spray bottle on big cardboard sheets. Ruined my studio rug with the overspray, but that's my room! But it will do 100s of Brett's sticks in minutes. Stir the sticks, spray again. Each coat gives a darker gray. Too much steel wool in the mix and it goes brown (add vinegar). But a friend bought a HUGE six foot trestle at a train show. 1000s of individual sticks beautifully crafted. Only issue? Raw yellowy wood, never stained. Enter pickle spray. It blew me away how good it came out. The few glue spots? Colored pencil. Build first, spray later. Actually, I spray first, build, then tune with colored pencils.
Can I glue the mylar between the two window frames? Seems more real that way.
On the main building no. since there is no interior it doesn't matter what the view from inside is. The double layers look very realistic from the outside the way I cut them. Pay close attention to the instructions (uh oh) as to which layer is glued on top... important.
Now on the welding shop the interior is visible so the mylar is indeed glued between like a sandwich. Looks good from both inside and out!
Eric, If I recall correctly didn't "Jane's world of aircraft" in the 1950's list your seaplane as an Italian design. Sorry, I don't recall the designer but it was ahead of its time. Bill
If you don't want to use nippers, it is very easy to cut the board ends this way: score across the face with a straight edge protecting the good part. Cut off two end boards as a guide. Turn over. Now with the two cut-off boards as a guide, align straight edge and cut through rest. I used an X-acto knife. Matter of 15 seconds.
This not to do. DO NOT COVER MYLAR WITH GLOSS MEDIUM! It seeped through the cut parts of each window and bonded the paper backing to the mylar. TOTAL mess! And then I used one of Amanda's favorite plates to soak it all in hopes of rescue. Second error. Wasn't drinking enough to lubricate the brain properly. Then used warm water. Mylar warped insanely. Just kept getting worse, but a Celt never quits. Photos soon.
Modeling rule 1a. There are NO MODELING SUPPLIES in the kitchen. Nothing good ever comes from raiding the kitchen.
Modeling rule 1b. Eric, Read the instructions... Nobody here, least of all me, expects you to follow them which is totally cool, but at least read them.
Thanks, guys. That delighted this Mainer. Once Amanda returns from the divorce lawyer, I'll see if she'll take some photos of all doors and windows in. I hated that plate!
Nice looking carpentry. Did u use different thicknesses of planks? Looks that way. I don't know if you did this on purpose , but I like the way the half open window tends to be hanging lower on the opposite side of the supporting stick.
btw, that's a killer car. Makes me feel 007 is around
Robert, I did use different size sticks as per Brett's instructions which I not only read but memorized. Both windows are out of plum because of being propped by a stick. Thank you for noticing!
007 did drive this exact same car except mine is a convertible.
Ken, I found this HO model I made in I believe 1977 or close. I just dusted it off, didn't change it, but was wondering if you might want to incorporate it into one of your masterpieces. You could improve it, of course.
Comments
Seabee Terry
Oh. oh, more Maine humor!
I mist it on in a plastic spray bottle on big cardboard sheets. Ruined my studio rug with the overspray, but that's my room! But it will do 100s of Brett's sticks in minutes. Stir the sticks, spray again. Each coat gives a darker gray. Too much steel wool in the mix and it goes brown (add vinegar). But a friend bought a HUGE six foot trestle at a train show. 1000s of individual sticks beautifully crafted. Only issue? Raw yellowy wood, never stained. Enter pickle spray. It blew me away how good it came out. The few glue spots? Colored pencil. Build first, spray later. Actually, I spray first, build, then tune with colored pencils.
Now on the welding shop the interior is visible so the mylar is indeed glued between like a sandwich. Looks good from both inside and out!
Keep at it, wood coloring looks great!
Terry
If I recall correctly didn't "Jane's world of aircraft" in the 1950's list your seaplane as an Italian design. Sorry, I don't recall the designer but it was ahead of its time.
Bill
The texture and weathering look great
This not to do. DO NOT COVER MYLAR WITH GLOSS MEDIUM! It seeped through the cut parts of each window and bonded the paper backing to the mylar. TOTAL mess! And then I used one of Amanda's favorite plates to soak it all in hopes of rescue. Second error. Wasn't drinking enough to lubricate the brain properly. Then used warm water. Mylar warped insanely. Just kept getting worse, but a Celt never quits. Photos soon.
Modeling rule 1b. Eric, Read the instructions... Nobody here, least of all me, expects you to follow them which is totally cool, but at least read them.
Terry
I don't know if you did this on purpose , but I like the way the half open window tends to be hanging lower on the opposite side of the supporting stick.
btw, that's a killer car. Makes me feel 007 is around
007 did drive this exact same car except mine is a convertible.