Personally I like the irregularities of the shakes....that’s how I would have done them ;-)) Maybe some dirty or rusty streaking under the wall vents in the tower...just a thought Terry
A little secret, which is mind-bending for painting bottles to look like glass and the final patina on the verdigris. A new Golden acrylic paint called iridescent silver green (fine). Also, wait until you see what I discovered for broken glass just by accident. See? Helps to have working artist around even if you do not care for his sense of humor.
I cut Brett's finial surround WAY smaller. Painted it copper, sprinkled on graphite powder, thin coat of the fancy green. Done. A matter of minutes if you guess correctly.
I actually cut the vents into the clapboards in the model. The carpenter would use a calk to fill that tight seam. Remember these guys built boats. The roof shakes vary in thickness so part of the row is correct and then they might line up incorrectly, but since tarpaper is used underneath, no big deal. Tower roofs around here are always in terrible condition because no one wants to go way up there on that steep a pitch. Not an easy job, like a church steeple.
I figure the vents are pretty new for 1956 and galvanized so no rust.
Eric....the Golden acrylic paint you mentioned...is that a brand name? I've been looking for 'Gallery' glass paint which I saw mentioned in one of the old threads..Citrus Yellow, Frost Root Beer, and Kelly Green for the painting of bottles, etc Terry
With Eric deviating from the original kit I thought it would be a good idea to remind everyone how I built the pilot model and the way O'Neills was originally designed. It is very interesting to see where Eric's build is heading and future design changes he makes...
Now that's an interesting thought. The out of the box proposed model is a fantastic guide; but I think it's even more fantastic if it makes people to be creative and make 'a' kit 'their' kit and way of building.
I do read the manual and it serves me as a general help how to put a kit together in a logical way. That's what a manual is for. Certainly for the more complicated ones. O'Neills, The Sawmill. You don't have to do the constructional thinking.
But besides that, I try to use techniques and 'recipes' that I am familiar with and give me satisfaction on the final result. I believe every modeler does that.
Just look into the gallery. No two are the same and practically every featured modeler has his own modeling identity. We're not sheep...
Brett, they don't look THAT different to me. My metal roofs are oversize at the moment until I decide what size to make them. My barn has a raised seam metal roof and each side goes the entire distance from top to bottom. Ice dams are only an issue with heated sections and unheated sections of a roof.
Seabee, I'm assuming a different application would be added to the overhang to prevent ice dams. The rust color is just quickly roughed in as is the entire structure. Once I assemble it all, I will begin to color it correctly as one unit. Easier for me that way. I do that in my art as well. I can very quickly rough it all in, then it takes weeks to gain the last percentage. I'm thinking gutters at the moment, but not sure if they should be cedar or copper. Any thoughts?
Brett, I thought it was against the rules to stick photos of your own work into another person's build thread? I suppose the rules do not apply to you. [Maine humor!]
And Seabee, I'm trying an old copper look on that last section of overhang. The roofs are all still loose. Might use copper to cover the top seam. What do you think?
Brett, do you make a water spigot that I can put by my wash tub? I'm an obsessive hand washer. It's from being a pool hustler. You look at any good shooter's hands, they are immaculate. One way to spot a hustler no matter how else he pretends to suck at pool.
Brett, I really cannot believe you removed my well thought out and carefully written comments, which I felt were very fair and true. THAT is simply too much censorship for my tastes. I'm an American after all and I love the idea of a fair exchange of opinions. I'm afraid I will be forced to abandon this thread, Good luck and modeling to all.
I removed comments both of us had made since they had nothing to do with your build. If you would like to start another thread that is fine. One of the main reasons people do not post on forums is the lack of continuity in threads. As owner/admin it is my responsibility to keep the threads on topic as much as I am able. Every forum will have comments deleted by the moderators and I delete way less than most! If you truly would like to abandon this thread please call me so we make sure we are on the same page. I have been trying to speak with you this morning but cannot reach you.
Comments
Maybe some dirty or rusty streaking under the wall vents in the tower...just a thought
Terry
I cut Brett's finial surround WAY smaller. Painted it copper, sprinkled on graphite powder, thin coat of the fancy green. Done. A matter of minutes if you guess correctly.
I figure the vents are pretty new for 1956 and galvanized so no rust.
Terry
Roofs!
Terry
I do read the manual and it serves me as a general help how to put a kit together in a logical way. That's what a manual is for. Certainly for the more complicated ones. O'Neills, The Sawmill. You don't have to do the constructional thinking.
But besides that, I try to use techniques and 'recipes' that I am familiar with and give me satisfaction on the final result. I believe every modeler does that.
Just look into the gallery. No two are the same and practically every featured modeler has his own modeling identity. We're not sheep...
Seabee, I'm assuming a different application would be added to the overhang to prevent ice dams. The rust color is just quickly roughed in as is the entire structure. Once I assemble it all, I will begin to color it correctly as one unit. Easier for me that way. I do that in my art as well. I can very quickly rough it all in, then it takes weeks to gain the last percentage. I'm thinking gutters at the moment, but not sure if they should be cedar or copper. Any thoughts?
Brett, I thought it was against the rules to stick photos of your own work into another person's build thread? I suppose the rules do not apply to you. [Maine humor!]
Terry