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Comments
Grunge and old go together.
Thanks Karl...we'll leave it at "old in modeling"
Appreciate that JP, I do give the basics a fair amount of attention, good or bad, that's for sure..
Right on Stephen...
This is a very fine mist, dead flat paint, excellent for this application. While the paint is dry and now curing, I turned my attention to detailing and trimming out the 3 freight door openings.
This is the rear door that has the split dock doors and track. Brett has you use the same wood used for the siding for the threshold sill. This is great as this wood is thick and perfect for a dock threshold, while the other trim is thinner...well thought out here. I sanded down and rounded the front edge of the threshold for all 3 doors. This would naturally occur over time from continuous use.
The right wall dock opening, note the tickness at the far left and how the wear has thinned out the section in the middle.
Right wall edge damage from loading and unloading freight and materials.
Right wall edge details...
Left wall...
The header of the right wall freight door opening that has the trim installed. After placing the trim I used a small brush and some diluted white glue and ran it along the top of the trim. I then took another small brush with chalk and brushed the chalk onto the area with the glue then blew off the excess. This gives the effect of dirt and grunge accumulation.
More later...
Terry
Build question--to what extent should the splits/cracks in the ends of abutting boards line up? I have seen quite a variation in this and wonder to what extent it happens with real boards (I have little direct access to prototype examples of this).
Thanks Bill, and I guess there is a bit of art to "the grunge"
Have to draw the line somewhere don't we Terry!...the honor is mine, to be knocking elbows with you guys.
I'll pass on the rat crapola Kevin...I will not bend under the peer pressure...
Thanks Ed. Working hard...hardly working...or something like that
Mike, there you go...that's why the women folk are way smarter than us.
The splits and cracks on the board ends would not necessarily line up as it would depend on the individual board grain, what type of wood was used, where the nails were put in, how much moisture each board had when it was put up etc...on the other hand, damage across boards of course would line up and areas of rot tend to involve more than one board. With the scale we are working in with The Foundry (1:87), the splits and such on board ends is very subtle unless magnified.
What can I say about Brett's laserboard windows and doors other than they are simply wonderful. So easy to work up and the look is amazing. remember when you review the pictures here that these windows and doors are not wood and are cut to such thin and exacting standards that the look is so prototypical. They take paint, chalk, and weathering just like wood...
Here are the split rear freight doors. I followed the manual and was a bit skeptical on the final step that calls for the scuffing of the doors with fine steel wool...not anymore! That step was the ah..ha moment...a little scuff and the doors look newer, more scuff and you age the door right in front of you...genius Brett.
I decided to see how much I could make the kick plates at the bottom of each door look like wood. These plates are installed separately so I was able to use my #11 and cut and create grain and nail holes in the laserboard. Nail holes are a bit strong but without magnification, they are perfect...you can just tell they are there. I finished off the weathering by applying a tiny amount of diluted white glue along the bottom ledges and brushed in dirt colored chalk to simulate accumulated dirt and debris.
This is the large single left wall freight door. I purposely varied the mix of paints to give it a bit darker shade than the split doors. This door is assembled just like the split doors with the front etched side glued to the base. It mounts on the inside of the left wall, open as you desire. Just remember if you open it too far you'll be able to see the lack of floor on the inside!...but hey, who wants to have very much of this beautifully designed door behind a wall!
The rear wall windows that are postioned on either side of the split freight doors. The lower sash is designed to fit from the inside tilted inward as desired. This will be done just before the walls are assembled so the wall can be laid flat for work on hanging the freight doors and track...
More later...Ken
Note the subtile nail holes and graining.
Reality Check! Just to show how small, thin, and to exact standards Brett's window materials are...
Terry
Hey Thanks Stephen...can't wait to get them "hung"...
Right Phil, I will try and do this throuhout the build and that's the enjoyment of Brett's kits, making them your own...
Glad the intermediate pictures and descriptions are helpful. I like to vary the colours used within a determined pallate. The glass pane cleaned by hand detail you mention is a good one and one I have used previously and may do here based on your suggestion. This detail can be added at anytime so I'll see how it goes together and what areas are the most visible.
Very nicely done my friend, great modelling.
Karl.A
Appreciate that Vince, and nice to see you following along here.
Jerry
You are doing a super job Ken. Thanks for taking all that time in posting.
Jerry, thanks much and next to the stripwood detailing, one of my favorite things to work on. So much you can do to individualize the build by working with the windows and doors.
Appreciate that Robert and you have intuitive insight regarding the smaller details. As more and more small details come together they make a significant impact on the look and "feel" of the entire diorama. I love doing the details that are tucked in behind things that a viewer would only see if they peeked behind a barrel or behind a door, etc...
Hey Mike, good point...this forum not only brings great modelers together but we motivate each other to do out best work. I'm the same way...I'll get a bit off modeling and then I'll see someones post and I'm all fired up again!
Now I'm wondering if I can use a thin copper strand from flex wire and a touch of solder to mimic a 1/87 padlock when we chain a set of doors closed.