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Comments
Detailed and installed the killer Swing Beam Crane
Attached the quarter round vent to the back wall
Painted and installed the awesome brick and motor chimney
Rusted and detailed the stack for the brick chimney
Detailed and installed a hanging light
Installed the oil delivery pipe
View of the Swing Beam Crane. I decided to have mine slightly swung towards the dock that will be below the craen. What an amazing little detail...
View of the chimney, stack, light, and oil delivery pipe. Note the "steel" support strap on the chimney. I made mine a scale 6 inches wide, but I think it's a bit too wide. I may try and remove it and put on a thinner one...it's made of paper so might have to go with it as it may leave a bit of residue from the glue...
Something to point out here. If you glue the chimney to the wall and leave it at that, you will be left with a very straight line where the chimney casting meets the wall. What would have been done was a mortar joint, which would have made the joint a bit uneven. I decided to simulate this by coloring Elmers glue with concrete paint and then using a fine pin to lay in the joint. When this was dry I dulled it with chalk. This process was a bit tedious but turned out good.
Also, note the hanging light. I dished out the underside and added an Epoxy "light bulb" and the wall beasel.
A sort of view of the quarter round vent...more later...Ken
Maybe it does not show up in person but there seems to be a difference in color in the pictures between the side walls and the end walls. What I would call the end walls appear a little darker and maybe you can blend the weathering into the long walls for a better match. Maybe there is less texture on the dark walls to make them easier to pull out of the mold and that is what I am seeing. I would assume it is easier to make the light wall darker than the opposite. Then again to the naked eye it might just be one of those photography details that I do not fully comprehend.
Ken - outstanding! Home stretch now...
Mitch, purely the lighting. Hard to get both walls in the same light without a slight shadow. Here is a picture in sunlight that removed nearly all shadows and you can see the color is the same.
Appreciate that Brett...fun details to go...
George
Hey George, I appreciate that you notice the small details...
Once the three structures are glued together the two concrete docks are detailed and the Pattern Shop dock is glued to the structure. The Transfer Dock casting was detailed and installed later.
I wanted to try simulating 1:87 rebar following Bryan's lead on his O scale O'Neills crane pad. I used very fine solder wire and drilled appropriate holes in the corner of the Transfer Dock casting where Brett cast in a damaged corner. Results are hard to see but turned out OK...
Note the rebar sticking out of the damaged corner. Is that a killer concrete casting Brett came up with or what!
Close up of the added rebar...
Here's the Transfer Dock staged in position...the overhang to the left will butt up to the wood Pattern Shop rear dock installed later.
View of the Pattern Shop dock, this one has been permanently attached to the structure.
Detail work on the stove stack for the Office.
Someone had asked previously for a better shot of the Tempering Oven...hope this helps...
Terry
Very nice work, just amazing work
Jim
Thanks much for the kind words buddy and thanks for taking the time to comment regarding the posting of the build. I have done a few of the castings already but tend to work those up as needed for the individual scenes. I am working on the diorama base right now then the track which will be narrow gauge code 55 rail. More later...Ken
-Steve
I then cut, grain, and stain my ties from bulk stripwood I have on hand. I then glue the ties to the diorama base after the initial dirt colored base paint coat. I then cut my rail sections to a scale 35' which is close to prototypical. I spray paint the pre-weathered rail brown and then weather with chalks. I then construct rail joiners from vey thin styrene strip, paint and weather and add NBWs. I alternate the bolt head and nut and washer as prototypical and glue these in place. I then cut simulated rail spike heads from slightly flattened fine solder wire, blacken, and weather with chalks. Each tie then gets 4 rail spikes. All this is quite time consuming and a bit fiddly due to the small size of the components.
The ties and track just in view here with the 12 rail joiners made from scratch.
Close, close-up...note the alternating bolt head and nut/washer as prototypical.
You say you model HO/HOn3. I seem to have noticed too much standard gauge in your builds. It's time for some narrow gauge.