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Comments
Bryan
It looks great. Love the sheet metal patches and the finish on the pails is outstanding.
I'm nearing completion of the details included in part 1. I'll post some pics as I start grouping them together. If only there was another box of unfinished details somewhere...
Also, I noticed that O'Neills repairs cracked enging blocks so I fished one out of my spare parts bin and gave a heavy rust effect. I believe it was supposed to be an aircraft engine, but it will serve as a truck block here. I'm thinking about putting it on a pallet off in the weeds somewhere.
Can I ask a question and make a suggestion?
Karl.A
Firstly I assume that those 6 oval recesses in the last pic are supposed to represent the cylinders.... the engine is shown with the head removed? correct?
At a minimum I would paint within those recesses flat black to give the illusion of depth and a cavity, I would do this if the item were planned to be placed in weeds/etc where it was not too visible, but..., it will still give depth to the otherwise flat casting, even if it is hidden in weeds it will create the illusion.
If it were in a visible location, (and even if it really wasn't, just cos its me) I would drill out those cylinder cavities with a drill bit in a dremel and then paint the interior of the resulting holes black.
Again this giving an otherwise bland casting depth and reality.
Thirdly, in addition to, or even if neither of the previous two steps are taken.... an old engine block would be covered in old oil, at the least I would coat any recesses, deep areas, logical places in oily black, grimy black etc, just black. Yes it may be rusting away, but any old engine I've seen is mostly black and oily and leaking shit everywhere... at least on the bottom half. Not dry an dusty/rusty...
My thoughts
Karl.A
That would really elevate it and give it depth and a feeling of realism....
I'll work on it some more and see what I can come up with.
I like all Karl's suggestions.
However, you mentioned that the detail is possibly an aircraft engine and a bit of research confirms that it is fairly representative of the 12 cylinder Rolls Royce Merlin (or could be a Packard Merlin), but missing the supercharger and most of the peripherals (which Karl mentions) and with the end of the crank shaft lopped off. Consequently the entire engine and all the covers (cam boxes, crank case, sump, etc.) would be aluminum. Therefore no rust!
The oval holes are actually the exhaust ports - six on each side. The air/fuel intakes were nested inside the vee under the long cast aluminum air flow channels.
In my opinion the block (and therefore stroke and bore) is too small to represent the typical big vee-twelve diesel so I suggest that you go ahead as planned with your rusted scrap engine theme (which I like) but detail the surrounding weeds, or whatever, to largely mask the size of the engine compared with any item close by that provides a comparative measure of size/scale (example: brake wheel, car wheel, etc.). That way the original detail cannot be identified for what it was supposed to represent.
Karl.A
I'm debating the final layout of the diorama along with how to mount the light switches and battery packs. I believe I will be adding a couple of inches to the size. Around 16x18 or 16x20. I have a few extra elements I want to add and the extra space will help. I'm also strongly considering an acrylic case to cover the dio. You can have custom cases made...for a price.
It always amazes me how you find more and more detail in Brett's castings as you are painting them, they never disappoint.
Karl.A
I believe I have picked out the base for the diorama. Here you see a 16x20 unfinished frame with a piece of Gatorboard in it. There is a 3/8" lip to the top of the frame. Underneath there is plenty of room for wires, etc. And the face of the frame is wide enough to mount switches for the lights. Overall, this meets my needs. I may or may not lay the structure directly on the gatorboard. I'm thinking about using 2 layers of foam core board to make the "ground" level with the frame. Gluing the foam core to the Gator will keep it from warping. If I use 1/2" foam as seen here, it sits above the frame.
A front and back pic shows the overall working size. The cardboard mockups are the size of the corrugated Dueling Shack and an outhouse. Once I start playing around with the placement of the castings I'll decide whether to include these additional structures. I'll have some extra room to work with inside this frame.
I'm leaning towards a dark stain for the frame...like a walnut...with no distracting finishes or weathering. As discussed earlier, I am also leaning towards an acrylic cover which would be the size of the frame.
Terry
I have noticed that a number of workbench photos reveal completed kits mounted in this manner on shelves. I'm a bit curious about this type of presentation. Is it motivated by the ability to present the "display" at a show for judging; to keep the kit on the sideline until a layout is built; or is it a simple recognition that the hobby can be in the satisfaction of completing a well-done kit. I'm sure there are a multitude of answers, including just building Sierra West dioramas.
Collectively, What motivates the forum members?
I have also found over the years that I get more enjoyment out of building kits than running trains. I may do more like this in the future.
I'll be taking it out of the frame for the groundwork so I don't mess the frame up. A big decision is which way to orient the structure. I'm leaning towards having the front of the building along the long edge. I like this way because you get a closer look into the workshop from the edge of the dio. But I think the outbuildings look better when the front of the structure is along the short edge. Anyone have thoughts on orientation?