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Another O Scale O'Neills

Joel
in O Scale Builds
Well here we go. Been out of the game too long and itching to get back in. I've been waiting for some time to devote to this masterpiece but now realize it ain't never gonna come so I'm going to start this anyways and slowly make my way through it. I read through the instructions and am very excited about trying some of these new techniques. Today I went out and bought some craft paint (still can't find the "Bluegrass" for the trim. I spray painted the concrete castings so I am officially started. Also I've started this thread so now I am committed to build one of the most stunningly detailed models ever produced. I realize there are other threads out there so feel free to follow any or all of them. Off to distress a few dozen boards.
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Comments

  • Karl.AKarl.A
    edited August 2017
    Really looking forward to following this build Joel.
    Incredible kit coupled with an outstanding modeler, couldn't ask for more.

    Karl.A
  • adminadmin
    Gonna be awesome to see you bring O'Neills to life!
  • Joel
    OK here's those casting I spray painted black. An important step because I promised myself that I love the look of this kit so much I want to follow the directions explicitly.IMG_2010
  • Joel
    Today is wood distressing day. Got all my tools out and a disposable wood surface to scratch away at. You can see the various wire brushes I use. I try not to stick to the same to get variety. I never use a razor saw as the grooves are always too even and pull focus.IMG_2004
  • KKarnsKKarns
    Great news Joel! I'm really looking forward to see what you do with O'Neills and so nice to see you posting your work...we are all in for a great ride here!
  • nextceonextceo
    Thanks for the build thread...will be following along.

    Here is a link...if this isn't allowed, please take down...for the paint that the instructions reference...

    http://www.hobbylobby.com/Crafts-Hobbies/Stencils-Craft-Paints/Acrylic-Craft-Paints/Bluegrass-Green-2-ounces-Americana-Acrylic-Paint/p/7583

    Alan
  • Joel
    Hey Ed sorry about not answering right away. I guess I thought you were being facetious with this being a modelling thread. Well I did the first step according to the directions. Small change to step two. I tend to accentuate the grain with a dull blade before adding the knotholes. Then I put them in spots where I feel they fit in with the grain. I do this on each piece. That way I avoid having the grain go through the knothole (most times anyways.

    This weekend I can get to " Damp Brushing" and hopefully start building next week. Very exciting.
  • Joel
    Here's a few boards I've added some colour to. Quite pleased. A few were a bit too light so I gave them a quick wash of alcohol and asphaltum (an acrylic aging liquid sold in Lowes this actually set the chalk so they were easier to handle and gave me a nice variety. I wanted the boards a bit dark as contrast to the Ivory paint to come.)IMG_2017
  • Karl.AKarl.A
    Looking great Joel, personally I love all the first steps and the 'prep' work as this is what starts the foundation for the finish look.

    Can't wait to see your next steps. I haven't done it yet so I'll be looking forward to following you.

    Karl. A
  • adminadmin
    That coloration is going to provide an excellent base for the next step!
  • KKarnsKKarns
    Great coloring and wood detail. I'm with you on the graining first followed by the knot holes.
  • Joel
    Well I tried the "damp brushing" technique and am quite pleased with the results. A few boards were not quite consistent so I strategically brushed them again. Also I found those that I had "fixed" with the acrylic wash the ivory stayed a bit brighter as the chalk didn't affect the ivory paint as much. I went back and re-brushed a few of those and had some nice variation in colour. For the Bluegrass green I damp brushed and then made a second mix of paint with more white in it and dry brushed on top to give a bit more variety and depth. Over all I don't know if I love the effect more than the resist and peel method but I completed all the strip wood in 45mins when I would have completed 10 boards doing the resist. I will now go through the stripwood and pick out the best pieces to use on the front of the building.
  • Joel
    rsz_dsc_0966
    rsz_img_2021
  • Joel
    Not that I want to derail my own thread but I think the problem is my camera is too good ( my photography skills suck but still...). with the naked eye these boards look great and even with the macro lens they look pretty good. I think I should be modelling for the eye not for the photos but I am torn.
  • adminadmin
    I love your ivory boards. They are going to look incredible. My only concern is the trim color. It is designed to be a blue-green but the pic posted is almost an electric blue.
  • nextceonextceo
    Nice wood man!
  • Slimjerkins
    Joel said:

    Not that I want to derail my own thread but I think the problem is my camera is too good ( my photography skills suck but still...). with the naked eye these boards look great and even with the macro lens they look pretty good. I think I should be modelling for the eye not for the photos but I am torn.

    Nothing like taking a a good, sharp photo and zooming in on it to find the flaws. Especially when it comes to painting detail castings.

    Bill S.

  • Karl.AKarl.A
    Those ivory boards looks great Joel, such a good peel effect you have achieved with this method.
    The blue boards instantly reminded me of my boards on a front wall I built once, and that turned out great. I like the way they are less peeled than the ivory boards and I'm sure the blue isn't as stark in person, plus, once its further weathered and toned down it will look different.

    In regards to your other comment, 99% I model for the camera, mainly because no-one will ever see it in person, only in a close up picture on a screen.

    Karl.A
  • Joel
    Well a good days work (after a long days work). i lined all the windows and doors and completed one wall. I used a tiny needle to make nail holes so most are invisible but you get an impression of them at certain angles. I'll probably hit a few with chalk or rust but I want to see how things come together first. rsz_img_2029
  • Joel
    I realize the picture looks like the boards on the left are a different colour but that's the lighting ( I told you I was a terrible photographer). The middle area is indicative of the true appearance.
  • Karl.AKarl.A
    edited August 2017
    Looks fantastic Joel.
    Nice tight joints on the window trim and great board selection on the walls.
    Really nice variation in the peel effect but also great tonal differences in the underlying wood colour, came together beautifully.

    Yes, I see what you mean about the lighting, however, the 'yellow' light is also visible on the manual below the illuminated boards, this does not detract from a great wall.

    Karl.A
  • MuddyCreekRRMuddyCreekRR
    Looking great Joel...I have been trying to get back in the shop to get my build back on track...and your work has made me more anxious to get going again.....
  • Karl.AKarl.A
    Nothing wrong with the photography, crisp, clean and focused on the crisp, clean, dirty modeling.

    Switch out that 'yellow' bulb and any others you work under with 75 or 100W daylight bulbs, you'll be so much happier.... both working under them and with the pictures you take.

    Once again though, that wall is superb.

    Karl.A
  • KKarnsKKarns
    I agree with Karl that wall is fantastic and a great start to a great build Joel. Following closely...
  • Joel
    Well I chickened out and redid all the trim in olive green. I tried multiple shades of the "teal"ish blue and tried adding more and more but I really wasn't satisfied. Hope it doesn't throw the balance of colour off too much. rsz_img_2035
  • Joel
    edited September 2017
    Today I did the trim on all 4 walls and completed the front wall. Karl I try to make the joints as tight as possible and still show the boards as individual. My secret (if anyone cares) is I don't measure off the plans but measure off the actual model and then add about 1/64th and then use the true sander to slowly approach the right size. This is particularly important with the headers as the sides of the doors and windows are ever so slightly bigger than the intended dimension (not sure if that is because of humidity changes or what). As far as my work flow goes I deviate slightly from the manual. If anyone has followed my builds before you know I save the stripwood end pieces for special places. Not sure why but the process of Brett cutting the strip wood leaves a slightly rougher board end than I can achieve with my wire brushes. So I use these pieces to but ends or to line the bottom of the wall on important walls. So I jumped right to the front wall and used almost all my "best" strip wood and board ends. The other pieces are more than acceptable but these are the ones that by luck have turned out best. Sop I try to fit the bottom pieces that need to be finished on both ends right to the model. Cut the piece - finish the ends, stain them and then glue in place. All the overhang is on the top edge. I also run a little A+I along the bottom edge and let it wick up. Really pleased with the Knothole on the second board from the left.

  • Joel
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  • mikemettelka
    Looking good!
  • brownbr
    Looks good. Thanks for the commentary. Always good to see the thought process behind the construction.
  • adminadmin
    Loving the peeling paint - I think the olive was a good move.
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