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Gluing craftsman kits

nberrington
edited June 2011 in Tools and Supplies
Having spent my modelling life soldering brass, or gluing PVC with MEK (I model mostly British outline), wooden kits are a bit of mystery. Now I know it's nothing new to most North American modellers.
So - how does one glue these kits together - I assume cyano is a bit of overkill?

Regards

Neil B, the newbie to all this
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Comments

  • BillBill
    edited June 2011
    Hi Neil and welcome aboard!
    I think superglue is overkill for most of the building process. A lot of us use some type of waterproof glue. Titebond III is a good one. Elmer's makes a waterproof carpenter's glue as well.
    It needs to be waterproof so that when you weather the wood with waterbased paints or different washes, the glue won't break down.
    I use Formula 560 Canopy glue most of the time. It looks a lot like regular Elmer's white glue, but it's thicker and it's waterproof but mostly becuase because it sets up quicker. You can find it at most hobby shops and online:
    http://www.amazon.com/ZAP-Formula-560-Canopy-Glue/dp/B0006O8EVM
  • toddmc09toddmc09
    Hi Neil,
    I use Aileen's Tacky glue, Formula 560, and CA for some metals, as well as Titebond III, these all come into play, but I use the Aileen's I get at Michal's arts and craft stores the most. Clear drying is always good. I like the Aileen's because I can still position the pieces a bit before it sets up. I love the Formula 560 for windows, although on Brett's kits I tam going to try to use the clear window material sheets that come in the kits.

    Todd
  • Karl.AKarl.A
    edited June 2011
    Generally I always use just regular wood glue.

    When I'm feeling impatient, (most of the time) I'll add a drop or two of 'cyano....' to instantly hold larger things together, (like walls or roofs) while the wood glue is curing. I find this much better for me personally than physically holding things together for ten minutes while the wood glue dries. Especially on a 24 or 48 build.

    It takes a good prolonged soaking of regular wood glue to disolve and break a bond after it has fully cured. I use this method when scratch building repetative parts, such as corbels to separate them.
    But, I've rarely had a problem with things de-glueing due to simple weathering and washes.

    Remember, water RESISTANT is different to water PROOF, soak/wet it long enough and it will come apart, dependant on the glue used, but that will take alot of moisture.

    The best advice I can give is to use the recommended glues in the manual. Those specific methods and products have been tried and tested over many years, by many modellers, with consistantly excellent and dependable results.

    Karl.A
  • AlanGAlanG
    Hi Neil
    I live in the UK and have always used Anita's Tacky Glue obtained from Hobbycraft or The Range - both have stores all over the place. It comes in a very handy dispenser and grabs within a couple of minutes and dries clear. It's always a problem to overcome the description in the States to actually find what is meant or obtainable over this side of the pond - Isopropyl Alcohol was one that used to defeat me until l went into the chemist and he just said oh you mean what we call Surgical Spirit - l still don't know for sure if it's correct but the main thing is it works with the chalks etc!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    Alan
  • camdcm
    I use alcohol to dissolve the Elmer and wood glues. It works pretty quickly and doesn't seem to affect the wood and paint. As for glues, I've found that the Titebond dark wood glue is great for gluing pre-stained wood pieces. It also works great to make "tar" beadings around smokejacks and chimneys. No painting required once it has dried. Sorry, I'm away from my workbench or I'd send some photos as examples.
  • jas
    Scotch Quick Dry Adhesive is my glue of choice! It is low cost ($3 or $4) and easily found at most home centers. Dries Clear, acid free, tacks very well, nice applicator tip, and is bulletproof. If you try it you will see.image
  • Rychwa
    edited April 2012
    Hello everyone,
    Just started building Crafty kits, but I've got lots of glue (super glue gel, 560, micro glaze, and blar blar blar) but this is my favorite. image

    My wife says that when my glue collection catches up to my paint collection i,m in trouble... lol

    Happy building
  • brownbr
    I use the gorilla wood glue also. It works great.
  • wabbit
    I USE A FAST DRYING WHITE GLUE I SHIP IN FROM AUSTRALIA CALLED RAPI-BOND.
    BEEN USING IT FOR OVER 10YRS WITH GREAT RESULTS.
  • djdutch
    Is there someone over here who has some experience with Aleene's wood glue ?
    It says: super strong, heat and water resistant would this be a good glue for a sierra west kit ?

    DJ
  • adminadmin
    I have used elmer's weatherproof wood glue (name has changed so many times) for over 25 years so that's what I recommend. It has never let me down.
  • djdutch
    Brett I know, but for now Elmer's glue is a hard to find item in the Netherlands and I found the Aleene's wood glue so I thought that it might be a good replacement. So I thought there maybe was someone who had some experience with it.

    DJ
  • adminadmin
    The bane of the overseas modeler for sure, sourcing supplies. If you try the Aleene's please let us know how it worked for you!
  • Ojaste
    I have used the Tacky glue and did a good job holding. Is Aleene's wood glue waterproof and stainable? If so you should be ok.

    Marty
  • sdrees
    I also have used the Aleene's Tacky glue. I liked it because it sets up fast, but living in the desert, in the summer, it set up to fast for me. I have not had any problems with it during staining process, painting etc. It worked better for me than the Aleene's wood glue. I now use the glue from Northeastern Scale Lumber, their Flamingo Glue. It sets up fast, and no problems with stain etc.

    Steve
  • MikeMMikeM
    Never used the stuff myself but found references online that say Aleene's Wood Glue is sandable, paintable and water resistant. Note that is not the same thing as waterproof so far as I know. Try it on some wood scraps and see if you like it, then let us know your results.
  • djdutch
    Thanks Brett, Marty, steve and mike for all the comments.
    Sometimes its really hard to find a product on this side of the pound.

    I tried Aleene's tacky but I found that the consistency of the glue is to thick and sets up to fast, but I like it for scenery.

    what is the difference between waterproof and water resistant ?

    After more search on the web I found this: http://www.silverlinetools-shop.nl/p/42316:c:3325_3326_3327/elmers/elmers-lijmen/houtlijmen/houtlijm-max-118-ml/
    Its waterproof and stainable, but is it the same as brett mentioned in his manuals.
    It says that the glue contains wood fibers ?

    DJ
  • Ojaste
    Thats the same glue i've been using.
  • adminadmin
    DJ - Yep, that's what they are calling it now... and what I currently have on the shelf. Elmer's changes the name every few years but it seems to still basically be the same stuff over the years however.
  • MikeMMikeM
    Someone correct me if I'm wrong in this case but water resistant means the glue can stand up to some degree of brief exposure to water (i.e. while using paints with water as their solvent) while waterproof means you could submerge the joint and the glue will not dissolve. http://www.ask.com/question/what-is-the-difference-between-waterproof-and-water-resistant
  • djdutch
    Thanks Marty and Brett.

    Mike I think I know what you mean so never use it for balasting that you maybe want to chance

    DJ
  • JohnMJohnM
    Hi Neil and welcome aboard. Please be active and show us what you are doing. I am on my first "build" and profiting greatly herein.

    I have three brass O scale train projects from the UK, only on of which I have begun. I also bought a substantial assortment of solders with various melt points and assorted fluxes.

    Respectfully,
    John
  • James
    love the gorilla wood glue- that's what I use for any wood bits- sets up nice and is really strong. but i don't like their ACC - takes forever to set up, even if it is the equivalent of "gap filler". For ACC nothing beats the P.M. Hansen products. But more and more I use 5 minute epoxy for allot of things- something Brett stresses in his white metal kits I notice.
  • nemmrrcnemmrrc
    Elliot turned me on to Titebond III for gluing wood. It is great.

    Jaime
  • CarlLaskeyCarlLaskey
    Elmers is the best see the test see it live.

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  • Mike EnglerMike Engler
    Like Bill in the first comment in this thread I've used Formula 560 Canopy Glue exclusively for at least 15 years. Not only for wood to wood, but plastic to wood or plastic or metal to anything. Even use it when epoxy is recommended. It dries quickly, never comes apart, is completely invisible when dry. Great for gluing metal and resin figures to any surface, and perfect for adhering figures and details to scenic materials. Hold in place for a few seconds and they stay put but are easily removed. All my models are in a climate controlled house all year and nothing has come apart when I didn't want it to.
  • kebmokebmo
    i just ran out of the 360. that's my mission for the day. get some more.
  • vinceg
    edited October 2021
    Another vote for Canopy Glue. As Mike Engler said, it works for anything. It even [aggravatingly] secures things to my glass work surface. Love the fast drying. And, as someone also mentioned, it works about as well as Micro Kristal Klear for windows. Ever since I saw a video with Doug Foscale using it, I've been hooked. (However, it appears Doug has moved to Aleene's Tacky Glue in more recent videos.)
  • kebmokebmo
    edited October 2021
    i bought a bottle of canopy 560 today. i intend to see if its a suitable substitute for 2-part epoxy. i'm going to try it on the bates tracks.
  • Pappy
    edited October 2021
    Zap 560 is what I use and have had no issues. I also like this glue because it's Flexible. If you encounter a structural wood problem, you can re-do the construction if you mess up to a point and adjust the problem area.
    Some glues once adhered to wood....20 min later you have to rip the wood apart and start over. I know, have been there and not fun.

    Aleene Tacky Glues do not work for me..just my opinion.

    Two part Loctite epoxy works great to secure metal castings to wooded walls and roofs.
    Just make sure you add a drop of black paint to the epoxy mixture to help avoid shinny glue that may squeeze out between the casting and mounting surface. Come back and add chalk to dull any glue.

    Foscale and Barmills I believe use different glue types to accommodate all their Flap board constructions.
    I'm not that big a fan on Flap sheet walls but getting better.

    Brett's kits are mainly board on board which I prefer and 560 works for me.
    Bottom line, use what Glue works best for you.. and experiment!

    I think I went a bit overboard...lol :smile:

    Pappy
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