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Comments
I think doors as worn as those would have a worn pattern under and around the handles and on the kick board at the bottom. If you were able to scrape away a few paint chips in that area, that would look cool.
Brian makes some excellent points on the doors, I think with those ideas they will look perfect to the wall.
Karl.A
i wasn't thinking of a christmas red....
more like a deep maroonish red. badly peeled.
I tell you guys from experience that when it comes to colors of the structures and the layout of same, Brett's kit design has gone through hours of research and trials. When he arrives at a color choice, it's not by accident but what works and conveys the purpose of the scene. My advise would be to use your imagination to make the kit your own but stay within a reasonable color palate of the intended, you won't go wrong. A good example is the green used for the trim on the main building of O'Neills. When I first saw the color I thought wow that's out there and not one I would have ever chosen, but once weathered properly and installed along side the cream peeling paint it looked fantastic! Brett nailed it as always, so trust the creator...my thoughts of course
and i stained the stripwood for the small addition. i added just a touch of gray to 9 or ten boards, but it's not evident.
and a bad close up:
i'm not gonna color the addition. sorry ed.... my pants keep falling down.
thoughts? suggestions?
Doors look just right, great interpretation of the ideas given to you with sweet execution,
they look aged, worn and well used, match the walls and blend perfectly.
Ken nailed it with his comment..... everything is planned, picked and agonized over in a SWSM kit for a long time before production.
colours materials, weathering, of each piece is done and maybe even redone several times to make the whole picture.
Yes, one individual 'thing' you may look at it on its own and think 'i'll change the colour', or weathering, and it may work for that 'individual thing'.
But, when you put it with the 'whole' is doesn't really 'fit'.
Thoughts, sugestions ? .....
follow the manual, do what it says, everything was planned and thought out to the smallest detail, the options were tried and the best was chosen.
Karl.A
heading down to the big city sunday for our grandson's 2nd birthday.....
I'll echo what the others have said...if you defer to the manual, it's one less thing that can go wrong. Brett has taken the risk and stress out of getting the color "correct". Especially when it's a bold color. I've had the exact same thought as Ken: "Boy, are you SURE about this color, Brett?" Each time, he's never been wrong.
Here are a handful of comments/suggestions from my vantage point:
-keep an eye on nail holes. (Both in size and the use of them--I'm a 'less is more' guy)
-chalk + castings almost always go together. Your fire extinguisher looks perfect; the red hose reel is too RED. A splash of raw umber chalk will work wonders on it.
-I'm a little concerned about the plywood on the door. It's probably prototypical and a common practice, but my eye was drawn to it right away. At first glance, would an ordinary viewer (a non-modeler) concluded without thinking 'they patched the door with plywood' or would they question,' what's going on here?'
Just something to think about. I'm the only one who said anything contrary about it, so take my input for what it's worth--an observation.
If it were me, I'd probably use a piece of corrugated metal as the patch. The reasons being, a) it's a unique object that viewers immediately understand b) the color of a piece of corrugated metal attracts far less attention and blends into the scene. It's there without screaming "look at me!"
I hope it's okay that I mentioned it. That's a little glimpse of my mindset as I go through as I build. The model tells the story so the builder won't have to.
good points all. i have already decided not to alter the color, so that's moot.
the plywood on the door is going to stay. this door will be "hidden" under the canopy and won't jump out at anybody so i'm not that concerned about anyone wondering what was up. i did hit the hose reel with additional chalk and it looks much better. that's for looking!
Thanks for the follow up and explanation. Glad to hear the plywood is staying and you've considered the final appearance. My intent is never to get someone to change something. Instead, I share my thought process in the hopes that it helps "visualize" all possibilities.
Lots of members here have helped me in the past and continue to do so today. Anyone who wants to become a better modeler, this is the right forum. Down the road, just make sure to repay the favor.
Maybe a slight smudge with some dark chalk on the hinges, just to define them..., or, maybe not, I'll leave that one up to you.
Karl.A
the manual says to glue the overhang to the rear wall and install the supports THEN detail the overhang. i'd like to detail the overhang first. is that going to create a problem down the road that i can't foresee?
never mind. i emailed brett and it took all of 15 minutes to get back to me. as i said to brett.... i gotta stop for the night because i can't bake the corrugated until the wife leaves for work in the morning.
i'm gonna cut some lilac branches and bring em in to kill the smell.....
i eyeballed a couple solid rust buildings a couple of miles from here and that's pretty much what they look like.
got the walls all ready for the big glue up. a daunting thought....
i decided i didn't want the repair on the overhang to be quite as drastic as depicted in the manual. i will add additional powders to it once its glued and vertical.
i'm pretty happy with the way they turned out, and i'm a little nervous about glueup, cuz i only have two hands and one of 'em sorta sucks... but i've got a four day weekend and i hope to get it glued up sometime in the next three days....
thoughts? critiques? ideas?
Thanks for sharing.