As you can see from the photo, I use many types of paint, Rembrandt soft pastels, Reaper acrylic paints, craft acrylic paints from Michaels and what ever other paint I may need.
The first step for me is to prime the castings with a spay paint. For wood items, I spray the castings with a earth tone color. For metal items, I will use a gray colored paint. In this case, I used an air brush.
I always use a piece of glass for my palette because it is so easy to cleanup. I just use a straight razor blade to scrape the glass.
On the left side of the glass are powders made from the soft pastels. In this case I used pastel numbers 408.3, 408.5, 408.7, various shades of raw umber, 231.3 a shade of yellow ochre. I use alcohol to mix with the powder to paint all the wood surfaces on the castings.
Then I use the acrylic paint to paint all the little details of the castings such as wood and metal barrels, various tools, cans, buckets, parts, etc
I will then use an A/I solution and go over the whole casting and then let the alcohol dry. I will then use various shades burnt sienna and add rust where I want it.
Once the casting is complete, I will then dust it with a light gray or earth tone to dull the colors so that none of them draws your attention.
This is only about a third of the castings. I am then going to add some castings to update the scene to sometime in the early 1950's. The vertical steam engine is going in the scrap heap and the boat will be powered by a diesel engine instead of sails and the steam engine. I am looking for more castings that are more marine oriented. I have a casting of an electric winch to go into the winch house.
Steve, I like your summary and this is probably the approach I need to take as I build each kit for my layout. Since I'm not creating dioramas for competitions, I don't know if I want to spend too much time agonizing over what color I paint each item in the casting. I love the look of your castings. Phil
Castings are looking great Steve, really natural diverse variations in the wood tones, lots of colour in the details but everything remains subtle. Also great definition between various items on the shelves, clean and sharp, yet blended together very nicely. Great work.
Thanks for taking the time to make you nice comments. I really appreciate it very much. This was my abbreviated tutorial of Karl's tutorial which I reviewed before starting this scope of work.
Karl's tutorial is a classic and has been utilized by many many award winning modelers! That's what I love about most swsm customers, they're not shy about giving credit where credit is due. Nothing worse than stealing another modelers ideas and techniques and making them "sound" like original ideas.
If you are interested in Karl's and many other great tutorials go here:
I have been working on all the loading dock and associated structure, overhead crane parts and the hoist house. here are some pictures of progress on the hoist house.
I have modified the front of the hoist house because I am going to install an electrical winch that will be seen through the front opening
I have been working on the fishing boat this past week. What I have done is add a prop and rudder to the boat. Also the cabin I made the walls out of 1/64" bass plywood and made several templates and wrapped it around and glued the plywood to them. The roof is 1/32" bass plywood.
One of the reasons the boat is in the repair yard is to get a new paint job.
The body of the boat, I primed it with light sea grey, and then painted white with an acrylic paint. Then I wire brushed the resin body. On the cabin, I spray painted with light sea grey and then dry brushed the walls.
Nicely done and I like theb partially painted hull, tells agreat story of a work in progress. Nice rustic and weathered apperance you created on the rest of the boat. The prop and rudder are awesome.
Thanks Ken, appreciate the comments. I think that it is very important to tell a story with your models. It makes the whole thing that much more interesting.
Stephen...love the outdoor plumbing! Nice touch to paint it the same siding color. Great work on the castings and really like the "dingy" collection. Love the motor on the skid...Dr. Grunge would have it looking all yucky and stuff....nicely done.
Hi Ken, My story on the motor is that it has been an overhauled engine with a Caterpillar yellow paint, ready to go into the fishing boat. I was going to have another engine, torn apart and with pieces on the floor and grungy looking with some mechanics working on it. I really appreciate your comments
Love the casting work you have done Steve, those beauties are going to make this structure come alive. The rust/chipping effects you have achieved look perfect. I like the hoist engine scenario.
The diorama is now taking shape after completing all the subassemblies and painting all the castings. The boat repair building has been mounted to the diorama, the siding from the mainline has been laid, the remainder of the scenery base has been place and now some of the detailed castings.
Comments
As you can see from the photo, I use many types of paint, Rembrandt soft pastels, Reaper acrylic paints, craft acrylic paints from Michaels and what ever other paint I may need.
The first step for me is to prime the castings with a spay paint. For wood items, I spray the castings with a earth tone color. For metal items, I will use a gray colored paint. In this case, I used an air brush.
I always use a piece of glass for my palette because it is so easy to cleanup. I just use a straight razor blade to scrape the glass.
On the left side of the glass are powders made from the soft pastels. In this case I used pastel numbers 408.3, 408.5, 408.7, various shades of raw umber, 231.3 a shade of yellow ochre.
I use alcohol to mix with the powder to paint all the wood surfaces on the castings.
Then I use the acrylic paint to paint all the little details of the castings such as wood and metal barrels, various tools, cans, buckets, parts, etc
I will then use an A/I solution and go over the whole casting and then let the alcohol dry. I will then use various shades burnt sienna and add rust where I want it.
Once the casting is complete, I will then dust it with a light gray or earth tone to dull the colors so that none of them draws your attention.
This is only about a third of the castings. I am then going to add some castings to update the scene to sometime in the early 1950's. The vertical steam engine is going in the scrap heap and the boat will be powered by a diesel engine instead of sails and the steam engine. I am looking for more castings that are more marine oriented. I have a casting of an electric winch to go into the winch house.
Karl.A
If you are interested in Karl's and many other great tutorials go here:
http://sierrawestscalemodels.com/university.html
I have modified the front of the hoist house because I am going to install an electrical winch that will be seen through the front opening
Karl.A
Karl.A
One of the reasons the boat is in the repair yard is to get a new paint job.
The body of the boat, I primed it with light sea grey, and then painted white with an acrylic paint. Then I wire brushed the resin body. On the cabin, I spray painted with light sea grey and then dry brushed the walls.