Test fitting windows and frames. One on the right needs to be redone. Thats the neat thing about a smart phone camera. It can and does catch stuff you eye sometimes misses. And helps sharpen your focus. I'm working from the side and thats not an ideal angle to work from, I need a bigger work table.
I haven't forgot about the Sierra West Tool shed, Rigging Shed, Hi Rail Truck Leanto custom build. Working on details. Its all in the details, and the details are superb! The more I get into this build the more I want to do another. Just too cool.
You may be working at a disadvantage, but you are doing a great job. Never enough room. It also requires one to be careful not to break something. Not the time to be a bull in a china shop. As they say. ed
So true Ed, so true. I make a conscious effort that any time I feel apprehensive or worked up on a build I stop and go do something else like play Goofy Golf, Watch a train video until I feel calm, relaxed, and focused. I useuly work out some problem or frustration I was expering while doing something mindless like Goofy Gulf too. True, never enough room. Seems the more you get the more you want or think you need. Thank you Ed for the compliment.
Leonard- Your flooring (texture and coloring) is very well done! That's what I imagine well-worn wood in those areas would look like. The light touch of gray adds so much realism and depth. Did you rub it on with your finger tip or use some other method?
With your windows, try using a small steel ruler across the sill to insure they are both square and in line with each other. The framing (above and below) may not be 100% square to the studs, but that won't show after the siding is added. However, if one of the widows is out of whack, it'll be visible from the outside and automatically call attention to itself.
If I could point out one thing, the signs on the front wall really jump out because of the white edges. The thickness of them also looks out of scale, but that's mostly due to the edges. If possible, use a tiny brush and hit the edges with a little A/I to dull down the stark white.
When I add signs, I almost always thin them out a bit by sanding the back of the paper with an emery board or fine sand paper before cutting them out. I'll compare the paper thickness to a piece of a scale 1x4 to get an idea of where I'm at. How thick would those signs be in real life--maybe 1/16" or 1/32" at best? While it's not absolutely necessary get signs down to scale thickness, substantially thinning them will help them blend into the overall scene rather than catch the viewer's eye.
Coming along great Leonard. Cool task lighting. What are yu backing your signage with? They appear a tad thick and the edges a bit bright to me but may be the lighting or my eye.
Bill, thank you. I lightly drag a piece of gray chalk cross the wood and swipe it with my finger. Yes I know about the windows and I have removed them and will redo them. I have to make a set of small brass squares and triangles. I had some but they were stolen along with most of my machining, mechanics, and Japanese carpenters tools. I have one 3" machinest square I'm working with. Looking for a really good 2" square for tight and small work. Not having the right tool is no excuse for doing it right, its just more of a PITA. The window framing will show after the siding goes on because you will see the back side of the siding inside the engine house along with all the details, engine, and the like so they have to be straight, true, plumb, and square. Signs, I mounted my signs on a back of some 80# card stock. Thats why their so thick. I did hit the edges with A/I and chalk but ever so lightly. I will keep your suggestions in mind.
Thank you Ken. The task lighting is a set of Ott Lights with true color spectrum bulbs, love them. As I mentioned to Bill I mounted the signs to some 80# card stock and Very lightly edged with A/I and chalk.
Did some measuring with my caliper and micrometer. I measured a full scale sign and it measures 1/4" or .250". I measured a piece of Mt Albert 1" stock and it measures 0.023". Eighty pound card stock measures 0.012" (apron. 1/2 scale inch). Twice the thickness as pointed out. It seems the closest I can get is a piece of paper backing to a sign. Signage 0.006" + 20# paper 0.0045" = 0.0105"
Well I think I learned something here. My thinking that a sign would have been mounted to a piece of board, which I did, and by its self. Being more focused and conscious of scale and not mindlessly blowing through it.
Wow, that's too much math for a hobby Leonard! But, good info to have.
If you want to go with a mounted sign on a board, what would probably work best is to have enough of the wood showing around the edges. To take it a bit further: you could use a couple pieces of wood and scribe through the paper lightly to illustrate where the boards are underneath. The only example I have is on a billboard I made...yeah a lot larger than the signs on the shed, but it kinda gives you an idea of what I mean.
Comments
Your flooring (texture and coloring) is very well done! That's what I imagine well-worn wood in those areas would look like. The light touch of gray adds so much realism and depth. Did you rub it on with your finger tip or use some other method?
With your windows, try using a small steel ruler across the sill to insure they are both square and in line with each other. The framing (above and below) may not be 100% square to the studs, but that won't show after the siding is added. However, if one of the widows is out of whack, it'll be visible from the outside and automatically call attention to itself.
If I could point out one thing, the signs on the front wall really jump out because of the white edges. The thickness of them also looks out of scale, but that's mostly due to the edges. If possible, use a tiny brush and hit the edges with a little A/I to dull down the stark white.
When I add signs, I almost always thin them out a bit by sanding the back of the paper with an emery board or fine sand paper before cutting them out. I'll compare the paper thickness to a piece of a scale 1x4 to get an idea of where I'm at. How thick would those signs be in real life--maybe 1/16" or 1/32" at best? While it's not absolutely necessary get signs down to scale thickness, substantially thinning them will help them blend into the overall scene rather than catch the viewer's eye.
Here's an auction for 2 really small squares on eBay for $15 (free shipping, too!)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Machinist-Squares-2-x-1-1-2-Jewelers-Tools-Tool-Jewelry-Design-Repair/351850094164?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid=222007&algo=SIC.MBE&ao=2&asc=41451&meid=3139c70652c24c4a989a910ac641d48f&pid=100005&rk=6&rkt=6&sd=272549307330
Well I think I learned something here. My thinking that a sign would have been mounted to a piece of board, which I did, and by its self. Being more focused and conscious of scale and not mindlessly blowing through it.
If you want to go with a mounted sign on a board, what would probably work best is to have enough of the wood showing around the edges. To take it a bit further: you could use a couple pieces of wood and scribe through the paper lightly to illustrate where the boards are underneath.
The only example I have is on a billboard I made...yeah a lot larger than the signs on the shed, but it kinda gives you an idea of what I mean.
Geezerbill