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HO Twin Mills

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Comments

  • Mitch-
    That makes three of us! I made mine larger than what was called for in the manual by about the same dimensions as Mike and Carl's. The only thing I'd suggest is making sure your base is plenty sturdy. The Envirotex is pretty heavy so depending on how much bigger you build the pond, you'll but putting more weight on the substructure.
    I believe I used 1/2" particle board and I haven't had any issues.
  • Mitch. i used 3/4 finished grade plywood and no issues with it in ten years.
  • Thank you Mike, Carl and Bill for your advice.
  • edited October 2017
    It's always nice to see this kit being build. Great job so far!

    Nejc
  • Getting back to the sawmill. Not much new to look at yet. I have a space measuring 4 X12 feet to place the sawmill, pond and the other kits that go along with this sawmill. I have not touched the other kits yet.One of these days, weeks, months(?) I will get enough courage to cut the styrofoam and make a pond.

    IMG_0004 (640x480)


    IMG_0001 (640x480)
  • Yes, about 2/3 of the way back on the styrofoam is my little waterfront scene I made a while ago with the shipyard and Shelby's. It is resting there until I build another peninsula to display it. If you are interested in seeing it (I am kind of proud of it) it is under the wood finishing category and it's called making the ship look like fresh wood.
    Thanks for noticing.
  • Thanks Ed. Appreciate it.
  • Looking good Mitch...time to take the "plunge" and get the log pond carved out!
  • The reason I skipped over the base until now is integrating the sawmill complex into a larger complex of track and buildings. With the third layer of foam around the outside of the diorama and one layer of foam in the sorting area, the tracks will be going up and down quite a bit and I don't like that. I have decided to eliminate the third level around the pond. To accomplish this I will eliminate the lower level of the log brow to compensate. I do not see any way to keep the area around the sorting area at the same level as the mill so I will follow the instructions for this area.
    I am interested in any other sawmill builders photos of how they integated their sawmill into their layout. Please post any pics you like on this thread. Thank you.
  • The reason I skipped over the base until now is integrating the sawmill complex into a larger complex of track and buildings. With the third layer of foam around the outside of the diorama and one layer of foam in the sorting area, the tracks will be going up and down quite a bit and I don't like that. I have decided to eliminate the third level around the pond. To accomplish this I will eliminate the lower level of the log brow to compensate. I do not see any way to keep the area around the sorting area at the same level as the mill so I will follow the instructions for this area.
    I am interested in any other sawmill builders photos of how they integated their sawmill into their layout. Please post any pics you like on this thread. Thank you.
  • The pond has been cut out. It looked pretty big until I dropped the structures in. I may enlarge it in the dynamite shack direction but we'll see. The journey continues.

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  • Well that's looking quite purposeful! Nicely done Mitch. Geesh, that's such a great kit and you have done a wonderful job with it.
  • Looks awesome
  • Thanks Ken, Mike, Bryan and Ed.

    Here are some pictures of the sorting table, donkey shed and tool sheds.


    IMG_0004 (1)
    IMG_0001 (2)

    IMG_0003 (1)

    Page 58 in the instructions which go to 120 pages. Not for the impatient.
  • Nice work Mitch.
  • Looks great, coming along nicely. Hey Mitch - lots of pics in that manual!
  • Looking good, Mitch! The second half of this project goes by a lot faster than the first plus, there's a lot of fun stuff towards the home stretch. Keep up the fine work!
  • edited January 2018
    That's what I love about Brett's kits, so enjoyable to work through each component and sub-assembly as a kit into itself and then see your work evolve to the finished diorama...almost magical! Great progress Mitch.
  • Loving this build Mitch! Just outstanding.

    Geezerbill
  • Congratulations
  • It’s very very nice
  • Carl,ADMIN,Bill, Ken< Bill and lebelge --thank you all for commenting.

    I have some questions someone may be able to answer.

    In building the log haul drive and deck frame the shaft support box in my construction is slightly off the deck . Is this correct or have I made a mistake? See pictures below. The staining and finishing is incomplete.

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    IMG_0011

    I was also wondering about the realism of my logs. I have two, for lack of a better term styles, pictured. The little figure is a scale 5 foot-eight inches tall. The logs are fir bird perches about 14 inches long which will need to be cut into pieces 3 inches long to represent the logs in the log pond, etc.



    IMG_0002 (2)


    IMG_0004 (2)

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    The other style.


    IMG_0006 (2)


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    IMG_0007 (1)

    Are either of these two any good or do you have any better sources?
  • Hi Mitch I used Azalea branches for my logs it is a very slow growing bush and the bark and growth rings are almost to scale for your project....Carl
  • I will look a mine in the morning and let you know.I am sure that Bill knows.
  • edited January 2018
    Mitch-
    I used Douglas fir bird perches on mine. I think you've got the right size in both pictures--these things were MASSIVE a lot of times. Personally, I like the second set you showed. I can't put my finger on it exactly, but the first ones have a plainness about them. Like, on the model they might truly look "sticks" rather than massive logs from the forest.
    I'm currently working on the O scale sawmill and I'm gonna see how grape vine works. I found some wild vines growing in the woods and they have an awesome outer texture that should look real close to tree bark. I don't have any pictures handy right now...

    As far as the log deck & haul, I can't get a full sense of the issue you're having based on the pictures.
    The log haul should line up flush with the deck. It appears that's how you have yours.
    If your question is about the legs that support the deck, it looks like they don't seem to be touching anything. On my model, the legs were supported by the wooden timbers of the retaining wall:

    IMG_0977

    Perhaps your retaining wall needs another row of timbers added to it. Then, make the top of the timbers flush with the styrofoam. (See how I shimmed mine from the bottom? That'll never be seen once the water is added.)

    IMG_0979

    Does this help?
  • Thanks for the fast feedback Carl and Bill.

    My question about the gap underneath the shaft support box is illustrated in this picture.

    IMG_0001 (4)

    You can see the gap between the wood and the metal in the picture and I think I can spot that in your build, Bill. Correct me if I am wrong, please.

    This is how the log haul should roughly line up on the log deck. I will have to shim the log haul to to the proper height in my build.



    IMG_0004 (3)


    IMG_0005 (3)

    These are supposed to be fir perches but there must be a variety of firs used. I eliminated three perches from the first batch I pictured ending up with these three which at least look like they have a bark pattern (in the foreground), I think.


    IMG_0007 (2)


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    Grape vine, Douglas fir? I have more things to consider.

    One more question is on the rails. I left the rails on the sorting table rusty because they would not have that much traffic to keep them shiny but what about the flat car ramp and the log deck. It seems like the top of the rails should be shiny or at least look like un-rusted metal somehow. Or I am over thinking this and I should just leave everything rusty rail looking?
  • I like the size of the logs. 2nd choice would get my vote. Agree with Karl that Azalea makes good looking logs as well.
    Bryan
  • Ok, I see that now. Mine has that gap too--maybe even bigger:

    IMG_0980

    Check pg 58 of the manual. The picture at the top looks to me like the top support beam of the log deck butts up flush with the top beam of the highest bent. So, I believe you're in good shape. Just make sure the angled pieces and walkway on the bents line up with the angled pieces on the Log deck (which haven't been added on your model) Template M1 illustrates this.

    I also made my rails shiny in the areas you're planning to leave shiny.
  • I also like the second set of logs. I used Rhododendrons which have a great bark texture to them. See picture below.

    great work on the mill!!

    GeezerbillIMG_0051
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