Howdy, Stranger!
It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!
Categories
- 955 All Categories
- 3 Picture Posting and Resizing
- 56 New Member Introductions
- 115 Off-Topic Forum
- 4 Photography
- 2 Resources
- 16 New Product Information
- 167 The SierraWest Forum
- 9 Brett's Blog
- 119 General News & Ramblings
- 3 Re-Release Information
- 6 Q & A about SierraWest
- 9 What Would You Like to See?
- 384 Builds
- 140 HO Scale Builds
- 165 O Scale Builds
- 60 Finished SW Build Pics
- 14 Miscellaneous Builds
- 190 Techniques
- 19 Working with Wood
- 20 Painting Castings
- 5 Masonry
- 23 Scenery
- 37 Tools and Supplies
- 21 Layout Planning & Building
- 40 Miscellaneous
- 24 Prototype Information
- 22 Reference and Research
Comments
You have some boards running perpendicular to the walls, and some boards running parallel.
Indeed too much over thinking of these things can lead to a headache...
As you have also noticed this difference I'll expand further into the realms of my madness.....
The boards perpendicular to the wall the moisture would wick outwards as it does up the wall, the moisture/dirt/stains would seep outwards, but not too far, I think you have the distance right but maybe just a little darker.
As for the boards parallel to the wall, the board closest to the wall, again would be darker , but, the next board wouldn't get nearly so much water damage/effect due to the fact that the water/moisture would pass through the gap between the boards before getting to the next one.
So much to think about, so much to drive you crazy, sometimes impressionism is easier than realism, we all draw that line somewhere.
Karl.A
Karl.A
On to the slab bin. The bottom of the chute is a scale 23 feet from the ground. Seems pretty high. Since that is the way it is designed and everyone else built it that high I will build it that way to.
I'm sure there were reasons, I haven't built this amazing kit yet so I cant comment on what they may be, but, as with everything in a SWSM kit, it sure as hell wasn't random.
Looking forward to seeing your next update.
Karl.A
I'd use some raw umber (408.5, .7, and .9) and maybe even a little raw sienna (234.3 is a nice earthy color). If you want to be daring, some light grays will give it a sun-bleached type aging.
I weathered the conveyer a little more as suggested. I used my alcohol and ink to do this. The same stain I used on the wood originally. Just more of it. Here is the result.
Now let us compare it to the newly built slab bin. The slab bin looks like it was just built by comparison. Going to need some serious weathering on that structure now.
When more progress is made I will post.
I'm curious as to why the bin looks so new, I haven't built the kit yet, or even read the manual, so, I don't know how all this fits in or the processes involved. I'm eager to see the next pictures.
Karl.A
Karl, the camera is not capturing the color I am seeing. The wood on both structures is more brown and grey while the camera makes the structures more yellow. The slab bin needs to be weathered but it is not as nearly new looking as the picture suggests.
I look forward to the next update.
Karl.A
The change in background helped the camera capture a truer color to my eye. Please dismiss the previous pictures because their color is too.....
The slab bin still needs to be weathered but at least it does not look brand new now.
Sometimes conveying that is impossible, too many variables. The modelling is great and that's what matters most.
Karl.A
and as Ken and Brett have mentioned, once all those rough cut ends are darkened down its going to look even more fantastic.
I sometimes think its a shame that all of these smaller things get lost in the 'vastness' of the 'Twin Mills', but then remember that it is because of this quality throughout everything that that is what makes it so spectacular.
Keep up the great work and the pictures.
Karl.A
Overall I think the log ends are OK, maybe one or two of the very light spots could be dulled a little if I was being fussy, but that may be the lighting.
Maybe just a slight touch (or two) with a very weak a/I mix on a detail brush on some of the square ends to 'kill' the new wood look but not darken them. As you say, its tough to determine, but I think that will do it.
The first picture is how the wood looked with full strength stain in some places. The squares and the log on the right are practically black even though the camera seems to lighten them.
Now I will present what the log brow looks like now.
I think that wraps up the log brow although I am always interested in suggestions. I will turn to the next page in the instructions and see what adventure is next.
Karl.A
I made seven 1/8" pours of Envirotex. The gory details are on an old and very long thread on RRLine done by our friend Elliott and myself (Duelling Mills). My rather large diorama was dragged across the country a couple of times (and to Canada) and isn't the worse for ware, and no warping.