Brett that is a great idea. I will just send all my casting to Ken to paint and weather for me. Since he is now retired I am sure he will have time to do them for me.
Thanks Bryan. I'm working on a nozzle...really I am...
Here is a suite of resin castings. The large open cabinet lives outside the Main Building under the addition. The two workbenches get strip wood legs and supports and are destine for the Welding Shop interior as is the smaller open cabinet. Not quite done as I take pictures to see what I want to work on further. Hacksaw blade looks too bright so will work on that and several other small issues but essentially these are ready to go.
Appreciate that Bryan. I figure Brett works very hard to produce the finest castings available anywhere, so I try and finish them up with same care and attention to detail as best I can.
Glad to hear that Mitch as it is hard to know if I'm posting too many and boring folks. Pictures are a great tool for checking and critiquing your work as you know. I also use the images to document my builds and then put those together later in a binder along with notes, sketches, documents such as the bible...or, uhh, I mean manual, etc..
Appreciate that Brett, and maybe I can retire a bit early...hmm... Had a ball going through the various colors of the SWSM/Reaper paint set I acquired here. Getting a feel for my favorites already!
Thanks much Phil. Better to put the casting detail in another thread in order to focus on those details and not slow down the structure/diorama official build thread. Allows more time to show lots of images and table any discussions
Just finished up the Oil Drum Tipping Cradle that will be positioned on the Sum Pad. Barrel and support was treated with the same color and finish as the Kerosene Tank for the Welding Shop. What a great detail Brett included here.
Well the HO Scale tipping cradle is small, really small and if I had chosen to supply wheels for this detail they would have had to be about 1/32" diameter - at most - so no wheels there buddy... just too small
Next up is one of the pole lights supplied with the O'Neills kit. There is one positioned next to the oil tank, which is where this one will live, and one at the scrapping scene near the covered loading dock.
The resin casting of the light shade in it's own right is a great detail casting. Positioned high on a light pole I decided to impart some high detail as the underside could possibly be viewed if you crane your neck just right! The casting is flush across the bottom and has been primed in brown see (figure 1) that's a tooth pick for scale!.
I carefully carved out the underside of the casting with a #11 blade and some fine sandpaper creating a "dished" out underside to the lampshade. I then painted the top green and the underside of the shade white. When the paint was dry to the touch, I picked and scraped the paint with a damp toothpick and then finished with some rust chalk (figure 2).
I made a light bulb by taking a small diameter piece of styrene rod and placed a blob of Epoxy on the end. I did this several times allowing the Epoxy to set between applications. This allowed me to shape the blob a bit more elongate to simulate a light bulb. I then very sparingly added some dark chalk dust to dirty the build slightly. I then grasped the styrene rod just above the bulb and trimmed off the rod with a blade. I then glued the exposed end of the styrene rod in the lampshade (figure 3)
The pole was made from brass wire supplied with O'Neills. Bent to taste around a paint brush handle, blackened, primed with brown, then painted grey, scraped and weathered the paint and rusted with chalks.
(figure 1) Note the toothpick for scale and to hold the lamp shade for the picture.
Looks really good Ken. Another option to create the light bulb is to use Gallery Glass which can be found at Michaels or Hobby Lobby...or you can be a man about it and use a real light!
Gallery glass comes out with the constancy of Elmer Glue but dries hard with a transparent property which allows light to shine thru. I use Crystal Clear to represent glass and you can also get other colors like Ruby Red which are excellent for tail lights.
Working on O'Neills...detailing my way around the Welding Shop. Featured is one of the Oil Drum Cradles that Brett provides with O'Neills. This is easily constructed from just two laser cut pieces.
First I painted and weathered the two cradle pieces. I wanted a rather grimy and rusted appearance...go figure! I then selected the oil tank I was going to use and decided to make a petcock drain fitting. I selected a piece of round styrene rod and then a piece of smaller solder wire. I drilled a hole in the barrel just a bit bigger than the styrene rod. I then drilled a hole in the end of the styrene rod the size of the solder wire. I trimmed down the rod to the right length and glued in the bent piece of solder creating the curved spout. I glued the petcock assembly into the hole in the barrel. I then made a very small handle and used a very small rivet head on top of the handle. I Glued the Oil Drum onto the cradle and then gunked up the area around the petcock and done...Next will be the Oil Drum Rack that stores up to 6 oil drums.
Serves to illustrate how small this guy is in 1:87
Thanks much Bill. Kind of interesting and fun to single out individual castings as their unique qualities tend to get overlooked when blended into a scene...
Looks awesome. If you ever happen to run across a drain fitting casting in HO or O scale, please let me know as I'm sure your great looking home version took quite a while to construct...and time I would rather spend on modeling rocks and bushes.
Somehow I completely missed this. So will accept this update due to the sheer brilliance of it. What a wonderful piece. Its a kit in itself that little guy.
Comments
Appreciate that Steve, on to the next casting...Tipping Cradle...
Nice hearing from you Jerry...Dr. Grunge's garage is now open for business!
at detailing casting.
Welding joints. Hmmm...I was thinking more along the lines of a nozzle on the end of the hose.
Here is a suite of resin castings. The large open cabinet lives outside the Main Building under the addition. The two workbenches get strip wood legs and supports and are destine for the Welding Shop interior as is the smaller open cabinet. Not quite done as I take pictures to see what I want to work on further. Hacksaw blade looks too bright so will work on that and several other small issues but essentially these are ready to go.
I really enjoy your pictures (for me, more is better) and descriptions of the techniques you use to finish these details. Keep them coming please.
Mitch
Had a ball going through the various colors of the SWSM/Reaper paint set I acquired here. Getting a feel for my favorites already!
The resin casting of the light shade in it's own right is a great detail casting. Positioned high on a light pole I decided to impart some high detail as the underside could possibly be viewed if you crane your neck just right! The casting is flush across the bottom and has been primed in brown see (figure 1) that's a tooth pick for scale!.
I carefully carved out the underside of the casting with a #11 blade and some fine sandpaper creating a "dished" out underside to the lampshade. I then painted the top green and the underside of the shade white. When the paint was dry to the touch, I picked and scraped the paint with a damp toothpick and then finished with some rust chalk (figure 2).
I made a light bulb by taking a small diameter piece of styrene rod and placed a blob of Epoxy on the end. I did this several times allowing the Epoxy to set between applications. This allowed me to shape the blob a bit more elongate to simulate a light bulb. I then very sparingly added some dark chalk dust to dirty the build slightly. I then grasped the styrene rod just above the bulb and trimmed off the rod with a blade. I then glued the exposed end of the styrene rod in the lampshade (figure 3)
The pole was made from brass wire supplied with O'Neills. Bent to taste around a paint brush handle, blackened, primed with brown, then painted grey, scraped and weathered the paint and rusted with chalks.
(figure 1) Note the toothpick for scale and to hold the lamp shade for the picture.
(figure 2)
(figure 3)
What can I say Wes, I'm over the edge aren't I.
First I painted and weathered the two cradle pieces. I wanted a rather grimy and rusted appearance...go figure! I then selected the oil tank I was going to use and decided to make a petcock drain fitting. I selected a piece of round styrene rod and then a piece of smaller solder wire. I drilled a hole in the barrel just a bit bigger than the styrene rod. I then drilled a hole in the end of the styrene rod the size of the solder wire. I trimmed down the rod to the right length and glued in the bent piece of solder creating the curved spout. I glued the petcock assembly into the hole in the barrel. I then made a very small handle and used a very small rivet head on top of the handle. I Glued the Oil Drum onto the cradle and then gunked up the area around the petcock and done...Next will be the Oil Drum Rack that stores up to 6 oil drums.
Serves to illustrate how small this guy is in 1:87
Bill
Somehow I completely missed this. So will accept this update due to the sheer brilliance of it. What a wonderful piece. Its a kit in itself that little guy.