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Comments
Bill
I agree with the others: your little scene within the barn is very cool. The jacks, the scatter of tools, the spare tire, the rag...all perfect details in logical placement. Looking forward to your next update!
The cedar shingles are a must for me now. I don't think I can go back. Once I get a rhythm going it's really not too bad. With each build I try to get more detailed, my goal is to make sure each build takes so much time I can never finish my layout.
I needed a larger detail for the other side of the barn. The tractor kit is not one of Brett's, it's a pretty low quality kit I had on the shelf. It worked perfectly for the interior area which won't be seen up close.
This will be the view once I close everything up.
I built this parts/tool board to go above the left side workbench.
I installed it above the workbench. It helped pull everything together, this area was too barren.
The view from outside of the bench area.
Thanks for checking in. I need to add a few more small details then I will be re-reading Alan's thread and figuring out a lighting plan for the interior.
-Steve
Thanks for sharing!
Alan
Outstanding work I do like the tool board also.
Carl
Bill
Thanks Ken.
Mike, 3 head gaskets, a transmission pan gasket, a differential seal and a square carburetor gasket.
I made the ceiling from some scribed siding I had around and used scale 2x10s for the joists. I matched the spacing with the side wall framework. Most of it will not be easily seen so I'm didn't go overboard with detailing the wood.
Here it is installed in the barn, no lights added of course. The ceiling will be removable
but not easily. I want to be able to service the lights but I won't be taking the roof off to show the interior.
For my lights I used some micro leds pre-wired I purchased on Ebay. They are incredibly small and still very bright. The lampshade is from Ngineering, its the larger HO 24" one.
I drilled a small hole in the center about the same diameter as the inside of the tubing. The tubing is Ultra-Thin .032 OD tubing from Ngineering. Its slightly large for HO but not excessive and it works very well for the interior. The wires ran through the tubing with a little bit of work but it wasn't terribly difficult.
This LED is very small. I don't have the patience to solder one this small. The set I bought on Ebay came from China and they cost me $8.00 for 20 leds pre-wired.
This is how I fed everything through the ceiling.
I didn't want to solder the LED wires together so I made this little circuit board using copper tape from Microlumina. I think this is a simple way to wire everything and it's pretty easy to diagnose a problem. I wired all the lights in series, I originally had a current limiter in the circuit but it made the lights far too dim. I should be safe with the 4 LEDs in series with no resistor. Each LED is 3v so 3v x 4 = 12v and I'm using a 12 power supply. I may add a small resistor to darken the lights a bit.
I left lots of lead wire on everything and I just taped it down with electrical tape. I will cover everything with black construction paper so you can see the wires from the upper windows.
Here is how the lights look installed. They are a tad bright, maybe out of scale brightness but they do a good job showing off the interior so I may leave them bright.
If you look in the very corner of this picture you can see were I ran the wires down the wall. I heatshrinked the wires together and painted them black.
The lights really bring the interior to life. I have to give credit to Alan for inspiring me to do it right, the lights in his repair shed were the inspiration for me to take the time and make it as real as I could.
Thanks for checking in.
-Steve
Bill
Great job on the lights years ago I used grain of wheat bulbs hook up to a old transformer and by turning the dial you could increase the brightness of the light it worked very well.Now we have LED's moving right along.
Carl
Lighting is one of those jobs that is rarely fun but pays huge dividends on a model.
Geezerbill, This is my lazy shortcut tutorial. The copper tape does make it real
easy to visualize the circuit and it's cheaper than a PCB board setup.
Carl, I have a whole bunch of grain of wheat bulbs, I was really tempted to use them. They are easier to install in my opinion but they don't last as long and they aren't as bright.
Alan, I'm working out the roof then I will take some night time shots. Maybe even outside.
Ken, I tried to use just the scribed stock but it looked wrong without the joists.
Bill, it's one of my least favorite parts of building a model but it does make a huge difference. I prefer to see interior details through open doors with scale lighting rather than taking a roof off. Plus I always end up breaking something when I have a removable roof.
I really appreciate the feedback everyone.
-Steve
I made some progress on the roof over the weekend. I decided to stick with the tarpaper as recommending in the instructions.
I glued some scale 1x10s right on the cardstock roof card, then I used paper sprayed with gray primer cut into 1/2" strips for the tarpaper.
More of the same, this roof was very quick compared to the last couple shingle roofs I did.
I added some patches to get the roof some character.
I drybrushed the roof white and then dusted the whole thing with chalk.
I turned the lights on and took this picture, the light escaping from between the boards on the lower level looked cool to me.
Thanks for checking in. I plan on adding a sign to the roof and a few chimneys etc..
-Steve
Alan