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O'Neills Fabrication/Quincy Salvage
Hi Everyone,
This is my first post on the forum. I plan to combine O'Neills and Quincy Salvage into a larger diorama sharing a siding.
I've posted a few build threads for non-SW kits on the RRLine forums but it made sense since I'm using 2 SW kits to post here. I'm starting with O'Neills first and then hopefully transferring some of the newer techniques to the Quincy Salvage buildings.
I added some texture to the boards and knot holes.
I tried out a few different wire brushes. I like the one on the bottom the best, it has nice stiff bristles. I bought the top and bottom ones from Home Depot for $2 each. The middle one I got from the Snap-On dealer at my work, I think it cost $10 and it has very weak bristles, not recommended.
I stained all the wood with Rembrandt pastels as per the instructions and Brett's video. I feel like it came out a bit splotchy and my knot holes disappeared. I think the color is right and I fully saturated the boards in alcohol, do these look correct?
I've mostly used paint washes and stains in the past so this is very new to me.
Here is a closer shot.
Thanks for checking in.
-Steve
This is my first post on the forum. I plan to combine O'Neills and Quincy Salvage into a larger diorama sharing a siding.
I've posted a few build threads for non-SW kits on the RRLine forums but it made sense since I'm using 2 SW kits to post here. I'm starting with O'Neills first and then hopefully transferring some of the newer techniques to the Quincy Salvage buildings.
I added some texture to the boards and knot holes.
I tried out a few different wire brushes. I like the one on the bottom the best, it has nice stiff bristles. I bought the top and bottom ones from Home Depot for $2 each. The middle one I got from the Snap-On dealer at my work, I think it cost $10 and it has very weak bristles, not recommended.
I stained all the wood with Rembrandt pastels as per the instructions and Brett's video. I feel like it came out a bit splotchy and my knot holes disappeared. I think the color is right and I fully saturated the boards in alcohol, do these look correct?
I've mostly used paint washes and stains in the past so this is very new to me.
Here is a closer shot.
Thanks for checking in.
-Steve
Comments
SteveF
As to your question on 'splotchiness' ... I don't think the boards look splotchy, which would infer large blobs of differentiation on the boards colouring, I think your variation is just right.
Maybe what you are referring to is the speckle effect you are seeing when looking closely at some of the individual boards.
This can be caused by a rough surface on the wood where the chalk accumulates. It is easily prevented by drawing the boards through some steel wool prior to colouring with chalk to smooth out these rough spots and also removes any fuzzies that may show up later in photos.
Even after colouring, drawing the wood through some steel wool will remove this 'speckle' effect, it will homogenise the colouring slightly on each board but you already have great definition between the boards.
Be careful not to draw the boards too much, or vigorously as this will not only remove the speckle , but also the graining, it basically polishes the boards and this is a whole other effect. That's the beauty of these techniques, simple slight variations give different specific results.
Just 'draw' slowly once or twice from each direction and the speckle will go. Pull, don't push or you'll snap the wood, and don't try to go back and forth, just pinch between some steel wool and pull through.
Of course this may not be what you are referring to.
Boards look great, this is going to be a great one to watch....
Karl.A
Steve, I was just reading your Stump Creek Lumber RR Office thread. Great work, I was studying the white building portion of it right before I started trying the wet brushing technique on these boards. Yours looks fantastic.
Karl, Your right I was refering to the speckled colors on the boards, I may have been using a little bit too much chalk in areas. I ended up using the steel wool technique and it took care of it right away. I did find that it left some small pieces of steel in some of the boards, maybe I need a different brand/quality of steel wool. I just used fine grade steel wool from Home Depot or Lowes. It also covered my pants and shirt with steel wool shavings and I wasn't working it very hard.
I stepped the resolution up a bit on the pictures. Hopefully it will show the detail a bit better.
I practiced a little on a scrap piece of wood, once I liked the results I got I jumped right in and colored all the boards.
The wet brushing technique was pretty easy to get down. I typically use a decent amount of dry brushing in my models so I tried to just do a terrible job of dry brushing and it worked out well.
I managed to get all the colors and brands described in the kit. I'm trusting Brett on this color, it's a bit outside my comfort zone but it will definitely contrast against the white.
I should make a bit more progress tomorrow, I have Mondays and Tuesdays off with my kids so I can usually get some building done when they are taking their afternoon naps.
Thanks
-Steve
yes the steel wool can be a bit messy, I try to use it over a sheet of newspaper to catch the fragments, but, it is a great tool for several different uses, of these this is one.
Boards are looking very nicely aged, nice work on the damp brushing.
Wise choice following Bretts colours, they will be perfect, don't forget, they're not finished yet...
Looking forward to nap time.
Karl.A
SteveF
I framed out the door and window openings with the blue/green wood.
I added the wood trim, I also cleaned off the fuzz from the blue pieces. I didn't see it until I took this picture.
I added the siding to the left wall. I took this picture outside, my workshop lighting really changed the colors in the pictures. I have 3 stages of working light and each one really changed the color tone.
-Steve
-Steve
I made a bit more progress over the weekend. I got all the main walls covered and I added the doors and windows. I looked at my finished walls and I felt like the white was too bright for the level of peeling and weathering. I dusted the walls with chalk but I still wasn't happy with the color, I ended up washing over all the walls with A&I and everything looked right to me. Let me know what you think.
The color on this wall matches the rest. The lighting made it strange.
Phil, that area will be covered so it doesn't require any color.
Alan, I had the same issues with the double sided tape. I thought I was going to break one for sure, I really had to rock them free. I didn't use the terry cloth technique for the windows and doors, instead I used a very stiff brush, removed most of the paint and used a blotting type motion to apply the paint. I agree with the simultaneous build threads, I read Ken's thread and get motivated to push forward.
-Steve
I made sure, as Brett recommends, to stick just a tiny portion of the corner of all the laser cut sheet parts to the double sided tape for painting so they are easy to remove. Great stuff here guys....
This really is a fantastic kit everything goes together so easily and the instructions couldn't be any clearer.
I finished and glued the walls together for the addition today. Everything went pretty smoothly, I'm familiar with the board on board clapboard from The Shipyard. It really is the best way to get some interesting and weathered siding. All the pieces were colored the same way, I did add a wash of A&I over the finished walls the darken them up a bit and pull some of the details out.
Thanks for checking in. Tomorrow I hope to glue the addition on, add some signage and details.
-Steve
Addition is glued in place.
The walls are together and I added the bumper and hanging tire castings to the wall.
I added the awning but I haven't finished detailing the roof yet.
I plan on detailing the awning roof and starting on the tower siding today.
Thanks for checking in.
-Steve
SteveF
Thanks for sharing...
Alan
Awesome job. The board on board looks great. I really like the coloration on the boards below the loading docks. Each of the builds is very unique and personalized. Very cool.
Ditto what everyone has said. Keep up the great work.
Jim
I really like the way the freight door looks, its made with stripwood glued inside a laser cut frame. I weathered my wood pretty severely but you could tone it down if you wanted too. I weathered the doors and windows with brown chalk but I wanted to get some more of the white back so I brushed them with white chalk.
I held the freight door up to the light so you can see how much the split board add to the door.
I cut the sign out using some very sharp scissors I got from Michaels. They are for stenciling I think.
I glued the sign to the boards.
I cut some lines in the sign in line with the boards and coated the sign in chalk.
Here's the sign glued to the from of the building, I also glued all the walls together.
Thanks for checking in.
-Steve
I made a bit more progress this weekend.
I colored and weathered the concrete dock casting, the instructions call for a layering of different grays to give the dock is weathered appearance. I made a bit of a mistake weathering it, I added several layers of chalk and when weathering some rust stains using chalk/alcohol wash I completely overdid it. I then tried to use some clean alcohol to thin and tone it down, it created a gray/black/rust wash over the front of the casting. I ended up really liking the look, it brought out all the detail in the casting. I was going for a pretty heavily weathered concrete look so it worked out.
I also added some junk to the top of the dock roof.
I mocked up the tower to the siding and found the wall on the main structure was warped pretty bad leaving a large gap. You can't see it in the picture but it was about 1/32 of an inch, no good. The wall warped because I used a A&I wash over it after I added all the siding, I wanted a pretty heavily weathered wall. I stepped outside of the instructions on that one, not a flaw in the design of the kit.
I pulled the corner braces off and added some bracing to try to pull it back again. It worked fine.
The tower isn't glued on yet but everything is mocked up. I will further correct the minor gap near the peak when I glue everything together.
Thanks for checking in.
-Steve