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Comments
Jim
The shorter tank on the left is for acetylene, painted black, and the taller green one on the right is the oxygen. The second pic is my completed welding shop interior.
The cart looks short because it is a top view looking down into the shop. My chains are a
little big and I still need the two hoses, and a pair of leather work gloves.
Typically they assign these colors for the following gases:
Welding Gases:
Green - Oxygen
Darker Red - Acetylene (aka Argon)
Other Gases:
Bright Red or Yellow - Hydrogen
Brown or Orange - Helium
Black - Nitrogen
Gray - Carbon Dioxide
With that said, it appears each supplier will paint the tanks their own colors to represent its contents meaning that at the end of the day, paint your tanks whatever colors you feel look best...
-Steve
And speaking of needing a new OptiVISOR, check out the pulleys I inadvertently substituted for the wheels on my welder's cart. As my Sergeant-Major in the Army used to say, "inadvertent" means by pure damn carelessness. Fixing won't be easy as all the rafters are now in place.
I'll post some final photos on this one some day. A lot of little things were added or changed because of contest entry strategy- yes, competition does motivate me to keep modeling. I was also a competitive golfer, but golf was frustrating most of the time and rarely enjoyable for me.
For those building O'Neill's, here are some dirty oily rags and another welder's cart you can model. From the Wiscasset, Waterville, and Farmington- a neat Maine two-footer we went to. Lots of good modeling ideas.
/Users/mike.engler59gmail.com/Desktop/Welders cart at WW&F.jpg
I made some modifications on my O'Neill's because I entered it in the Square Foot Challenge at the National Narrow Gauge Convention in Maine two weeks ago. It was for small dioramas 12"x12" and O'Neill's was the perfect size for this. I'll walk you through the changes and additions I made.
1) Made half of the Welding Shop roof removable
2) Made the drive-through removable, and added extra framing detail that matches what will be in the "O" scale O'Neill's
3) Eliminated the covered drive-up framing and roof
All of these were done simply because I couldn't stand to cover up all of those great details and castings included in Brett's kit. At many contests, and this was true of the Maine NNGC, the entries are displayed on hotel tables that are only 30" high. Old folks like myself aren't going to crouch down to see the model at eye-level, and this is a popular vote contest.
All of the roofs and frames have been built, and have been restored to the model now that it is home and can be retired to the layout I am building.
Other changes I will describe in the next week or so, include three lights- the two yard lights and the Welding Shop interior. I also put a flashing light in the burn-barrel where the pallets were burned, under some yellow and orange plastic to simulate the fire.
I eliminated the drive-up roof and framing, primarily because I angled the adjacent scrapping area to accommodate some ground elevations I added to the diorama, and there just wasn't room for the frame.
I better start including some pics of what I am talking about. First the drive-through framing. The roof would have made it more difficult at that height to see the sump and other great details. Thanks very much to Brett for sending me the photo of what the "O" scale version looked like.
So the Welding Shop is small and I decided to try an alternative roof, and since it was a trial I didn't use the kit materials. Instead of the included cardstock I cut some .030 styrene to the same size as the die-cut included roof. Instead of scoring it to fold it, I cut it into two halves. I sprayed one side dark brown, and marked 1/8" pencil sides on the other.
Next I applied 3M transfer adhesive #465. I've been using it for 40 years, ever since it was a test product for 3M. Absolutely no warping when applying paper shingles, ties to homasote, strip wood to card stock (or in this case styrene) subwalls, etc., etc.
Next I applied some Wild West Scale Models shake shingles, which I think are a good representation of rough sawn cedar shakes. I started on the bottom of one half, and applied the strips to about 3/8" from the top. Then I cut the un-shingled part off, and applied strips to it, making sure the bottom row would overlap the top row of the first piece.
Next I shingled and then glued in place the permanent side. Then the top of the two-piece half. After it was capped with card stock, I could now slide the removable piece into place. A nice snug fit, and when in place it's hard to tell where the seam is. Like most things, a photo will point it out.
So here is the roof in place, then a photo of removing the lower panel, and finally how the interior is displayed. The snug fit under the adjacent main building roof keeps the removable piece firmly in place. A couple of small pieces of strip wood underneath the removable section would also keep it in place. Next time we'll talk about lighting and some other fun.
Mitch