HO O'Neill's Fabrication Non-build thread

Alan_H · May 2016

Funny...on my tablet the orientation is correct, on my PC it looks like this. It's easier to use my phone to take picks like this as opposed to taking everything downstairs to the photobooth! I did dirty up some individual boards, but I may take the pan pastels to the wall and see what happens.

Michael_Pearce · May 2016

Has anyone coloured the rib seamed roofing yet? I am looking for tips or encouragement!
I have been working on the welding shop walls while I pondered having a go.

Alan_H · May 2016

No, however I am a firm believer in Archer circuit board etchant. It will give enough tooth for whatever coloring method you choose to use. I have also used acrylics applied with an airbrush as a base coat, then gone over it with artists oils and chalks. I have not yet read what Brett recommends, and so far the instructions have been dead on. I will not likely deviate from them, but I have enough of the material from other projects to experiment a little.

Alan_H · May 2016

Got the rest of my windows and doors framed and will be putting up siding today!

Alan_H · May 2016

Working on my last main building wall in between the yard work, the dinner prep and what not. One thing I would warn others about: Take care how much of the wider siding you use. I tried to only use it when fit up required it, and ran short. No big deal, as I was able to come up with a suitable replacement from my stash of scale lumber. All part of the adventure! Photos when the last wall is done!

Alan_H · May 2016

PS: Two more pieces would have done it and left a little for goofs!

admin · May 2016

To clarify Alan's comment - the siding is a randomly applied mixture of 3 different sizes of lumber. More than enough combined pieces are provided to complete the structure. What Alan is talking about is specifically one of the three sizes. He must have used more of it than the ratio I supplied. Everyone is different in the way they utilize the mix so if you run out one size just keep on with the remaining pieces. I always add at least 10% extra wood so running out of the cumulative mixture is not an issue.

Also in reference to ribbed seam roofing weathering. I provide a simple foolproof method in the manual and do not recommend using the etchant with this kit. I did not want a roof that was too aged, especially in contrast with the siding. But to each their own. Alan - I will be most curious to see how your roofing looks with the etchant compared to my methods.

Alan_H · May 2016

Hi Brett! I tried only to use the larger width when I had to get to the next laser cut line, as I knew I had less of it that the smaller width. I test fit each section, and on my third wall I had a small gap where I could see cardboard. I was concerned about proper fit up so I found something I can use & just have enough to rip a small amount. I'm going to have siding left so yes, there is plenty of material! I just wanted to point this out to others who haven't started yet. I could have used the smaller width but the overhang I would have had and the added thickness of the siding would have made ripping it hard. I guess I could have sanded it! This is my first board by board by the way.

Alan_H · May 2016

PS: Upon reading your instructions for the roof material, I don't intend to deviate. I also don't have any etchant handy and, with Radio Shack going away I'm not sure where I might find it without mail order. I did get good results with Floquil's Reefer Gray as a base coat with chalk and artist's oils layered on top of that on the last kit I built. This one is a learning experience in your methods however, so I'll be doing it your way!

KKarns · May 2016

Alan, I actually had plenty of Main Building siding left over after finishing up my walls. I used the wider boards sparingly and where they would show more. I liked the way Brett advised to break up the wall boarding into "logical sections" which helped with planning ahead. A slight gap here and there with the standard width boards looks great and you'll never see the sub-wall as the gaps are too small.

I just completed the detailing on my Main Building roof by the manual and it turned out great. I primed with grey primer, after it was dry...cooked it in the oven at 350 degrees for 5 minutes and weathered with chalks.

I would be concerned with trying to use etchant on such large panels as it may be difficult to control the results...Ken

Alan_H · May 2016

I too will have plenty of siding left. You nailed what I was trying to say. Be judicious in the use of the wider pieces. If I was starting over I would use them on the wide sections and the thin sections of the walls only (between the laser cut guidelines). Then there would be plenty of the wide stuff. I must have over done it a little! I could also be being a little over cautious. I really want this to turn out right. On the roof: enchant suggestion withdrawn. I took a look at the pieces and I agree, they are too big to use etchant comfortably. Now I need to make a Blicks run for some more chalk sticks!

Alan_H · May 2016

Finished the last main building walls. Twelve sticks of siding material plus drops left. Photos tomorrow after trimming. My wife has noted the absence of profanity through this evolution. Profanity is generally present when removing binds from brass steam engine mechanisms and similar activity. She is suggesting I build more structure kits.

KKarns · June 2016

Nice...look forward to seeing the walls. See it as therapy Alan!...Ken

Alan_H · June 2016

Thanks Ken. Here they are. I have to do nail holes and start on the windows now!

admin · June 2016

Looking mighty fine Alan. Those will create the perfect foundation for your dio!

KKarns · June 2016

Great progress and the walls are looking terrific. I love working on Brett's windows. So easy and look wonderfully prototypical...Ken

Mike Engler · June 2016

I've been taking my time and ambling along doing my walls, and really enjoying the build. Enjoying the non-pressure of this non-build thread. Here's a progress report- I did try nail holes and I can't see them from a foot away. My outside lighting has the color brighter than it is- I'm happy with it. The board-on-board is much fun and there are always refinements and new techniques. I think this is my twelfth SWSM kit so I should be starting to get the hang of it. In a day or two I will share a watch-out on staining meeting board-ends and toothpick knot holes.

admin · June 2016

Mike that's some wonderful work there. I am glad you have gotten the hang of it! Hah... Everybody's peeling paint is coming out so good.

Alan_H · June 2016

My opinion on nail holes: Less is more! (YMMV) Looks good! I have to get started on my doors and windows. I'm taking a break to read further ahead in the manual

Mike Engler · June 2016

Thanks Brett. This kit is your best presentation ever.
Here is a closer representation of the coloration I have.

nextceo · June 2016

Looks good Mike! Where is your famous Coke Sign in the window?

Alan

Mike Engler · June 2016

Thanks Alan- it's coming!

Wes · June 2016

Love the missing board on the 1 door Mike. Neat little touch that.

Mike Engler · June 2016

Thanks guys, and Wes the neat little touch of the missing board is straight outta Brett's manual.

All of the board-on-board building, and the use of pastels and alcohol to stain wood as opposed to the days when I used rubbing alcohol and India ink, presents new issues when detailing the wood. First, touching up the board-ends and dirtying them up before they are glued in place is so easy and fast with the chalk.

Sometimes you see board-ends or even knot-holes touched up by dabbing A/I where the boards meet up, after the boards are in place, and often with a large brush. This causes the staining to bleed onto both boards and the effect I don't think looks like actual weathering. The same thing can happen when touching up a knot hole that you drilled and filled with a clipped round toothpick. Better to stain the clipped toothpick before you put it in the hole.

The first photo shows the leeching staining, and the second is a black and white of lots of knotholes. The 2nd shows that the "knots" are usually a contrasting color, lighter or darker, than the boards, and the un-filled knot-"holes" appear very dark or black from even close-up viewing. But in any case there isn't any example of stain-weathering extending from the knot to its surrounding board.

I hope this can be a discussion as I'm sorry I don't have more descriptive pics, and hopefully some of you can provide some better examples. Another case of do as I say, not do as I do.

ironmountainlumber · June 2016

Great job on the build Mike.
Jim

Mike Engler · June 2016

A milestone on this build- I assembled the walls of the main building after first adding many of the details. Fun graining and staining as they say.

nextceo · June 2016

Looking good Michael...

Alan_H · June 2016

You're really bringing it along. I'm getting left in the dust here! Looks great. I didn't get as much done as I'd like this weekend, but I did get the nail holes done and am working on the doors & windows. I've found the resin impregnated paperboard to be pretty forgiving. It's stronger than it looks. I let the tape grab it too hard and had to tug on a couple of the pieces pretty hard to get them loose, but I didn't damage anything. I like this material, it's so much better looking than cast styrene doors & windows. No pics yet but soon! I'm glad you fellow builders are keeping me on my toes! (this duplicates an earlier post that seems to have vanished)

Alan H

jpcohen · June 2016

Hey everyone. I too have started the O'Neil's Fabrication build in HO. Let me share that this is the 5th kit from SW that I have built, to include one ship, all HO scale. I own 15 more HO SW kits that WILL ALL see build projects. They will not remain boxed on the shelf.

Here's a picture of my SW kits, currently waiting fabrication.

I am a disabled veteran and had to downsize into a mobile home 2 years ago. I am single and live alone, so a train room was not an issue. I started my layout in the smallest room, 9x11. The bench-work is in place except for a lift gate at the doorway, that can wait for now. The layout consist of multiple-integrated levels. The dateline is fall of 1959-60, yes that's an election season, Nixon vs Kennedy more fun than you can ever want modeling the election!. I run a Norfolk & Western main line, and a local industrial branch line (Fallen Pines). The branch line cars are kit or scratch built. The engines are kit-bashed. The layout is a fictional location that could exist in the blue ridge/ Norfolk VA harbor areas. Anyways back to the build project.

I have not documented this build as a build for forums. sorry. But I will be sharing progress photos. The first two project images that I will share, are proof that I am far from perfect, and mistakes happen on Joe's workbench. Both structures have two walls that I inverted, i.e. assembled backwards. I also glued the roof-top sign on upside down to the frame so it to was re-work. I was able to take the structures apart and fix them, so that the templates would work as Bret intended. Yes I changed the colors and some other small changes, I rarely build any craftsman kit fully prototypical, they all get some modifications.

I too want to go on the record as saying, this is by far my favorite SW kit, its a joy to build and worthy of any layout. I would even say that O'Neil's Fabrication is one of my all-time top 3 craftsman kit builds.

nextceo · June 2016

Thanks for sharing your pictures..it seems you're moving right along on your O'Neills build. The boards on your tower structure look quite old giving it a neat contrasting appearance vs your loading dock.

Keep the pictures coming...
Alan

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HO O'Neill's Fabrication Non-build thread

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