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Logging & Tractor Repair Shed in O Scale
Hey Gang,
I'm going to "attempt" my first O Scale Build. The plan is to recreate my HO Scale Build of the Logging and Tractor Repair shed with the additional shed. This time around, I'm going to use part of the Sierrawest Boiler House kit to recreate that additional shed. I'm also going to implement some greater elevation changes as it adds more interest. If you've seen my HO Build of this kit, you would have seen a Fordson Tractor in that additional shed. To kick things off and to get comfortable with the larger O Scale, I began with assembling that tractor.
The kit I'm building comes from Anvil Mountain...and is now available for sale thru Wiseman Model Services.
The first step is to blacken all the Metal Pieces of the tractor with Jax Blacking Solution. This gives the metal some "bite" and allows the paint to stick to the parts.
After blacking the parts and letting them sit in water for 10 minutes, they are pulled out and set to dry on a paper towel. I then painted them with Dove Gray Craft paint. After letting the paint dry for a few hours, I used a 1/4 inch piece of strip wood and rubbed it over the various parts to scrap off a portion of the paint. I also tapped it against the wheels to create worn spots.
I then brushed on another coat of the Jax Blacking Agent to get the scratch marks to "pop". Again, into the water and then onto the paper towel to dry. After the first pass of this, I felt there were too many worn marks so I added some paint, allowed it to dry and repeated the process until I got it the way I wanted.
Assembly is simply that...I followed the exploding instructions that came with the kit. I'm not going to lie...I hate these kind of instructions as they are quite confusing to follow and in the end, I had 4 pieces left over that I'm still not quite sure where they go. Super Glue Gel was the glue of choice to hold the tractor together. To create the faint rust marks around the radiator cap and on the engine, I used a new product for me - the AK Washes. I also used their Grease and Engine Oil Products to help dirty up the engine and other parts of the tractor. I used a razor blade and tapped on the edges of the wheels to give the rubber that worn and stressed look.
The final steps were to rub on some lead that I shaved off a pencil from the local golf course, onto the seat and the various levers to give those area that worn look. I then brushed on some dirt around the engine and wheels and that's it.
Next up is the construction of the Shed...after I return from vacation...
I'm going to "attempt" my first O Scale Build. The plan is to recreate my HO Scale Build of the Logging and Tractor Repair shed with the additional shed. This time around, I'm going to use part of the Sierrawest Boiler House kit to recreate that additional shed. I'm also going to implement some greater elevation changes as it adds more interest. If you've seen my HO Build of this kit, you would have seen a Fordson Tractor in that additional shed. To kick things off and to get comfortable with the larger O Scale, I began with assembling that tractor.
The kit I'm building comes from Anvil Mountain...and is now available for sale thru Wiseman Model Services.
The first step is to blacken all the Metal Pieces of the tractor with Jax Blacking Solution. This gives the metal some "bite" and allows the paint to stick to the parts.
After blacking the parts and letting them sit in water for 10 minutes, they are pulled out and set to dry on a paper towel. I then painted them with Dove Gray Craft paint. After letting the paint dry for a few hours, I used a 1/4 inch piece of strip wood and rubbed it over the various parts to scrap off a portion of the paint. I also tapped it against the wheels to create worn spots.
I then brushed on another coat of the Jax Blacking Agent to get the scratch marks to "pop". Again, into the water and then onto the paper towel to dry. After the first pass of this, I felt there were too many worn marks so I added some paint, allowed it to dry and repeated the process until I got it the way I wanted.
Assembly is simply that...I followed the exploding instructions that came with the kit. I'm not going to lie...I hate these kind of instructions as they are quite confusing to follow and in the end, I had 4 pieces left over that I'm still not quite sure where they go. Super Glue Gel was the glue of choice to hold the tractor together. To create the faint rust marks around the radiator cap and on the engine, I used a new product for me - the AK Washes. I also used their Grease and Engine Oil Products to help dirty up the engine and other parts of the tractor. I used a razor blade and tapped on the edges of the wheels to give the rubber that worn and stressed look.
The final steps were to rub on some lead that I shaved off a pencil from the local golf course, onto the seat and the various levers to give those area that worn look. I then brushed on some dirt around the engine and wheels and that's it.
Next up is the construction of the Shed...after I return from vacation...
Comments
Karl.A
Alan
It's a great little kit, I loved building mine from the BlueSky kit, such fun.
Wall looks fantastic too, so much detail and interest, but none of it overdone, nails 'n' knots' are just dead on, had to look for some of the knots, but when I saw them, then I saw more of them, perfect.
Karl.A
Oil and grease stains on the tractor are very subtle and convincing.
I foresee some interesting topography happening again, looking forward to this one.
Karl.A
Conversion: 1/4 inch = 1 Scale Foot in O scale.
I'm now in the process of working thru the 100s of castings. Here are a few I finished yesterday.
To detail a few of the techniques I used:
- High Boy - For the finish, I used a one step Chipping Process. Primed it in black, painted it a rust color brown, sprayed it with hair spray, painted it orange (gives the final yellow color a more dense look, painted it yellow and then used water and a brush to give it the chipped look. The rag is made from painting a piece of Kleenex.
-Wheel Barrow - For the finish, I used a Double Chipping Process. Primed it black, painted it a rust color brown, sprayed it with hair spray, painted it a silver, sprayed it with hair spray and then painted it red. I used water and a brush to give it the chipped look.
The key is to let each coat of paint dry. For the Primer Coat, I waited a week for it to cure. This way if (or acutally when in my case) had to strip off the layers of paint, the Primer would hold up. For the rest of the coats of paint, I just waited over night before applying the next coat. Also make sure to wait a few hours between applying air spray and another coat of paint otherwise you will get a bubbling effect under the coat of paint (which you don't want). When I didn't get the effect I was looking for...which happened a few times, I just soaked the casting in rubbing alcohol and scrubbed it with a brush to take the casting back down to the Primer Coat.
I think most us know that most modeling doesn't happen exactly the way we want it the first time so don't be afraid to start over and try again.
That is all for now...
Alan
SteveF
I know its been a while since I posted on this build, but besides playing a lot of golf, I've been busy educating myself on the techniques that are used by those guys that build those awesome looking Military Vehicles. Using their techniques, here is the process I followed on one of the 2 tractors that goes with the Repair Shed Kit.
My camera didnt take the best of pictures and I cant figure out how to make the size of them bigger on the new forum...hence, its kinda difficult to see all the weathering but here we go....
I want to preference this post by saying I'm not affiliated with AK Interactive in anyway...but that I chose to use a bunch of their products to get my results. To produce the chipped paint, I first primed the tractor with black paint. After waiting 48 hours for it to cure, I painted it with AK Interactive's Chipping Color. Because I have no patience, I chose a method to keep the process moving. After waiting about 5 minutes, I took a hot air gun to the tractor for 30 seconds to help the paint dry. I then coated it with a layer of Worn Effects from AK Interactive. Applying this solution allows me to chip away the layer of paint I applied on top of it. I first used Hairspray but since that itsnt really designed for modeling, it caused the top layer of paint to bubble. A quick note, AK Interactive also has a Hard Chipping Solution but since I like the control the Worn Effects solution offers - requires more scrubbing to get the paint to chip off, I chose it instead. Again, I waited 5 minutes and then used the heat gun. Next I applied a layer of Gray Paint from Reaper Paints. Waited 5 mins and then used the Hot Gun for 30 Secs.
Now the fun part starts. I wet a brush with tap water and started rubbing it against the Gray layer of paint exposing the Rust Colored Chipping Color. I also used a needle to create scratch marks. After this step was completed, I applied another coat of Worn Effects Solution - Dry for 5 Mins - Heat Gun for 30 Sec. I then applied a coat of Green...which I found in the Brett's Sierrawest Paint Set from Reaper. Again, dry for 5 mins and Heat Gun for 30 secs. Next I wet a brush with tap water and started rubbing it against the green layer of paint exposing the Gray Color and the Rust Colored Chipping Color. Again, I also used a needle to create scratches.
After I got the chipping the way I wanted it, I applied a little White mixed with Yellow Oil colors from Windsor (gave me a pale yellow) and blended it with White Sprits from AK Interactive. This gave me the nice color which made it appear as if the green color was faded in certain areas. After letting the Pale Yellow dry for 5 mins, I used a brush dipped in the White Spirts to thin it out and remove what I didn't like.
The next step was to add streaks. For this I used Streaking Grime and Rust Streaks - yep, you guessed it...both products from AK Interactive. This stuff does an awesome job. Just apply it like paint to areas you want streaking. Don't worry if you put on too much or the streaking line you drew is crooked. After it dries for a few minutes, use a brush dripped in White Spirits and wipe down across the streaks you created to lighten and shape them. After a few passes with the White Spirits, you will actually end up removing the streak and have to redo it. In my case, I probably removed some of the streaks 3 or 4 times before I got them the way I wanted.
For the Tracks, I primed them with the Track Color Primer from AK Interactive. After letting them dry for 30 minutes, I used the Dark Rust color paint from AK Interactive by dipping my brush in the paint and then flicked it against a tooth pick to create little spray or splash marks across the tracks. After waiting 5 minutes, I used Light Rust color paint and did the same thing. Finally, I brushed on AK Interactive's Light Dust Deposits on each of the tracks. The reason this solution is so good is because when it dries, it leaves behind a nice residue of dirt in the nooks and cranies that you cant get by just brushing on dirt. To expose the metal on the high spots of the tracks, I used a sanding stick to remove the paint and expose the metal underneath.
All the points where I want to add worn out metal such as on the various handles, I used AK Interactive's Dark Steel Pigment. You can get the same affect with pencil lead but since this product already comes in a powder format, its easier to work with, For the areas I wanted to represent Grease, I applied AK Interactive's Grease Product.
And that is all. Next up is the Cat Tractor...
David
Just catching up on your build here. Beautiful stuff so far. Will you be adding some dry mud build up around the running gear?
Next up is to finish the castings and then construct the Repair Shed.