I decided to make some modifications to my original Repair Shed Diorama. First I ripped up the HO Scale standard size track and replaced it with narrow gauge track which I felt better fit in with the Backwoods theme. I also tore out all the plaster rock work at the back of the building and replaced it with the higher detailed Geosedic product from Bragdon Enterprises. While I was back there, I added a scrap area where were old broken parts end up.
I added a new video to YouTube that better displays the inside of the Shed along with the Welding Activity (which comes near the end of the 1 minute clip). Yes, I added some real cobwebs in the rafters to help with the backwoods feel. Make sure you have your sound turned up to get the full feel of the scene...it takes place as dawn breaks in South Western Colorado at the Deer Creek Lumber Company's Repair Shed on August 20th, 1927.
In addition to the fine work, I'll second what Phil said about the backdrop. I'm not a big fan of photo backdrops on a layout because usually there's a point where it's obvious that the model stops and the backdrop begins. However, a picture of nothing but sky has opened my eyes to new possibilities.
How did you like working with the Bragdon resin? I'm a firm believer that you get MUCH better detail from the molds using the resin compared to plaster. But I don't like dealing with degreasing and priming the casting with Gesso before coloring it.
I'm also diggin your tall pines! Are those ming fern for the branches? The bark looks like the sifted sawdust & glue method. I can't remember if you discussed this in the build thread, but I'd sure like to have a look at a step-by-step on how you did it!
Again, another outstanding model from the Alan Nextco art studio!!
Just got around to viewing the video. Good lighting and arc welding effects. Really sets the mood. What did you use for lamp bulbs. I assume you are using LED's. David
In regards to the Bragdon Resin (aka Geosedic), in my Machine Shop build thread I did go thru step by step the process of using that product and compared it to using plaster. In a nut shell, I thought it was going to be easier and quicker to work with vs plaster...it wasn't. It actually is messier and you don't want that resin stuff getting on your figures cause it really sucks trying to get it off. With all that said, I would chose the Geosedic product everytime over plaster because its superior detail and the ability to shape the castings into any shape you need within the first 15-20 minutes of it being created. The gesso isn't an issue because you just apply it to the completed castings like a white paint before you add colors to the rock formations. It creates a good base that allows the colors to stick to the castings.
In regards to the pine trees, I get the kits from the scenic factory. I buy the naked wood trunks and then apply his powder bark to them...add a wash of Indian Ink and finish with some of the Rembrandt chalks. I use to make my own trunks from a piece of balsa wood but for the price, its worth the time savings to have a perfectly shaped tree. The branches are also supplied by the scenic factory and look like little ferns. The only thing I'll do differently next time when creating one of these trees is to prebend the branches before applying them as many of them appear too straight or flat in the pictures.
Thanks for watching the video David. Yes, you are correct. I use Micro LEDs that are precolored with that warm inside light appearance. I use 5111 resistors to really dim down the brightness so they don't flood the interior with too much light.
Hope that answers most/all of your questions... Alan
catching up on some threads. Awesome build - I really love this diorama- not just the building and lighting but the landscaping and attention to the background with the rock outcropping, and a slight rise to the background to mesh with the sky, It all hangs together very well. the grass and vegetation too are very compelling.
I'm about to start this kit and have discovered it is missing template "A". I think it would be difficult to try to make this kit without the template as it is the front wall. My hope is that you still have the kit and could make a copy of the template for me. Thanks.
Comments
How did you like working with the Bragdon resin? I'm a firm believer that you get MUCH better detail from the molds using the resin compared to plaster. But I don't like dealing with degreasing and priming the casting with Gesso before coloring it.
I'm also diggin your tall pines! Are those ming fern for the branches? The bark looks like the sifted sawdust & glue method. I can't remember if you discussed this in the build thread, but I'd sure like to have a look at a step-by-step on how you did it!
Again, another outstanding model from the Alan Nextco art studio!!
What did you use for lamp bulbs. I assume you are using LED's.
David
In regards to the Bragdon Resin (aka Geosedic), in my Machine Shop build thread I did go thru step by step the process of using that product and compared it to using plaster. In a nut shell, I thought it was going to be easier and quicker to work with vs plaster...it wasn't. It actually is messier and you don't want that resin stuff getting on your figures cause it really sucks trying to get it off. With all that said, I would chose the Geosedic product everytime over plaster because its superior detail and the ability to shape the castings into any shape you need within the first 15-20 minutes of it being created. The gesso isn't an issue because you just apply it to the completed castings like a white paint before you add colors to the rock formations. It creates a good base that allows the colors to stick to the castings.
In regards to the pine trees, I get the kits from the scenic factory. I buy the naked wood trunks and then apply his powder bark to them...add a wash of Indian Ink and finish with some of the Rembrandt chalks. I use to make my own trunks from a piece of balsa wood but for the price, its worth the time savings to have a perfectly shaped tree. The branches are also supplied by the scenic factory and look like little ferns. The only thing I'll do differently next time when creating one of these trees is to prebend the branches before applying them as many of them appear too straight or flat in the pictures.
Thanks for watching the video David. Yes, you are correct. I use Micro LEDs that are precolored with that warm inside light appearance. I use 5111 resistors to really dim down the brightness so they don't flood the interior with too much light.
Hope that answers most/all of your questions...
Alan
Alan
Jim Overman - jloverman@gmail.com