Thanks Ken. I have the new Sierra West Reaper paint set so I'll try the combo above to apply the tar seals on my railroad camp build. I also like the idea of a light chalk dusting to complete the look. SteveF
Looks really good Ken, and giving me something to shoot for. I lost the whole week due to out of town company. Had fun, but no time for O'Neill's! The long weekend will hopefully allow me to catch up!
I noticed my first wall curled a bit, even though I was pretty sparing in my application of glue. Enough to do the job but little to no oozing. Did you use any additional bracing to stiffen & straighten?
Did you (or anyone else working) notice a tendency for the shims under the door and window frames to stick out from under the actual frame members? It's easily remedied by a single edged razor blade and it is a very small amount of material, but enough to keep the siding "off the line". Test fitting before gluing is a must!
No worries on the minor warping of the walls. Brett outlines this in the manual as "to be expected" and is easily corrected by both the addition of the corner trim AND the installation of the interior corner braces when putting the walls together. These are great and serve to straighten the walls and add support.
I did not have any issues with the shims sticking out. Make sure you're using the correct wood of course which I'm sure you did (.012 x 1/16" x 4").
You nailed the last comment Alan, always fit things up "dry" before gluing to make any fine adjustments, I have caught myself on several occasions about ready to use the wrong wood but a dry fitting revealed my error!
Did I mention how awesome this O'Neills kit is? Probably have! Anyway, will be posting an update soon. All the Tower details are done and the Tower, concrete loading dock, and Main Building are going together as an attached grouping...more later...Ken
I added bracing and corner bracing to the tower but its best to leave it a little short at top and bottom to allow space for some of the card corner or square angle spacers. I only used half of those corner spaces 4 rather than 8 in opposing corners at the opposite ends if that make sense. No shim or insufficient wood problems.
Right, some folks like to use braces on their walls and if that's what you're comfortable with I'm sure they would work fine here with a bit of planning ahead for clearance. The corner braces Brett supplies have the benefit of adding a good bit of stiffness to the walls as well as taking out any minor warp that may be there.
There was some discussion regarding the roof treatment. Brett outlines a great method which calls for priming the ribbed seam roof with great primer, let dry, then bake in the oven at 350 degrees for 5 minutes, when cool weather with the listed chalks.
I did exactly as the manual except I didn't have any of the Mars Violet (538.3) so I substituted 339.3 which had a slight reddish cast to it as the Mars Violet does. And knew if I didn't like the results I would just order some Mars Violet and go over it again. This of course was done after the other suggested rust colored chalks were used.
Here is the initial coloring and weathering of my Main Building roof. The final weathering and highlights come after it is installed on the building...Ken
Oh...if you're not following along this build at the moment, I should clarify the first image of the roof. It appears to be on one large flat piece, but actually is both side of the same roof that is then folded along a pre cut ridge line...see below. This roof also comes with adhesive already on the board backing with marked spacing lines for an effortless installation...Ken
Great Ken I like the look of your roof. I shall now have a go at mine. Its baked and fitted to the boards waiting for me to venture with the chalks and I have the Mars Violet. As I live in the "backwoods", well WhitSundays Australia really, I have to buy most things by post, often from overseas, which I do for new materials as soon as a kit arrived.
Right, I just failed to get my Marts Violet ordered but I knew my 339.3 was close. It looks a bit more brownish in the picture but it is on the reddish/purple side in reality. I just attached it to the main building and am detailing and getting ready to attach the addition roof...Ken
Couldn't resist snapping and outdoor shot while the sun was out to give a more accurate representation of the color I achieved. Main roof attached and the final detailing yet to go and then the addition roof goes on...more later...Ken
The colors on the roof are right on and a refreshing look from the typical rusted panels. I continue to be amazed at how you can achieve such heavy weathering without getting things muddy. Thanks for sharing all of your thoughts along the way.
Brett, the design, textures and details of O'Neil's has set the bar for all other kit manufacturers. As I've said before, I can't wait to get this in O scale. SteveF
Thanks Brett...and that's why I only build yours! I was a tickled how close the 339.3 came to the target color.
Thanks Michael, I'm the king of crappy backgrounds on my pictures I think. I'll have to be mindful of that in the future. As I said was anxious to get a shot up of the roof panels in the midst of discussion...
Steve, you got it...Brett's a genius...as I was also skeptical of the roof color that was called for just as I was the green color of the the door trim on the Main Building. Both turned out perfectly fitting for O'Neills! Brett does an amazing amount of research into the color and treatment choices for his kits...I know this for a fact. Way more time than any of us could or would want to do. So when he makes a color or treatment choice in the manual you can bet it's going to work seamlessly and be in keeping with creating the character and "flavor" of the end product.
Appreciate that Alan. Right, the streaks are subtile use of chalks. I carefully looked for little cracks or indentations and from there formed the streaks of water staining, rust staining, etc.
Thanks for checking in Phil and glad you like it. I love how the roof is turning out...see comments above!
Ken Could you tell us a bit more about how you found the chalk application on the roof. The instructions are clear but initially the chalk mainly just brushed off. I then re-brushed mine over and over with the first three chalks as fine as possible. I even resorted to using the big finger from the sky but the roofs are still very light in comparison to yours. I have applied the Mars Violet which darkened it but I am considering another brushing session. Its a great method, much better than any etching and much more controllable, but I think mine is too light at this stage.
Michael, I didn't have any trouble getting a good controllable amount of coverage with my chalks. As Brett instructs, I covered my roof sheets with a spray primer. After the first coat but before putting in the oven to cure, I decided to give it a second coat. I thought the primer I used didn't give a good even coverage and I knew I wanted good coverage to allow the chalks something to bite and cling to. The second coat was much better and I followed with my rust palate of chalks, then the "Mars Violet" and didn't have any issues with coverage as you see in the photos. I used a good heavy application and a medium to stiff brush and "stabbed" straight down as well as brush to get a nice application.
Thanks Dustin, nice hearing from you. should be finishing up the Main building and Tower assembly soon. So many nifty little details!
My spray primer was a bit thin and did not have any "bit". Also I used a soft brush not a stiff one. Maybe another chalking and a stiff brush with some "stabbing. Thanks.
Michael, I thought mine a bit thin as well and gave it a second coat. I went fairly heavy on the chalks to get a nice coverage. Working on the fascia, rafters, and rafter tails...finish up the three stacks and the other sign and the Main Building and Tower assembly will be done...updates soon...Ken
O'Neills is coming along well. The Main Building and Tower assembly is now complete. From last post I have completed the roof to include the ridge cap, which is just paper cut and colored with paint and chalk to match the roof and glued in place being careful NOT to press it down between the raised ridges of the roof panels. The fascia and rafters and rafters tails have been detailed an installed. The additional sign that mounts on the roof was detailed as before and glued in place. The three main roof vents were detailed and glued to the roof and the "tar" seals were applied and detailed. The large "L" shaped vent casting was detailed and installed on the side of the addition complete with the support rods. I am now poised to begin the Welding Shop...really starting to look like something!
Wowza that looks nice. The accumulation of dirt and grime are convincing but not overpowering. The streaks also just right without being too pronounced. I like how you streaked the grime from the roof vents. Usually, this would be a rust streak, but with the rusted roof, you chose the right color. Here's an interesting thought, how about a line of rust accumulation (subtle) on the tarpaper where water would have run off of the ribbed roof above?
You need to use a shorter static grass. The scenery looks out of scale.
Looks great Ken. I think photographing outside is a great way to show your modelling skills. I must try it be being careful of the tropical sun intensity even in winter. I am very much a point zoom and shoot photo person. An enormous and stunning progress step since last time. Hopefully a few tips to progress to this stage? I have the roofs ready, the "pewter" paper fitted and the rather wood stained but waited to see what i could learn for you before taking the next step. I also weight down the unglued roof with one inch angle blocks so it takes close to the required shape prior to gluing. I am now studying each picture carefully, not sure if I can blow them up for a closer look for clues and ideas?
Yeah Bryan, Ken's static grass is like his graining on page 8. Ken, really coming together beautifully. You really are a master of dirt and grime. Always just the right amount David U
Thanks Bryan...what you don't like my tropical diorama? My O'Neills is going to be based in Fiji...Great that you noticed and commented on the color of the weathering below the stacks. Interesting thought on the drip weathering...hmm
Appreciate that Michael. Sounds like you are ready to make some nice progress yourself.
David, nice to know I'm known for dirt and grime...a compliment in the modeling world I hope. Thanks again...and my concrete pour for O'Neills was a bit coarse I think...
Great work and progress Ken. I continue to be in awe on the level of weathering you use without ever looking muddy. I like the subtle differences from board to board on the siding. I especially like the broken glass in the windows and doors. It matches the level of weathering throughout the structure. The seam on the tower's tarpaper awning looks to be highlighted. Is that the lighting or need you use a light pastel to add the detail? Having just finished the tar paper roof on my warehouse, I realize how many variations there is when weathering with the pastels. I'm really enjoying watching all of your techniques as your build is coming together. SteveF
Comments
SteveF
Thanks Alan, gives me time to keep ahead just ever so much...of course not a race but a great journey...too much fluff huh?
I noticed my first wall curled a bit, even though I was pretty sparing in my application of glue. Enough to do the job but little to no oozing. Did you use any additional bracing to stiffen & straighten?
Did you (or anyone else working) notice a tendency for the shims under the door and window frames to stick out from under the actual frame members? It's easily remedied by a single edged razor blade and it is a very small amount of material, but enough to keep the siding "off the line". Test fitting before gluing is a must!
No worries on the minor warping of the walls. Brett outlines this in the manual as "to be expected" and is easily corrected by both the addition of the corner trim AND the installation of the interior corner braces when putting the walls together. These are great and serve to straighten the walls and add support.
I did not have any issues with the shims sticking out. Make sure you're using the correct wood of course which I'm sure you did (.012 x 1/16" x 4").
You nailed the last comment Alan, always fit things up "dry" before gluing to make any fine adjustments, I have caught myself on several occasions about ready to use the wrong wood but a dry fitting revealed my error!
Did I mention how awesome this O'Neills kit is? Probably have! Anyway, will be posting an update soon. All the Tower details are done and the Tower, concrete loading dock, and Main Building are going together as an attached grouping...more later...Ken
No shim or insufficient wood problems.
There was some discussion regarding the roof treatment. Brett outlines a great method which calls for priming the ribbed seam roof with great primer, let dry, then bake in the oven at 350 degrees for 5 minutes, when cool weather with the listed chalks.
I did exactly as the manual except I didn't have any of the Mars Violet (538.3) so I substituted 339.3 which had a slight reddish cast to it as the Mars Violet does. And knew if I didn't like the results I would just order some Mars Violet and go over it again. This of course was done after the other suggested rust colored chalks were used.
Here is the initial coloring and weathering of my Main Building roof. The final weathering and highlights come after it is installed on the building...Ken
I shall now have a go at mine. Its baked and fitted to the boards waiting for me to venture with the chalks and I have the Mars Violet. As I live in the "backwoods", well WhitSundays Australia really, I have to buy most things by post, often from overseas, which I do for new materials as soon as a kit arrived.
Brett, the design, textures and details of O'Neil's has set the bar for all other kit manufacturers. As I've said before, I can't wait to get this in O scale.
SteveF
Thanks Michael, I'm the king of crappy backgrounds on my pictures I think. I'll have to be mindful of that in the future. As I said was anxious to get a shot up of the roof panels in the midst of discussion...
Steve, you got it...Brett's a genius...as I was also skeptical of the roof color that was called for just as I was the green color of the the door trim on the Main Building. Both turned out perfectly fitting for O'Neills! Brett does an amazing amount of research into the color and treatment choices for his kits...I know this for a fact. Way more time than any of us could or would want to do. So when he makes a color or treatment choice in the manual you can bet it's going to work seamlessly and be in keeping with creating the character and "flavor" of the end product.
Appreciate that Alan. Right, the streaks are subtile use of chalks. I carefully looked for little cracks or indentations and from there formed the streaks of water staining, rust staining, etc.
Thanks for checking in Phil and glad you like it. I love how the roof is turning out...see comments above!
Could you tell us a bit more about how you found the chalk application on the roof. The instructions are clear but initially the chalk mainly just brushed off. I then re-brushed mine over and over with the first three chalks as fine as possible. I even resorted to using the big finger from the sky but the roofs are still very light in comparison to yours. I have applied the Mars Violet which darkened it but I am considering another brushing session.
Its a great method, much better than any etching and much more controllable, but I think mine is too light at this stage.
Thanks Dustin, nice hearing from you. should be finishing up the Main building and Tower assembly soon. So many nifty little details!
You need to use a shorter static grass. The scenery looks out of scale.
An enormous and stunning progress step since last time. Hopefully a few tips to progress to this stage? I have the roofs ready, the "pewter" paper fitted and the rather wood stained but waited to see what i could learn for you before taking the next step. I also weight down the unglued roof with one inch angle blocks so it takes close to the required shape prior to gluing.
I am now studying each picture carefully, not sure if I can blow them up for a closer look for clues and ideas?
Ken, really coming together beautifully. You really are a master of dirt and grime. Always just the right amount
David U
Appreciate that Michael. Sounds like you are ready to make some nice progress yourself.
David, nice to know I'm known for dirt and grime...a compliment in the modeling world I hope. Thanks again...and my concrete pour for O'Neills was a bit coarse I think...
SteveF