Howdy, Stranger!
It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!
Categories
- 959 All Categories
- 3 Picture Posting and Resizing
- 56 New Member Introductions
- 115 Off-Topic Forum
- 4 Photography
- 2 Resources
- 16 New Product Information
- 167 The SierraWest Forum
- 9 Brett's Blog
- 119 General News & Ramblings
- 3 Re-Release Information
- 6 Q & A about SierraWest
- 9 What Would You Like to See?
- 388 Builds
- 141 HO Scale Builds
- 168 O Scale Builds
- 60 Finished SW Build Pics
- 14 Miscellaneous Builds
- 190 Techniques
- 19 Working with Wood
- 20 Painting Castings
- 5 Masonry
- 23 Scenery
- 37 Tools and Supplies
- 21 Layout Planning & Building
- 40 Miscellaneous
- 24 Prototype Information
- 22 Reference and Research
Comments
The toothpick knotholes and saw blade banding are certainly not required but are recommended to be tried as Brett has developed these techniques over years of modeling experience and he knows what looks right for the particular application. I love how Brett introduces new detailing techniques and I just have to try each and every one and work at it until I feel I have perfected it to my modeling expectations. Knotholes can be done before or after staining however you will have to detail the knotholes to blend and highlight the freshly exposed wood if done after. Saw blade banding ideally should be done before staining as the technique will expose small amounts of fresh wood that would have to be dealt with and would be difficult to blend effectively after staining.
SteveF
Alan, I like using toothpicks for my knot holes as it allows you to vary the size of the knot depending on how far you stick the tooth pick in and how big your initial hole is. broom straw tends to just give you one size. I sharpen the end of my toothpicks with sandpaper first to a fine point which is even smaller than a broom straw. Also when you cut your toothpick off it will "crush" just a bit giving a less than perfectly round knot which is ideal. Broom straw...not so much.
I did not use saw blade banding on my Loco Shop and Brett has described this technique in previous kit manuals. I would suggest practicing on some spare stripwood to see how you like it. I'm not that good at it but Bill, Karl, and of course Brett and others are highly deft at the technique. Like most details, don't overdo it. less is more...Ken
Thanks for explaining the saw banding technique. I plan to use it on my warehouse structure.
SteveF
I also love that Brett has developed techniques that are indiscernable between scales, Your HO results using Bretts techniques are better than 95% of the other O scale stuff out there. Very impressive work.
Cant wait to see your next post, really enjoying this build of such a great kit.
Karl.A
(Don't forget to darken down the end of that one board on the far right on top of the awning roof in the last pic....)
Love the light peeking out of the missing panel of the door in the last picture.
Bryan, appreciate that and I really enjoy this part of the build. Yea, you like my aged diorama base? Thought that might get a few comments.
Dustin, nice hearing from you and thanks. Having a ball with this kit.
Karl, appreciate that my man and nice having you wade in here. Once the Main Building is in place on the diorama base I'll finish some minor detailing here. You are so right how Brett's kits bridge the scales seamlessly. Re-loading for the work on the Tower walls and details...Ahh...I see it Karl...good catch on the fresh area on that board.
Alan, Thanks and it's cool how just putting the walls together makes you feel like you have accomplished a great deal! On to "The Tower"...
Hey Bill, Right, the walls went together wonderfully and I was really pleased with the peeling paint effect Brett came up with for this siding. Looks good and very easy to do and control. I copied Brett's lead in the manual and removed that panel to good effect I think. Thanks for your critique, highly valued as always...
David U
Oh, you asked about the wood graining on page 8...I took some large nails and pounded them through a 1 x 10 board and then attached a chain to one end hooked it to my truck hitch and put a couple of snider blocks on top pot the board to add some weight and drug it over the wood...
Michael
Here is the same walls with the window and door openings trimmed out and the right and left walls with the full length trim on each side. Again, careful attention to fit and finish here is important.
Will do Michael...
will be installing the finished windows and doors today or tomorrow...Ken
Family photo of the Tower walls.
OK Michael, here is a close up of the details I performed on the right wall. Notice the slight darkening along the edges of the windows and doors that appear as shadows or weathering. Also the slightly darker vertical streaks at the corners of the window trim. This is all done in a very subtile manner or it doesn't work.
Rear wall with some great looking freight doors. Love the look of the transom and the slightly open door...wonderful design.
Left wall with its third story window.
Front wall with the door trim not installed until after the walls are together. A really cool staircase feeds off this door landing down to the elevated door on the Main building. Again, great design concepts at work here...well done Brett!