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HO Scale O'Neills Fabrication Official Forum Build

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Comments

  • Jerry
    Nice start Ken. Keep the updates coming.

    Jerry
  • Alan_HAlan_H
    Nothing wrong with smaller posts! It's easier on newcomers, and for those of us who like to check in at lunchtime, not too much to absorb. Learning to take your time is half the battle anyway. Rushing almost always ends up with a re-do, at least on my bench!
  • Mike EnglerMike Engler
    Ken, this will be great and I'm looking forward to the entertainment. To be a good model builder you need to have time, some money, and patience. But the most important of the three is patience. And to teach you how, buy one of Brett's kits. When I can't build anymore I'm going to still buy Brett's kits just to be able to read the manuals.
  • KKarnsKKarns
    edited March 2016
    Michael, Appreciate the thoughts on the door and window framing. Glad to hear the smaller posts are useful. I like seeing how a wall gets to where it is when finished.

    Thanks Wes. Right, just follow the manual as things come together one step at a time.

    Will do and thanks Jerry.

    Alan, what you mentioned is worth repeating to those new to fine scale modeling...take your time and work through the build per the manual and pay attention to the fine details of the build...you won't be sorry and is time well spent.

    Mike, hope I can keep it entertaining...we'll see.

    image

    Here is the Main Building Left Wall with the finished siding. Doors and windows will be put in when all the other walls have the siding put up. The exposed area will be completely covered up by the Addition. I added the "out of place" piece of strip wood to the right of the non boarded over area just to add a bit of support for that wall of the addition even though it will not show.
  • Alan_HAlan_H
    I'm really liking the look of the wall, and referencing the pictures on the main website I can see what part you are working on. The earlier pic showed just the bottom of this wall so, I'm assuming you have laser cut guides for where to stop the stripwood, correct? Then the addition just sits on top of what you have done? I'm really looking forward to mine, though I'm finishing a structure for the club at the moment. I couldn't start if I had it in hand, but it will be nice to get my fingers in the box!
  • KKarnsKKarns
    edited March 2016
    Thanks Alan, right, Brett has provided laser cut liners for both keeping the vertical boards plumb and lines to guide where to butt two boards together in the same row. The wall board also has reference marks for where the "Addition" is spotted keeping it level and in just the right place with the siding installed. You just board a bit over the lines marked for the "Addition" and you're good. The one board below the cut out that's the lowest is just over the laser cut line and the same for the top. These siding boards Brett provides are a bit thicker than the normal siding creating a fantastic look and a pleasure to detail, another SWSM first.
  • KKarnsKKarns
    Here is approx. where the "Addition" will go. What an awesome detail.image
  • KKarnsKKarns
    Oops wrong image...

    image
  • Michael_Pearce
    Ken Firstly great to know you are human with the wrong image.
    Brett has advised he is preparing a video on using the ivory paint. Have those boards been treated with the ivory paint and would you like to comment on how you found the process. I have stalled building waiting to see how folks tackled the ivory paint process?
  • KKarnsKKarns
    Michael, yes, the boards have been treated with the paint weathering technique exactly as outlined in the manual. You will be amazed at just how easy this process is and with wonderful results...Ken
  • Michael_Pearce
    Ken, So easy and quick once took your advice and started staining rather than pondering. It took longer to ensure I had the knotted side up than it took to stain. Working on the patio in our wonderful Queensland weather I had to be quick and very generous with the alcohol wash, but it worked really well. I had more trouble trying to find a non existent here, Ivory paint, but used some children's "buttermilk" paint that was suitable.
    I am now pondering the green I have used, heritage green. I have ordered the recommended color from the UK but doubt it will be here soon enough.
  • mayhaw9999
    edited March 2016
    Ken,
    Super start. I agree with Alan, small posts are good.

    David U
  • Coors2uCoors2u
    Ken, I love the look of that wood.
  • Karl.AKarl.A
    Fantastic progress Ken and the results are as to be expected of you... ie.. top quality.

    Great work so far and eager to see more....

    Karl.A
  • KKarnsKKarns
    Michael, sounds like you're moving along well. Brett points out using a substitute if you can't find the depicted color(s). Just don't stray too far from the designed colors as this is important to keep the character of O'Neills. Brett spends a huge amount of time and effort researching the color scheme and what works and what doesn't. Keep up the good progress.

    David, OK, so small posts seem OK to most everyone following along. Thanks for the encouragement on the ceremonial start!

    Dustin, I do to...Brett's method of weathering the siding is awesome and so easy. Perfectly controllable to whatever look you want.

    Karl, appreciate that buddy...I feel so comfortable working this fantastic kit up knowing you're right there...Thanks!

    I will be posting this week so stay tuned...working on the wonderful wall details of the main building...great stuff...Ken
  • KKarnsKKarns
    Finished Rear Wall of the Main Building. The bottom horizontal boards are placed for spacing for the resin "concrete" dock casting and will not show once complete. I went ahead and stained the boards with AI even though they won't show to improve the photographical depiction of the wall.

    image
    image

    Note the subtile nail holes on the board ends and the slight increased weathering along the bottom of the wall and where the boards meet the framing. Board on board allows for such varied detail to suit the builder.

    image

    Take off of Brett's idea in the manual to create a "dock accident" where something contacted the freight door framing at the bottom. Note the damage is to the outside trim that carries through to the interior trim contiguously. Love this type of detailing...more later...Ken
  • Michael_Pearce
    Ken I really like the slight increased weathering along the bottom of the boards. I must try that. Do you add some chalk to the tip of the tool you use to make the nail holes to make them a little more apparent? Maybe its just the close up photograph that makes them more obvious.
  • KCSTrainsKCSTrains
    Ken, as you know we have discussed nail holes at length. I really like the subtlety you used on these nail holes. They are there, but they aren't there. I will definitely try to emulate. See you next week. Phil
  • KKarnsKKarns
    Michael, I make the nail holes after adding the texture to the board ends then apply some dry chalk with my finger. After the boards are put in place I come back with a very fine pointed brush and hit the holes with a very small amount of AI. You're right, the close up shots certainly heighten the visibility of the nail holes.

    Hey Phil, I like how you put that "there, but they aren't there" just what I was after!...In 1:87 scale actual nail holes would be virtually invisible to the naked eye. What I am going for is just a hint they are there with the naked eye and just a bit obvious with the close up photography. Like many details, each one on its own may provide little impact to the overall structure or diorama. But, put multiple details together such as the case here with the nail holes, detailed boards ends where they butt together, more weathered boards along the bottom, a bit darker along the bottom where moisture would have a role, damaged lower trim, etc... and the impact is very apparent. Look forward to seeing you...Ken
  • WesWes
    More top notch modelling Ken. Look forward to seeing that resin dock come to life.

    The staining at the bottom of the boards is an often over looked detail many modelers miss. Thanks for pointing it out.
  • mayhaw9999
    I really like the "damage". Nail holes are just right. Phil's description is perfect.
    David U
  • KKarnsKKarns
    Hey Wes, Appreciate that and I can't keep straight all the cool features of O'Neills that I can't wait to get to and the resin dock is certainly one of them. I'm really looking forward to working up the doors and windows on the Main Building coming up. Almost as much fun as the siding. So important at this stage to work carefully and follow along the manual with the doors and windows, so much character is established here.

    David, Regarding the "damaged" area to the dock framing in the above image. One must keep in mind what will and will not be visible in the final diorama. I forgot to check this when I made that damaged area but fortunately when I went to O'Neills page here and checked the pilot model, it appears my damaged area will likely just show. In other words, why make a damaged area that will be covered by a stack of crates or something else in the finished diorama. Maximize these effects without having to re-arrange things just so it shows. Also, a prime example of why Brett's HO and O scale page photos and and the manual images are so useful when building the kit.

    Should be finishing up the Main Building walls this weekend and then on to the windows and doors as I mentioned...Ken
    image
    Carefully going over the window and door details coming up...I'm working!.....
  • Michael_Pearce
    Ken Could you please explain the way and order you added the extra weathering at the bottom of the boards. Did you follow the manual and add over length boards, cut back and then add the weathering? I tried adding the weathering before fitting the boards but found getting the board length correct not so straightforward.
  • Michael_Pearce
    Ken Your cut wall edges look so great I would appreciate knowing whether you used a side cutter or if you used lots of slow passes of a blade in the "traditional" manner please?
  • KKarnsKKarns
    Hi Michael, I like adding the weathering before fitting the boards as it gives me complete control of the process. I place the unweathered board perfectly level with the bottom of the wall template and while holding if firmly in place mark the spot where I am going to cut it with a small mark with my #11 blade. Of course this is marked only where boards will be butted together or under a window or door sill. If the board goes goes the full length then I let it overhang the top and trim later after they are all in place. I then take the board and cut where marked and then weather both ends and glue in place keeping the bottom lined up flush.

    As Brett details in the manual, the siding of O'Neils Main building is thicker than was used in previous builds. This thickness gives a wonderful look and texture to the siding but is hard to trim with the standard passes with a #11 blade. Brett recommends trimming the excess with side cutters and follow with a light sanding with a True Sander or equivalent. I trimmed my walls this way and it was easy and worked perfectly. Just sand lightly and check your progress often as you do not want to sand into the template.
  • Michael_Pearce
    Thanks Ken. I shall follow yours and Brett's advice. The laser guidelines on the templates makes getting the boards square really easy, perfect for people like me, apprentices in this field having started well into retirement. Between the excellent manual and your build and tips the next level of help would be someone actually building it for me.
  • MikeMMikeM
    edited March 2016
    This may be a bit sacrilegious but shouldn't harm the tool I wouldn't think; anyone tried a pair of flush cutters (e.g. rail cutters) for this kind of task? My main concern would be whether they would cut wood cleanly enough, not crush the ends given the comparative softness of the material.
  • KKarnsKKarns
    Michael, there you go...follow the manual and things will come together very nicely. Hey, I love the laser guidelines as well...keeps the vertical plumb as well as providing guides for butting boards together and allowing you to break the template into sections for applying the siding so the board count comes out perfect.

    Mike, not an issue with the cuts being very clean and then with a light sanding they come up spot on. I have posted a close up of just such a wall (O'Neills Rear Wall) trimmed with a pair of sprue cutters and lightly sanded. I believe anything that would make a nice straight vertical cut would work fineimage
  • MuddyCreekRRMuddyCreekRR
    edited March 2016
    Really like the texture and color....I gave up on the HO years back....fingers grew too big...and eyes too small....as stated,,,those nail holes are just....there....keep up the fine work....hope to see/meet some of you in Danvers...
  • KKarnsKKarns
    Thanks much Art. We'll hopefully hook-up at the show.

    I will not be posting until I return from the 2016 EXPO and leave Wednesday morning. Until then...don't get too far ahead...Ken
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