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Comments
I applied a second, darker and coarser, layer of dirt after the initial layer shown earlier. Lets regress a bit, and remember this is not how to do it but how I do it. Paths, walkways, trails, etc are typically lighter in color and smooth compared to the surrounding dirt and debris. What is difficult, but important to overcome, is having a path border too bold and defined. The edges should gradually blend into the surrounding edges. The color of the dirt should be lighter but close to the same base color as it is the same dirt, just packed down and smooth from foot traffic or whatever.
So back to what I'm doing here. As you can see in the image, I placed the template cut out, as instructed in the manual, over the outline of the Main Building. I also marked and covered the small areas where the Addition supports and stairways were located as I built these all on the same level surface as the Main Building. I then applied my second layer of dirt. I wanted the area under the Addition and the areas leading out from the door that is under there to be worn and smooth from the foot traffic. However, this is a bit harder to do once the building is set in place. You have two basic options; one is to make the dirt layer fine and smooth and then add the coarse OR make the dirt layer a bit coarse and then smooth it where you want...and that's what I do.
Regress again...The beauty of working with a layer of slightly coarser dirt is in the simplicity and effect of how paths and walkways can be made. once the dirt layer is fully dry paths are made by simply rubbing your finger over the area you want. This will naturally smooth the area, lighten the color just right, and provide a smooth transition to the coarser areas at the sides.
Back to the plan here. So I temporarily placed the Main Building on the diorama and decided where the smooth area and path should be that would be hard to get to once the structure was in place. I then removed it and "installed" the area as can be seen in the photo. I brought the smooth area out just enough to where I could continue on with the building glued down.
This is awfully long winded but the technique will be used throughout the rest of the diorama construction so you can see how it evolves. If any, or all of it, is confusing please ask for clarification!
Note smoothed area under where the addition would obstruct access.
"path" leading from under addition that can now be easily picked up and continued unobstructed.
I decided to add the worn area leading from the bottom of the stairs before setting the building. This literally took 10 seconds to do. I will refine it once the structure is set but notice how nice the transition is between the path and the surrounding coarser area...
Bill
You got me! I should have gotten the wood detailing tutorial going before now, but once I dove into the diorama proper and the castings together, my time disappeared...imagine that! Will get that going soon, and thanks for "rattling my cage" about that.
i just ordered my O scale version of this kit, and can only hope to get close to your results. amazing work on siding boards, and everything else. this is fantastic work! i do , however have a question about the dirt application: when you're rubbing in your paths, has the dirt already been glued down, or do you do this prior to the gluing?
The paths are all made after the dirt is glued and completely dry. That is key for this to work. When you rub your finger over the dirt it knocks down the high spots and large aggregate creating a smooth path with nice transition to the edge. Rub a little get a little variation, rub a bunch and you get a very smooth area.
Love the base so far buddy.
So, with that about done I will be putting in a couple of simple LEDs and then move on to the planting of the remainder of the structural components...I will post an update this weekend regardless of what I do or don't get done...I love the "poke" in the side on this one Wes...you're a good man my friend...Ken
I shall be very interested in how and where you add the LEDs please. I use copper foil underneath for powering them only 3v LEDs
I hear ya Bryan...the drive through canopy is beautifully designed and is attached to the side of the Welding Shop roof, so a fully removable roof is not in the cards here. Being a rather small shop, the views through the open doors are quite nice and afford a good perspective of the interior appointments. I plan to help it along just a bit with some basic lighting.
I am posting a couple more pictures of the finished shop that gives a better look at the entire thing. Sorry for the many images but I wanted good documentation prior to installing the roof...fast forward if needed!
I did not notice it previously but I must compliment you on the finish of the floor in this shed. What I said about your dull and dry surfaces certainly applies here. You set the standard. I would have never guessed that the lightness between the boards would look right but it does. In close up it looks like you, ever so slightly, took the edge off of each floor board. Subtle but most effective.
Mitch
I do a similar treatment for old wall siding. I lightly sand the sharp edge off just the outside edges not the inside. The outside then appears worn and the inside edges nice and crisp...thanks again Mitch and nice "talking" with you...Ken