Thanks very much indeed Stevo and Woody, I appreciate the comments.
Woody, as this was my first SWSM kit I followed Brett's exceptional instructions and manual to the letter. I did everything I was told and that's how it turned out.
Hey Karl. I will echo Stevo and Woody by saying it turned out great.
Could you explain how you glue all the clutter down. For instance the corner with the paletts and other junk in the last picture. I was thinking diluted white glue, but that will spoil the chalks ive applied to the castings.
wohoo just finished tool shed and rigging shed i will post some photos later. ordered saw mill machinery kit last week,got in before the arse fell out of the aussie dollar. Brett please send it ASAP cause got nothing to do now,oh by the way its in my son in laws name Paul Brunic if the missis knew how much this was costing me she'd divorce me. cheers.
Innitially the main details were set down into the wet ground cover to make them appear part of the scene and not 'floating' above it, this is described in the manual. the dirt/scenic base was wet with dilute white glue, I did also put a small blob of pure glue on the base of the castings prior to sinking them into the dirt.
Picture below shows main details in wet 'dirt'...
Once the main castings were in place and dry I used a detail brush and some of the dirt to dust around any glue that had marred the casting, this looks just like dirt/dust splashed up on the casting and creates a seamless joint and really makes the details part of the scene.
Once happy, all of the smaller junk was layered on top, as per the instructions, using tiny amounts of pure yellow glue or super glue, dependant on the detail part. Again if any glue did 'ooze' out it was dusted and blended in with chalk on a detail brush, but this should be minimal if you are careful.
It takes some planning and a little time, but, I was more than happy with the results and overall effect....
Quick question for Brett I finally got the toolshed project underway. In the manual, you mention staining both sides of the siding even knowing that the inside will not be seen. Is there a particular reason?
just seems easier sometimes to finish both sides but you don't have to.... for the beginner it eliminates the potential of gluing the wrong side outward.
Brice, just a couple of other examples of what you can get when following Brett's techniques and being "liberated". I have not completed the dock or castings yet as this will be mounted in a larger diorama currently under construction.
Very nice indeed! I really like the last pic for the color and the texture of the wood. The nailed pieces of wood to stop decay is a nice touch. I migt steal the idea.
Very nice build. Really like the wood colors. I noticed the rusted out drum on it's side with the hole in it in the 2nd photo...how did you make that one?
2 observations to note: the rust is very orange. Is this just in the photo? This is a personal preference but I like to tone down the rust with a little brown chalk or IA. The texture of the rust is great. 2nd some of the boards look to be scribed with a razor saw...most notably on the doors. Makes the grain look a bit straight.
Thanks for the nice comments,the holes in the drum were done with a dremel deburring bit just hack the crap out of it.The doors as well as all the other timber was done with a razor saw, i like distressed timber look,but i see your point about straight lines,thanks. The rust being bit orange, i wanted it to look a bit fresh here there like if it had rained a couple days ago.This being only my second build i welcome your comments, you can only become a better modeler by taking on board other modelers ideas and comments, thanks. Thanks also to Brett for making the best kits on the market. Cheers Stevo
Comments
Woody, as this was my first SWSM kit I followed Brett's exceptional instructions and manual to the letter. I did everything I was told and that's how it turned out.
Karl.A
Could you explain how you glue all the clutter down. For instance the corner with the paletts and other junk in the last picture. I was thinking diluted white glue, but that will spoil the chalks ive applied to the castings.
Thanks in advance for the help.
cheers.
Innitially the main details were set down into the wet ground cover to make them appear part of the scene and not 'floating' above it, this is described in the manual. the dirt/scenic base was wet with dilute white glue, I did also put a small blob of pure glue on the base of the castings prior to sinking them into the dirt.
Picture below shows main details in wet 'dirt'...
Once the main castings were in place and dry I used a detail brush and some of the dirt to dust around any glue that had marred the casting, this looks just like dirt/dust splashed up on the casting and creates a seamless joint and really makes the details part of the scene.
Once happy, all of the smaller junk was layered on top, as per the instructions, using tiny amounts of pure yellow glue or super glue, dependant on the detail part. Again if any glue did 'ooze' out it was dusted and blended in with chalk on a detail brush, but this should be minimal if you are careful.
It takes some planning and a little time, but, I was more than happy with the results and overall effect....
Karl.A
Thanks very much Brett !!
Karl.A
I finally got the toolshed project underway. In the manual, you mention staining both sides of the siding even knowing that the inside will not be seen. Is there a particular reason?
Tanks
Brice
Brice
I really like the last pic for the color and the texture of the wood.
The nailed pieces of wood to stop decay is a nice touch. I migt steal the idea.
2 observations to note: the rust is very orange. Is this just in the photo? This is a personal preference but I like to tone down the rust with a little brown chalk or IA. The texture of the rust is great. 2nd some of the boards look to be scribed with a razor saw...most notably on the doors. Makes the grain look a bit straight.
The rust being bit orange, i wanted it to look a bit fresh here there like if it had rained a couple days ago.This being only my second build i welcome your comments, you can only become a better modeler by taking on board other modelers ideas and comments, thanks. Thanks also to Brett for making the best kits on the market.
Cheers Stevo