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Woodcutter's Shack - HO - My First SW kit

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  • edited November 2014
    Phil,

    I think your work is looking great and wouldn't be aware of the windows without you mentioning them,

    John
  • Thanks John. Happy Thanksgiving.

    Phil
  • Of course a Sunday evening shouldn't go by without an update. The weather here was crappy during Thanksgiving and all of my teams were equally crappy, so I had more time to work on the build.

    First, I finished the shed. I'm finding that gluing on the legs to the top can be tricky and you have to use whatever means necessary to keep it square.

    image

    But it turned out well. BTW the shed is not leaning. It must be the angle of the photo.

    image

    Next came the tar paper. Another dumb mistake!! I can't read a ruler. Instead of cutting 3/8" strips, I cut 3/16" strips. I noticed my mistake about three sheets in and corrected it.

    image

    Then came the interesting part which called for some artist ability which I am still trying to find. It involves a wash on the tarpaper. I used a combination of a rust, brown, and grey chalk. I found that you have to start with the brightest color (rust), tone it down with the brown, and then lightly bring in the grey. The good thing about chalks is that you can cover up your mistakes with more chalk. Here is the result that I finally accepted, but I am very willing to receive your comments on how to do it better.

    image

    Next was the tank stand.

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    After building the ladder (no picture), I moved to the castings. Karl's tutorial is what brought me to this site, so I will follow it to the tee. I rounded up the popsicle sticks, the two-sided tape, the toothpicks. The two pictures below should look familiar.

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    I hope you guys don't mind me rambling on. I want to give other rookies the details of what worked for me and what didn't. BTW Brent, double-sided scotch tape will stick on wax paper very nicely. With this I don't have to spot glue anything and I don't have to spend unnecessary time picking off the glue spots. This has really speeded up the process.

    Phil
  • Phil, you have it nailed. - and speaking of that, the nails in your platform look great to me. I never thought of doing that on my project. I was so happy to see the itty bitty pieces not fall apart that nail perforations never crossed my mind.

    I am approaching a phase where your up side down roof and rafter assembly will be of assistance. "Keep those cards and letters coming".

    Respectfully,
    John
  • Phil, this looks a fun kit to build; it has a bit of everything. You are doing a super job.

    Marty
  • Thanks John and Marty for your comments. It has been fun, but challenging. Phil
  • BTW I found a source for cedar shingles in the right scale dimensions for HO. Thin is .011, medium is .018, and thick is .038. The sheet size is 2.5" x 5.5".

    http://www.sierrascalemodels.com/

    Phil

  • Tank framing looks good and precise Phil, nice work.
    Also a good start on the castings, a nice light even coat of colour. Great base to work from.

    Karl.A
  • That's the way to do it, Phil! Whatever it takes to keep it square...do it.

    I love to see the way you set up your castings. You'll be very glad you took the time to prep them this way when it comes to adding the color in the next steps.

    For the tar paper, you can get some interesting effects by streaking them with chalk FIRST, followed by cutting them into strips. By doing this prior to cutting, it will sort of look like several different rolls of tarpaper were used--some are gray while others are more black or red. After installing them on the roof, you add some more light streaks of chalk to unify the roof. That's how I got this look on a tarpaper roof:

    image

    Keep up the good work!
  • Karl and Bill, thanks for your encouraging words. Bill, your technique on the tar paper sounds interesting. I'll definitely try it the next time

    BTW I blackened the pewter parts and buffed them. Should I do this for all the pewter parts or just the ones that are supposed to be metal?
  • Generally just the ones supposed to be metal, and predominantly worn metal.
    I generally just give the others a quick rub with an old toothbrush, to clean off any oxidation/residue. The blackening gives a good tooth for paint adhesion I find.

    Karl.A
  • Thanks Karl. Phil
  • Keep it coming, Phil. Really nice!

    John
  • Nice job with the shed. It's so simple but so hard to keep the exposed posts straight.
  • This weekend was all about painting the castings. I am following Karl's tutorial, so I started with Rembrandt powers, a magnifying glass, and a lot of patience. Below are my castings so far.

    imageimageimageimageimage

    I spent a lot of time on the woodpile. I wanted one stack with older wood and one stack with newer wood. The color for the new wood was challenging, but at least I got something close to what I was looking for.

    I would love to know a great recipe for coloring chopped wood. Next, I believe I paint all the metal objects. I'm doing a bunch of traveling this week so I doubt I'll show much progress next Sunday, then it's the holidays and I'm traveling some more.

    Phil
  • Phil,

    Looking good and you have definitely made the "older" looking pile of wood realistic. Safe travels . . .

    Respectfully,
    John
  • Thanks Joe and John. Yes, the tank.... I'm a bit intimidated by it because I want it to look pretty weathered. I'm not sure what I'm going to do.

    Phil
  • Phil, nice start on all the wood based castings. Looks like you have that down real well. Your wood pile coloring looks darn good from where I'm sitting. Nice job. Ken
  • A very convincing wood color on the castings.
  • I know you all were looking for my Sunday night update, but my travel is getting in the way of modeling. I was in Seattle and Toronto last week and headed South (Texas and Arkansas) for the holidays this Saturday. No more modeling until almost the new year.

    I would like to wish each and every one of you a wonderful holiday season. Merry Christmas. Phil
  • Excuses, excuses.....

    Best wishes back at ya Phil.

    Karl.A
  • Phil,
    Do you get to SEA often?
    John
    Seattle
  • John, I'm typically flying through. Phil
  • OK. Keep me in mind if the opportunity presents itself. John
  • Will do John. Phil
  • Guys,

    If you're wondering about my progress on my build, I've been distracted with traveling, the holidays and getting sick. Also, as I mentioned, I will be moving back to the South in 2015 and unfortunately, I have to dis-assemble my very first layout. See the before and after pictures below. As I'm breaking it down, I'm remembering all the hours I put into it, but all is not lost. I've gained a tremendous amount of experience and my next build will be better than ever. I'm also glad that I'm able to save most of the expensive components.

    Hopefully I'll be back to my build soon. Happy New Year!!

    image
    image
  • Sad to see the layout coming down Phil. It started to look great.

    I hope we get to see in progress shots when you start the next one.
  • Look at it this way Phil, you can make room for more SierraWest kits this way...like the Deer Creek Mine series....

    I love how you did your layout though with the nice sweeping profile, great stuff. Good luck with the move and keep us posted on your progress with a new layout.

    Ken
  • Thanks Ken and Wes. The house doesn't go on the market till March 1. One of the requirements for the new house is a large train room. I will definitely build the Deer Creek Logging Series with the Twin Mills sawmill as a centerpiece. Phil
  • Phil,

    A shame to tear down but you have it well organized. Really nice - thanks for letting us see what you are doing. Looking forward to hearing positive results on your move.

    John
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