Howdy, Stranger!
It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!
Categories
- 959 All Categories
- 3 Picture Posting and Resizing
- 56 New Member Introductions
- 115 Off-Topic Forum
- 4 Photography
- 2 Resources
- 16 New Product Information
- 167 The SierraWest Forum
- 9 Brett's Blog
- 119 General News & Ramblings
- 3 Re-Release Information
- 6 Q & A about SierraWest
- 9 What Would You Like to See?
- 388 Builds
- 141 HO Scale Builds
- 168 O Scale Builds
- 60 Finished SW Build Pics
- 14 Miscellaneous Builds
- 190 Techniques
- 19 Working with Wood
- 20 Painting Castings
- 5 Masonry
- 23 Scenery
- 37 Tools and Supplies
- 21 Layout Planning & Building
- 40 Miscellaneous
- 24 Prototype Information
- 22 Reference and Research
Comments
I ended up getting better results on the ribbed than the corrugated...the corrugated looks like a jumbled mess right now. I may need to rework a bunch of the panels. We'll see once they are all dry.
Here's the end of the project of the day. One last step I did on these panels was to take my alcohol that has dissolved chalk from staining wood and shook it up and coated the panels with this mixture for some dust and grime.
1) don't skip ahead and install the frame of the wall extension until the roof is constructed and at least temporarily fitted. You just can get it spot on by measuring alone. If you do as I did, not to worry, it is fairly easy to adjust by popping off a few boards to make them long enough to fill any gap.
2) Brett's measurements are precise. More so than mine. Make any necessary adjustments to the size of each roof panel before adding battens. There are many areas that effect the placement of the roof like the metal roof, placement of the maintenance shed, the sawdust bin, the rafters being in the right place, etc.
Overall this was a very straightforward step with minor adjustments mentioned. The pic here shows placement of the initial stage only. Next I will take these off and install the corrugated and tarpaper patches and battens.
A question was asked earlier about making the roof removable. The whole roof will not be removable. It's too big and bulky and fits very closely around a number of other components. I am going to try to make the big panel seen here and extension as a 1 piece removable section. I think that's doable.
marty
As a bonus, some of the wood had natural saw band marks which I tried to keep intact during the brushing. I opted not to add knotholes.
Ken
My initial thought on the roof was to just have this section removable but now I'm rethinking that. I like the idea of having the other front section removable as well. I just need to figure out how to work around the smokestack guy wires.
I see what you mean about dealing with the chimney guy wires. do you have any thoughts yet? Looking great!
Respectfully,
John
The solution I came up with was to have the two wires removeable. If you use piano wire it will hold its shape much better than brass.
Two holes in the roof (anchor plates) to accept the wire, and the two in the "stack collar" for the other end.
Place the roof in position and bend the wire to shape/size and cut off any excess. It is then a simple process of installing/uninstalling the wires as and when the roof comes off/on.
Looking forward to you next update on this terrific work.
Karl.A
I'm taking a small break from the roof and working on one of my add-ons. Any guesses as to what it is?
I have been looking at all of your fantastic work and details in your pictures. This is absolutely a masterpiece. I hope you can take it to one of the conventions or the fine scale model expo. It would be awesome to view and photograph. When you are done the photos should be in a fine model magazine.
The add on is a hoist to lift logs lumber or machines?
Jim
You win the prize...if there was one...for guessing a hoist. I should have just shown the parts unassembled.
Here's the 2nd part of the loading area. Truck bumpers. Now I think I will get back to the roof.
Respectfully,
John
John, the tires are resin castings from Rusty Stump. I sanded down the tread until I got it where I wanted it then painted.
Ken and Wes, the paint is Ranger Crackle paint. Love the effect you get with this stuff. My white was all dried up so I used linen. Once it dried I lightly painted white with acrylics. Once this dried I brushed off the flakes. The rotted top was picked out.
So I've been looking at the big hole in the ribbed roof and wondering how to flash it. I really didn't want to try metal flashing on this area. Do you think this would be plausible with tarpaper? It's not glued down yet.
If it were me, I'd use paper flashing rusted up to look like metal, tucked under the metal roofing and fitted up around the stack and then some black simulated caulking around the stack and edges of the roof panels. My thought is the tar paper would be too fragile to be plausible as a flashing. But geesh...who am I? you've been doing a fantastic job on this thing without my hot air!
If you can make the paper conform to the surface a little more it would look like lead flashing if painted a dull gray.
I have seen lead flashing used around domestic wood heater flue but I don't know about a commercial type chimney.
cheers
Dave
Looking GREAT! I'm anxious to see how you deal with the stack flashing. Thank you for sourcing the tires. Your tread wear is very realistic. Please keep us all up to date.
Respectfully,
John
Lead flashing? Who would have guessed it. I ended up going with metal. I just couldn't get past the idea of tarpaper though I did like the contrast it gave to the metal roof. Here is a pic of the front and back stacks installed. I used some cut paste from my bonsai supplies to make a tar seal. It's a gray clay product I painted with "oily black" for the tar color.
I'd say this phase of the build is 99% done and I'm moving on to the scenery. There will be just a few minor details to add to the structure as they occur to me...like some hoses on the fire walk.