Howdy, Stranger!
It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!
Categories
- 954 All Categories
- 3 Picture Posting and Resizing
- 56 New Member Introductions
- 114 Off-Topic Forum
- 4 Photography
- 2 Resources
- 16 New Product Information
- 167 The SierraWest Forum
- 9 Brett's Blog
- 119 General News & Ramblings
- 3 Re-Release Information
- 6 Q & A about SierraWest
- 9 What Would You Like to See?
- 384 Builds
- 140 HO Scale Builds
- 165 O Scale Builds
- 60 Finished SW Build Pics
- 14 Miscellaneous Builds
- 190 Techniques
- 19 Working with Wood
- 20 Painting Castings
- 5 Masonry
- 23 Scenery
- 37 Tools and Supplies
- 21 Layout Planning & Building
- 40 Miscellaneous
- 24 Prototype Information
- 22 Reference and Research
Comments
Your work is looking great. Please continue - the more the detail the better for us new folks.
I'm looking at your other thread.
Respectfully,
John
Stuart, I think you should take any idea from here that you think will suit your plans.
John, get the sand. It's better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it.
Speaking of the concrete blocks, the blower block is out of place. I planted it too close to the edge of the floor so the belt is on the wrong side. I debated on re-planting but decided to just wrap the belt around the piping. You will never be able to see that it is not on a pulley on the back side. Also, since my grade was a little deeper than the pilot I ran the pipe under the floor beam instead of over it. I didn't want to put the block on a riser. I also created some pipe supports from stock 8x8 & 2x8
I'm trying a technique here where one of the boards has curled up at the butt, presumably coming un-nailed. I'm not sure if I will include nail holes over the floor as I think that could look overdone on such a large floor surface. If the raised board grows on me I will use this sparingly over the entire floor.
Just some ideas to consider.
Marty
Colours are all looking great and the debris under the mill and the detail under there has all come out very nicely indeed.
I kinda did the same thing on my mill engine governor belt. I forgot to put the wheel on during construction so just wrapped the governor belt around the shaft....... no one will ever know... unless they are reading our posts !!
The curled boards are a great idea and look good but as mentioned in a working mill they would have been nailed down pretty quickly to avoid trips and falling head first into a 5' high spinning blade. One place you could use the effect would be along the edge of a loading dock or one of the staggered angle edges. this would make sense as those areas would be more prone to the elements and the boards more likely to warp due to a loose nail. as mentioned, weather and split the board end a little more to show increased weathering leading to its failure.
Build is looking fantastic overall.
Karl.A
I'm working on the rest of the floor and there is a small discrepancy in fig 3 on template 5 with the photos in the manual. I went with the photos and ran the planking all the way up to the rails for the carriage.
I'm to the point where I need to construct the dead roll extension. At some point I need to rework my carriage also. I have too much overhang on the hardware to clear the blades.
The instructions and template 5 were outstanding. If you started this at one end and worked to the other, I can just about guarantee the boards will be crooked. Filling in the 12 areas on the template kept it all very straight. Though by about step 9 it started to get a bit complex.
I'm about to start on the walls and I'm thinking a lot about the lights so I'd be glad to hear any ideas on this. Here's my plan for the time being.
I will be using ngineering LED's. I will drill a hole in the ceiling supports to install them. That's straight forward enough. I need to hide the wires. I don't think I can find tubing small enough and workable enough for conduit so I plan on carving a groove in the top of the ceiling supports to serve as a channel to hide the wires. I will be wiring them in series vs parallel. This means I will have a set of wires for each light. They don't take up much space but they can become a tangled mess. I chose this method because it means no resistors, I can wire on the bench and install instead of wiring on the model, and if one light goes out it won't knock out 3 others in the group.
If I went with a conduit I would be looking for something no bigger than scale 4" diameter. I would want to cut a slit down the entire length for easy routing of the wires so I think stainless steel would be out. All of the brass I have seen has too thick walls. I haven't seen anything in plastic smaller than about 7" diameter. If anyone knows of a product I haven't though of please let me know.
I'll have a while to think about this as I would like to install the walls, ceiling, line shaft and maintenance shed first.
Jerry
Looking forward to how you do the lighting.
Thanks for being a pioneer with this build.
As for the LEDs, I would suggest using the current limiting device from Ningeering. It makes figuring out much easier. They also have steel tubing that will fit your size requirements. I would avoid the splitting and grooving is possible, conduits are more real.
marty
Excellent work and photographs. Please continue with the detail.
Look carefully at Ngineering's tubing catalogue. I bought .018" which at my HO scales up to 1 1/2", a perfect real life size I think. They have tubing available in many wider sizes so any scaling is possible.
Respectfully,
John
I'm working on probably the hardest part of the kit for me. It seems that I am unable to make 2 sticks the same length and I have a love-hate relationship with the true sander making my squares not exactly square.
I assembled the 3 main walls using template 7 and test fitted them. The instructions call for assembly of the walls on the floor. Given my limits as mentioned above I decided to let gravity work with me instead of against me and build the ceiling beams on the work bench. Look away Brett, you don't want to see the 2nd photo.
Note: if you use this assembly method your walls are on the reverse side of template 6 and your ceiling beams with the marks are backwards. I wonder how I figured that out? Just keep the walls oriented in the same direction and swap sides and don't forget to turn the beams with the marks around.
Marty
I'm in the process of putting on the siding to the maintenance shed.
It's amazing what you can see in the photos that can't been seen in person. Things like the bevel gears need to mesh better and a couple of sagging belts. None of the pulleys or gears have been epoxied to the shafts as I have been toying around with getting them right.
I'm looking forward to starting on some castings to take a break from the wood. This kit uses about a tree's worth of wood.
Sawdust bin looks great, more aged than the interior due to exposure but sound and functional. These small nuances make a great difference in the overall picture.
As Brett says the shot with the trestle in the background looks great and gives us an idea of what is to come. Looking forward to more.
Karl.A
John
Looking at what you have done helps my in my planning on space for the Sawmill, a little demolition work is forthcoming. Thanks.
You've been very busy the last few days and it has made a huge difference to the look of the mill.
The sawdust bin looks great.
Looking forward to your next update.
Wayne, there are just a few modifications necessary from the machinery build to the sawmill. You will end up re-doing the supports on the live rolls and losing the bottom row of boards on the edger. Don't assemble the log deck, turner or haul. Other than that you are good to go. Use the same colors you plan to use on the sawmill.
I started by priming the resin castings in the normal way and giving a base coat of Vallejo acrylics on the metal drums and chalk dust on the wood barrel. I scratched them up just a little. I did a wash on the big metal drum of "smoke" mixed with airbrush thinner. On the smaller one I used an enamel "Kursk Summer Earth" from AK Interactive.
After this dried I drybrushed the wood barrel with "barnwood" craft paint. The metal barrels got a few rust streaks and a dusting of light brown pigments which was fixed with alcohol. The wood barrel got a coat of IA.
I mixed some rust pigments with alcohol and colored the bands on the wood barrel and put the ground rust on the metal drum.
Marty