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Comments
OM (Kevin
when I was a young teen, I went to northern Arkansas to help my grandfather work on his house. We built a garage and a shed with ruff cut lumber bought cheep from a local sawmill, sort of a seconds pile. Some were weathered, some were newer.
Your wall reminds me so much of the walls we built.
Looking good, thanks for the memory...........dwaine
Shame about the 'spill spot' but I'm sure you will have no problem blending it back in and correcting the issue, thats the beauty of the Rembrandt chalks.
Your rough cut random siding really looks great and recessing the windows makes a big difference visually. The few times I've done it that way came out great (IMO) so I know how much extra effort it takes, but your pictures definately show that it's worth the added time.
YM
Oh, if that was your first spill, be thankful that it was your weak A&I bottle and not my bottle of "I",
A few of my previous build walls have been rebuilt due to similar 'incidents'..... (obviously behind the scenes and previously un-publicised)
Looking forward to more,
Karl.A
Dwaine, I looked at a few pics of the prototype of this kind of rough cut siding but mostly just winged it so the fact that it reminds you of something you built is very gratifying.
Benchtop lighting of various types so ignore the red tone. I just wanted to show the frame I assembled over the template and how I had to cut back the siding to fit them in. The frame had to be double thickness because of the recess. I lined it up in the opening and tacked it in place with a few drops of glue then carefully scribed around the frame with a #11 blade to mark it. Remove the frame and carefully cut out the siding. I stuck together two sash halves with double sided tape just to see how it would fit. Just a side note, as I looked at the temporarily assembled sash I wondered if using the double sided tape for the glazing had its possibilities. Brett, I'm sure you've had experience with this so what do you think?
KOM (that's right, Kevin Old Minion)
keep it coming....Also like the "broken" shingles using therazor saw
trick....neat idea....
Geezer
Ive finally had the chance to make some progress. Work has been chaotic lately.
The main structure is basically complete. Just need to weather the door handles, and maybe add some signs to the wall. Let me know what you think.
Regards
Wes
Question, I did just a few of the metal castings in Blacken-it, kept moving them around but still getting a few “white spots”. Although they do seem to buff out. Suggestions?
Wes, love the look of your shack. You’ve even got the stovepipe installed and rust looks super.
Dwaine
Karl.A
I guess the next thing to do will be the rafters and then on to the six pole shed....
Karl.A
What is wrong with this picture?
I have had 2 jobs finish and have not done the recaps, it is the end of the month and my reports are due tomorrow. And what am I doing, sitting at the table drilling holes in pieces of plastic, gluing toothpicks in them and painting them a base coat.
Oh well, that we suffer the slings and arrows for our hobby!!!!!!!!
Your castings are looking great by the way. Looking forward to more updates.
Karl, Brett, thanks for the help with the Blacken-it. The old paintbrush worked great. I was even able to re-do the ones I had messed up.
The yellow knots are actually some experiments I was doing in trying to capture the the lighter color of knot holes and the darker colors associated within the knot holes. The knot hole two boards below the window on the right in the third picture better shows what I was really after. I think I have developed a technique to color knot holes like this fairly easily. I'll be testing the process on the public this weekend at a train show.
The first "prototype" picture really isnt comparable as it shows creosoted wood, in which the knots in the darker boards are presumably lighter due to the creosote being washed away into the knot, as it is endgrain and would hold the moisture and draw it in, along with the creosote.
In the adjacent lighter, more natural boards the knots are the same colour as the board, this indicates to me that the strange colouration is due to the creosote/stain.
In the second pic you may note that only some of the knots are a lighter colour, not all of them, in addition to this those specific boards are darker than the rest.
In all the other boards however the knots are darker than the board which contains them.
In both cases the knot colouring is clear, sharp and distinct, there is no smudge or stain surrounding them and that is what my eye is drawn to on the model.
Granted that there are examples of lighter knots out there, but it doesnt appear to be the norm, and for me it doesnt really look right. Just some of my thoughts.
Karl.A
I did find one picture of knotholes in old barn siding with yellowish knotholes but the coloration appears pretty much confined to the knot itself, not really spreading out (as your picture looks to me).
On a positive note, I love the way you weathered the signs; I wish I were that good with those.
Buy the way KP, love the effect of the nail holes!
It is definately still in operation and leak free but it has some years on it as you have shown by the surface rusting, although this is certainly not a structural integrity problem.
Also the heavier rust around the seams and rivits is great as this is where the moisture would be held longer and therefor rust a little more heavily, nice job!!
As Brett says, try to straighten the valve handle and rafters to enhance and elevate the model even further.
I look forward to the next set of pics ........
Karl.A