Seeing Bill's (Geezer) great rendition of the Wood Cutters Shack earlier today really inspired me to get mine back down from the shelf and move forward with it.
My build was stalled for the usual reason's.....
But, seeing someone elses finished pictures of how good it all looks got me to thinking.
Add to this Kevin's new in-depth and out-standing thread on how to paint castings (centered around this kit), how could I not find motivation.
So, here's where I left it a month or so ago.
Not much further to go on the main structure for me, but lots to do to come close to a diorama looking like Bill's.
Idea's, advice, comments and questions are all welcome and invited as I progress with the build.
After all, thats why we all joined, to improve our own modeling, learn from each other, pick up an idea or technique and to share what we know....... and also of course, to just enjoy looking at each others work.
I look forward to your participation.
Karl.A
Comments
been watching yours and the others builds on the RR Line forum and so far there has been some nice work by all. I recieved my kit yesterday and i will be adding my build as soon as i can get going on it.
I look forward to more of your work. Its always inspiring.
Should be a learning experience for me.....
Jump in as soon as you can.
Everytime is a learning experience for me also Bill, it keeps it all 'interesting'....
I know that they need some 'adjustment'.... I'll try a strip or two with some raw umber shades to try and get to more of an aged red cedar colour as opposed to the grey tones it now has.
More later...
Karl.A
I think this gave a slightly warmer 'woody' tone to the shingles as opposed to the cool grey tone it had before.
I also used Kevins method of using a razorsaw to break the stripwood to length, thus giving a more aged, jagged look to the shingle ends.
Time to take a break,inspect the yard and drink a corona or two before starting the application to the roof.
Karl.A
Can you take a moment to briefly describe "Kevins method of using a razorsaw to break the stripwood to length"?
Thanks in advance.
This results in a more aged end to the boards/shingles.
I generally just snap my boards to length for things like fences, decks, rotten wall siding, anywhere I want an uneven, broken edge.
I used Kevins method for this as the shingles need to be fairly close to the same length, it worked well.
Karl.A
I added the shingles to the rear half of the roof this evening.
They still need some more attention and one or two need to be replaced, but, it's a start.
More later, or tomorrow.
Karl.A
I forgot to mention when I opened this thread......
If anyone has this kit on a shelf, or even have it started on their bench... please join in on this thread and post pics, comments, etc. of your own build.
Several builds going at the same time is always fun to follow along with, even if they are at different stages, the ideas and creativity seem to flow.
I look forward to some more participants joining in and seeing what they are doing with this great kit also.
Karl.A
I will be starting the shack soon, but i wanted to get your opinion on my wood colouring first. I roughed up a few boards with my scratch brush first then applied different chalks or weathering powders to the boards. Please ignore the fuzz.
Below are some test pieces.
the wood I am using for this kit is basswood, which as you say could take on some nice silver grey tones with the steelwool/vinegar concoction due to the tannin levels in basswood..
I purposely modeled the shack to have red cedar shingles, as I mentioned earlier, and white cedar siding.
As you are possibly aware, red cedar has very high tannin levels, which act as a natural preservative and make the red cedar more durable. Also the molecular structure of red cedar makes it a great natural insulator due to the air pockets within its composition.
This tannin level also causes red cedar to age differently by it simply darkening and retaining some of its warmer tones. This is why I previously went back and ammended the colour of the shingles earlier in the thread.
White cedar however contains different tannin levels, these levels cause the white cedar to take on that great silvery grey patina as it ages. As with many other types of wood.
The steel wool/vinegar 'stain' is indeed a great and easy method to replicate the silvery grey of aged wood quickly, however, that wasnt the look I was going for in this case for the shingles.
Thanks though for bringing this method to the attention of those who may have been unaware of it.
It's always great to throw another method into everyones mixing pot.
Karl.A
Oh well, just because I got the wall backwards!
Karl, hope you doin't mind me using your wrench in the window idea.
My first Serria West build and enjoying every turn.
Dwaine
I agree that a little time spent re-glueing the handles straight will greatly improve the look of the doors and structure overall.
Maybe also crack one of the doors slightly open. this will give them added depth and definition.
I look forward to your next updates......
Karl.A
Here is my rear wall. The left window sill needs to be glued down properly.
Let me know what you think.
After attaching the file to your post Wes you need to click "insert image".
This will show the picture in your post. I did it for you here.
The wall looks great, and the windows framing is nice and tight and straight, nice colouring and texture on the walls also.
Karl.A
Karl i tried the insert button, but it comes up with a small square with a red x in it. I will try it again later when i upload more progress pics.
OK, I got the roof on, and that has not been a 30 min job……………. Love the idea of “breaking” the shingles with the razor saw. It does give them more of a ruff, old appearance, sort of what I was going for.
Opened the door a little and kind of straiten the door handles.
One question, the darker spots on the roof are from glue. Made them look a little better with a steel brush, but under flash photography they really stand out. Do I try to cover them up w/ chalk and alcohol, or just chalk? if so what colors should I go with? Really I’m asking the best way to cover the glue spots.
Amazing how when you are doing this, the flaws do not stand out near as bad until you take a picture and blow it up on the screen.