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Comments
A few more baby steps today. Stopping early to meet a ham radio friend at the Wooly Toad: if you follow this url, give it a few seconds to let the pictures roll through.
http://www.okigolf.com/Courses/NewCastle/Pages/Woolytoad.aspx
However, here at the shipyard, the second dozen building blocks were prepped and painted. I lost track this morning (my apologies please) of a message from one of you inquiring about the source. It is my son-in-law, who works for a steel fabricator.
Additional work was done on the dormers:
Whoops, I need to straighten out the right sill!
I got this put together without breaking the door . . . .
I think a little chalk may be in order to tone down the nails, but don't want to do that while I am still handling the components.
Other than my crooked window sill, what else am I missing?
Now off to bruise a few grapes and talk about a software applications convention that I missed . . . .
Respectfully,
John
Looking very good indeed. I would suggest that you take your new camera and hunt out and photograph as many old wooden building as you can find. The look at those pictures with a critical eye. You will be amazed at what you see and took for granted. Tones in wood at various stages of aging, where paint peels, where rust collects and how water stains turn into black mould. Then there is the fading of paint of different sides of a structure, the number of missing boards, slipping window sills and how junk is organized and left to rust. It will be an enlightening experience.
The best part is then you have a library of prototype photos to refer to when you build a structure. (I have 1000's collected over the past 15 years.)
Go explore and it will be eye-opening.
Marty
Marty, I continue to be in awe of your build, your layout, etc. . . I so much appreciate you looking in and need the expertise of each and everyone here to catch any errors before I dig myself into a hole that is hard to get out of!
Mike, I felt the same way you do when I saw Paul's blocks - they made me yearn. I researched copper and found it doable with internet sources, then realized my son - in - law is in the steel business so I went in that direction. I have two dozen blocks now and think it will be adequate.
I don't have too much to proffer for view today - one would never guess it took me all afternoon to put hinges on the big doors and install the windows.
As you look at the door hinges, would someone please comment on the suitability of their adhesive. I pressed very firmly when I got them in position. Will they remain in place? I can't imagine how I could add additional adhesive without it being visible - maybe standing the doors on edge and adding either epoxy or super glue. Please comment.
I have been taking pictures holding the camera in my hand. Today's photos are with a new tripod. I believe the improvement is as you all know it would be. I feel like the pictures are now sharp.
I am on page 21 of the manual now with no omitted steps. It looks like tomorrow will add the big doors then on to the SHIPYARD stencil.Tonight I am going to review all the build logs.
Marty,
Retirement brings shakey hands and the need for the tripod. Good choice and nice pics.
The pictures look outstanding. The doors, windows, and wood colors are well done. Great job. The hinges will stay in place as long as you don't start pulling them off and adjusting them. The more you manipulate them the less sticky they become. If you get any chalk on the adhesive from your fingers or workbench they will also become less sticky. I have a lot of experience with messing up door knobs on the essentials and line side storage shed and losing the adhesive. Unfortunately, I have a bad habit of fiddling with stuff, just a little to the left or right.... and now they are stuck to my finger or have fallen off. If they are coming off I add a very small amount of glue to the back to secure them and this seems to work well. My suggestion is if they look good and I humbly think they do, then don't mess with them.
Bye the way, I originally saw the wine on your first post and took the suggestion and had a glass of Moscato while painting castings last week. Wine, model building and apple computers a great combination.
Cheers!
Jim
At the moment they are in place and I'm loath to touch them. I'll be careful going forward.
I thought about a dab of glue when I was putting them in place but decided against it.
John
At the moment they are in place and I'm loath to touch them. I'll be careful going forward.
I thought about a dab of glue when I was putting them in place but decided against it.
John
Your last pictures look really nice. Don't get too heavy handed with the nail holes as they should be there in most cases but subtile. They should not be the first thing your eye sees when you look at a wall. Your wood coloring and texture look really nice, well done.
Ken
Yes, I concur that my nails are too prominent. I am hoping and suspect I can tame them with 408.7 .
Overall looking good John, very well done! The peeling paint on the windows and nail holes in the siding appear to be a bit heavy for my taste. Maybe the camera is making them stronger than they appear to the naked eye. Common situation. Looks like you are making steady progress and will have a wonderful diorama when completed. Keep at it and thanks for posting!
Hopefully I can tame my nail holes and the white with some chalk? I'm thinking of waiting until I'm ready to stand the walls up and the dormers, and assorted parts are added. I'm trying to be subtle but see my inexperience is thwarting my effort .
I am in Montana this week on a Coast Guard project earning some play money for these adventures in dioramas. Presently busily engaged in "office work". Do you notice anything familiar on the computer screen?
Respectfully,
John
Polson, MT
Marty
Drawing even more attention to the nails with rust streaks would be a bad idea in my opinion. Simply tone them down with the wall colour, close them up if you can and blend them in.
Practice this on some scrap wood before touching the real walls and show us what you come up with on the scraps first would be my suggestion.
Karl.A
Dave
Respectfully,
John
Keep up the great work.
Jim
As a former New Englander, I love the enormity of west. One town I get to is in a county with almost twice as many square miles as the whole state of Rhode Island and there is only one traffic light in the entire county! Springtime in the mountains is always pretty.
Today ended up being a short work day in The Shipyard but I finally reached the fabled task of painting SHIPYARD. I lightly taped the stencil in place then weighted it to keep the important edges against the planks.
Brett's manual, Paul and Marty have stressed the importance of not overdoing the paint quantity. For the first time in the build, I think I may have under done it! If any of you have time, I'd really appreciate opinions if I need to add a whisker more paint.
As per Brett's manual and Marty's suggestions for version 2.0 of The Shipyard, I installed the large door frames but will deal with the doors much later - I have an idea to expound on one of Marty's suggestions.
Lastly, I wish to inquire about glue. I have two speeds of epoxy and super glue - none of which I have used but hold against a possible future requirement.
I am using TiteBond III for everyday work - I believe several of you do so. It has been mentioned someplace that white glue was tasked with a job that wanted a slower setting time than TiteBond - as well as being what you appear to universally dilute with water for soil and "trash" attachment. Is this the correct product?
Comments on my paint scarcity and glue would be very much appreciated.
Respectfully,
John
Leave the sign as is. Once you have removed the stencil it a challenge to get it back in place. As for glue...i've used the white all my life glue oak strips together. I must of used 200 gallons or more during my stair builder days. It does take time to dry/cure and when it does it holds! However, it is not stainable most of the time. I'm an inpatient modeller and like my glue to grab and stick with only a minute or two for adjustments, the titebond allows that. The white glue is reserved for scenery and things I can clamp to hold inplace. I don't even use it for gluing oak anymore.
I hope this helps.
Marty
I didn't like the look of my SHIPYARD paint work - it was bothering me, so I scrubbed it clean with alcohol, reapplied some 408.3 to hide the residue white shadow and tried again - after additional practice on the opposite side.
This looks reasonable to me if it doesn't give anyone else heart burn . . . the darker appearance is my lighting. If necessary, after it is completely dry, I think I could lighten it with white chalk or additional brushing
Respectfully,
John
Karl.A
The re do of the shipyard sign is very well done. Great job.
Jim
Are you going to match/blend the colour on the other walls to this one?
\Marty
The thing I like about posting is the careful scrutiny - thats what I need - so yes Marty, I need to make them all comparable. I may try to lighten this new one a bit and darken the others. I'm afraid of screwing this one up though - I think I like it. I can do to the others what I did to this one - some 408.3.
Thanks all for comments.
Respectfully,
John