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Comments
Karl.A
Thanks DJ/John. DJ the tools like castings give the appearance as if someone was just there and adds life even without LPs.
I said it before...with Brett's kits, and you'll see what I mean John if you haven't already, by the end of the basic structure build you have such a personal attachment to the thing...and then you start staring at it, turning it around to all known possible viewing angles, and thinking of all the things that you want to include to dress out the diorama. Careful here not to try and do too much and without thought to the overall goal of the original dio, I know cause I've done that. The little things by themselves don't seem to do much but when you combine them all into the entire diorama those little extras speak volumes. I do have to reel myself in at times to not get carried away!
An earlier one..
Karl.A
Note: Large oil drum is leaking oil so a piece of corrugated roofing material was bent up to form a catch pan and an old rag is on the edge. A few old license plates are on the left wall, rest is obvious I would guess....Ken
Karl.A
What a brilliant job Ken. Wow.
Scott
Shay987...so you like the poison ivy growing up the side..seems to work OK so far.
Finally ready for some dirt...Ken
Karl...couldn't have a better compliment...thanks.
Karl when I point out the wrench I meant the second picture love that detail I have the picture on my computer as an idea I like to use ( if you don't mind) I don't want to steal your idea
DJ
Check with Karl, but I bet that idea of the wrench propping open the window has been copyrighted!:)
Still no thoughts on the brick door stop.....sigh.....Ken
However, it is these 'unseen' details that make a scene real, the eye does not see them but the subconscious does, Chuck Doan is the master at picking up on, and modeling these types of details, things that we don't focus on consciously but they fill in the background of the realism, sometimes the overlooked is most important.
There are ways to make it more obvious, the door slightly ajar with the brick between the door and the frame. Scuff marks on the floor showing where the brick has been moved back and forth. Or, the subtlety you have shown, where the viewer is drawn in by everything else and eventually will see it and say "wish i'd thought of that".
Karl.A
When you do nail holes, do they need to be chalked to show?
Respectfully,
John
I hated to jump into Kens thread with my pictures but in the past week 4 or 5 of my ideas have been used around various forums and my name not mentioned. Sometimes it just gets frustrating.
I look forward to seeing your pictures. It's not stealing, it's sharing.
Karl.A
My thoughts on nail holes echo Brett's instructions and here's how I do them..
The nail holes should be very subtile as its the combined effect of the nail holes that gives the appearance you want. They would actually be nearly invisible in 1/87 but as Brett states walls would look unnatural without them particularly clapboard walls. I use a round pointed metal scribe. As with wood grain, if you place the nail holes then use water based liquid you may find the nail holes close up. I impart the nail holes after my boards are colored and textured and then just a light dab of AI (alcohol and India Ink)to the board ends. This will highlight the nail holes. If you want a look of rusty nail holes here and there you can use a very fine brush and just touch the nail hole with a bit, dinky little bit, of rust chalk and then a bit of AI. One final note. I put my nail holes in before I place the boards on the walls. I have better control, can add splits and cracks at the nail holes and I don't favor pushing in nail holes on a delicate finished wall.
Sorry you asked aren't ya John??
No, I am not sorry I asked - you told me precisely what I want to know. Both of the above paragraphs are "keepers" for me. Your comments about what closes the grain after brushing is so logical yet I overlooked it in practice, though I am subconsciously aware of such a natural occurrence. I have beat up some of my planks so bad with the toughest brush sold at Home Depot, thinking I am going to wear it paper thin and still don't see the wonderfully deep grains that most of you produce. Post wetting and not cleaning them out would be partial contributors.
Respectfully,
John
Your last 4 pictures of the end of the building are phenomenal! Outstanding detail work that will make this project a real gem. Love it!
For people like me who haven't done a paid day's work of manual labour in my life (I come from a long line of eggheads) it is fun researching storage and work yards and machine shops and such. There are so many great resources on line now one can really learn about how these old facilities functioned and looked. And seeing how others model these areas.
Dirt....I use real dirt in a couple of different colors shades. I sift it through a mesh screen pretty fine for the base layer. I then use various coarser materials on top of that for the various areas on the diorama. The best stuff for that I found was sifting the fine material from an old gravel parking area. Got some nice variation in material and textures. You'll see it on Duluth when I post those pictures.
I was checking in to see what you are up to. This initial shot with the scenery is superb.
At least to my eye it seems very natural. Great placment of the weeds and debris. I like the bucket and hose on the dock too. You asked me what I am up to. I am working on the Lineside Storage Shed. Bye the way, I have been going back to your marvous build of this kit as I do mine for inspiration! I thought I might have the Logging essentials kit done but am still working on it too. Keep up the fantastic work! Looking foward to seeing the completed scenery!
Jim