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Duluth Company

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  • Technical answer.. yep they would stay open themselves if in good condition. It depends on how dilapidated or maintained the structure I am building that influences my choice on whether or not to use a prop. If I do I only do one maybe two per structure, I've used the standard stick, a wrench, a soda bottle for variety, as you say any effect is diluted if it is over done or over used.
    That's my opinion anyway.

    Karl.A
  • Very nice job, Ken! The colors are subdued and faded just like one would expect for a building with some years on it. All the joints look tight and the texture on the clapboard siding is spot on.

    A very minor suggestion: My eye was drawn directly to the propped up window in the last outdoor picture above. There's a pop bottle, a piece of wood and an old rag. I'd ditch one or two of those elements. When I evaluate pictures of models, I immediately look for give aways--things that indicate what I'm seeing is not a real structure. In this case, I think it may be because the wood scrap is too big. At first glance next to the bottle, it looked to me like an out of scale ball peen hammer. I feel like a d-bag for even pointing it out since it's such a small thing!

    Bill

  • Karl, thanks for your take on the window issue and I agree and that's just how Duluth is progressing with just a couple of windows with prop opens the rest are just open to varying degrees.

    Yo Bill! nice to hear from you and can't wait to attend your tutelage session at the Expo.
    ....very much appreciate your take on the window "clutter", it's the small things that make the difference as you have all demonstrated and I aspire to! Let me explain my thinking, or lack there of, of why I added that stuff.....then if it seems excessive to you I may po-po the idea...

    The window in question will overlook the back deck on Duluth which will bring the window to within say waist high or a bit higher on HO scale LPs. My idea, to add a little zip to the back, was to have a workbench casting right below the window with a couple of same size strip wood boards and clutter to make it appear that some work was going on and the rag, bottle, and board were set there temporary. Maybe have a saw horse set-up and a repair being made to the deck....or something on those lines. Would it help if I told you it's a bottle of backwoods brew?
  • Backwoods brew??? Now we're talking!
    Like I said, it's no biggie--just jumped out. With the additional castings and mini scene you have planned, it sounds like it'll fit in we'll.

    I'm looking forward to the Expo. Just booked my room and flight today, as a matter of fact. Less than two months!
    Bill
  • Bill, lets do this....I'll finish the scene and just bring the thing to the Expo as it sits at that time. We can scrutinize it over a cold one!

    Ken
  • Deal..we'll charge the drinks to Brett or Karl's room
  • Bill, Not only do I like the way you model....I like the way you think!
  • Here's an update on Duluth. Rafter tails installed and Cupolas are windowed and roofed but the windows still need the final weathering and are just sitting in place not glued yet. I spent a good deal of time mulling over the chimney detailing on this awesome metal casting of Brett's. Wanted a weathered sooty look and this is what I came up with. Next up is finishing the roof with flashing, the remainder of the roof stacks (2) and get the awnings on while I can still turn the building on its side.....Kenimageimageimage
  • Right on the money with the chimney! Just like in real life bricks aren't just one color. As they're baked, some get darker than others. Well done!
    Now...how'd you do it?
  • Hey Bill, Thanks for thumbs up on the chimney, I was pleased with how it turned out. I primed the casting with Floquil Gime and then painted most of the bricks with Polly Box Car Red, a few with Polly special Oxide Red and Roof brown. Cap was then painted with Polly concrete and the stack with Polly Grimy Black. When all this was cured I lightly dry brushed the bricks with Polly Oily Black. Then with Rembrandts I chalked the stack with a damp brush (Alcohol) and Burnt Sienna 411.3 (rust) then a damp brush on the cap with 700.5 (black) but very lightly. I finished off the brick with a DRY heavy application of Burnt Umber 409.3 and then blew off the excess. I finished it off with a little Oily Black around the rim of the stack and in the hole of the stack. Brett's a genius on these castings...just look at the detail..some bricks chipped, the cap not perfect just like it would be...etc..

    Have you tried Wiseman models for any of your vehicles for Quincy? I did a stake bed truck of his and it turned out fairly nice but nothing like brett's castings as you mentioned!
  • Nice color on the siding. A good job on those doors and windows.

    Jerry
  • Hey Jerry, Thanks for the note and I have really been enjoying the windows and doors. Brett makes it such a pleasure to mess with them and get them detailed up. Hard not to do too much to them! I just finished the metal awnings and will be posting an update soon. Ken
  • Looking great Ken, love the chimney...
  • The walls in your last pictures look great Ken, coupled with the doors and windows is a perfect match well done.

    The chimney just looks fantastic, beautiful job on that, very realistic colouring.

    Karl.A
  • Brett, Karl: Thanks for the response, you guys are the best... being as busy as you are to still carve out some time to keep us pumped up! Karl, your work on the Saw Mill machinery is outstanding by any standard. Although it's O Scale...I still can't wait to see it completed. I'm done with Duluth proper and am working on the peripherals. Will post an update on this this weekend.
  • Thanks for the update Ken, looking forward to the pics.

    Karl.A
  • Duluth Update. here are a bunch of pictures of the finished Duluth main building, less covered loading dock, rear deck, and open storage shed. I deviated somewhat on a few details outlined under the appropriate picture. Having a blast with this great kit of Bretts. If you didn't get one back in the day or during his re-offer of late you're missing out on a really cool build. KenimageThe back of Duluth, a deck is scheduled here.imageI built the green fabric awning off the build and then attached once completed. With the three metal awnings, I wanted a ever so slight sheen of metal poking through the weathering so I applied the color and chalks then rubbed the awning along my hardwood board that I made up to weather the window frames in the one direction giving some subtile streaks and the slight sheen. I then put a couple of dents in the awning edges here and there and added some rust along the seams.imageimageimageFront view of Duluth. Concrete loading dock scheduled here down the entire front.imageimageWall vent along side with open storage shed scheduled below.imageimageThe flashing was also modified a bit. I didn't like how the flashing was butted up against the bottom of the window frames on others I have seen. I wanted Brett's great window frames to stand out so I used my blade and carefully cut away the bottom board above the roof and butted the falshing up to it instead. I also gave the flashing some tool marks, a little rust, and the seams gone over with Polly Oily Black.imageimage
  • One last pic I didn't get in that illustrates the tool marks better. Kenimage
  • Hi Ken,
    Fantastic job! I really like the details. The awnings are very nicely done. The flashing looks old and weathered around the cupolas as well as the very nice effect around the vent on the side of building and the faint weathering below the windows. Again a superb job!
    By the way, the photography is very clear and crisp and really highlights the overall weathering and details you have done. This the fourth build and you are getting closer to being done with Duluth and what will be next on the agenda for the Railroad Barron? Lots of fantastic kits by Mr. Gallant. Perhaps another Twin Mills, a Seaport, or the Logging Camp?
    Jim Richards
  • Very good, Ken! I agree with your decision on the flashing and I really like the boarded up window in the top cupola--perfect little detail. Looking forward to your work on the concrete loading dock.
    Nice photography, too by the way.
  • Hello Jim,
    Always nice to get your perusal and appreciate the positive comments. Appreciate the thumbs up on the pictures as it does take some messin around to get them decent. The roof color in the pictures is way off on most shots as it is much darker and weathered quite bit more than indicated. Some pics look like the shingles are right out of the box! The first couple of pics come closer. I have a nice stable of un-built SWSM kits I've been pulling together so not sure yet which will be next...hmm...geesh...have to finish this one first. Nice having you along as always my good man.....Ken

    Hey Bill,
    Yea, I was happy how the flashing panned out. Thanks for the notice on the boarded up window and the non-mention that the "stuff" is still in the window! Any advise on the concrete dock? I have been tossing around how I'll finish it off as it needs to be right as it's such a focal point of the build. Also, would you fill in the small gaps at the end of the ridge caps? Don't notice them much in scale but the pictures suggest maybe I should. Can I reserve a front seat at your "modeling addiction" support group session at Expo??
  • Hmmm...the ridgecaps. Before we fix it, let's look at why the gap is there in to begin with. I think you probably sliced the roof card too deeply which, when folded, opens up the cardboard more than it should. Next time, try to cut a slit about a third of the way in--just to score it. Then fold it into shape. On this roof, if it you think it's really noticeable, you may want to take some square stock (whatever is close to the same thickness as the card stock--a scale 4x4 perhaps?) and carve, sand or shape it so it fits into the little gap and is flush on the end with the cardstock. A small piece is all you'd need but make sure it gets colored the same as the cardstock (probably Roof Brown). If needed, dust the edges with some chalk powder into any remaining seams or spaces...do that as a final weathering step.

    For the concrete I'd stay away from any color that's a light gray. To me, that says that it's new. Concrete with some years on it tends to yellow as it ages. Go with whatever the manual suggests and then adjust the final color with chalks...some gold ochre, maybe a rust streak, but nothing bright yellow. I'm just guessing right now, but that's the plan I have in my head for a concrete retaining wall I have to do here shortly. But, I'm sure you'll get it right...you've got an eye for color.

    Yes, there are still front row seats available at the Expo (in fact all seats are available). But a heads up: There will be NO refunds!
  • Bill,
    Ahh...the fine print and disclaimers! We'll probably have to sign waivers of liability..

    The roof card was pre-sliced from the kit and I'm sure Brett assumes if you can build the kit you can certainly cover up a dinky hole if so inclined. I like you idea of a small "plug" fashioned to fill the gap. It certainly would have been easier if I thought to fill it before putting on the shingle stock. The small gap from the ridge to the filled area of the card stock would look and would have acted as a vent of sorts.

    You're right...Brett's instructions echo your sentiments exactly and was my plan of action. Since you mentioned it specifically I thought you would have some good additional comments which you did. So...who goes first and messes up so the other wont?
  • Heck...I'll give it a shot. The paint should be cured and I'll try it tomorrow.
  • Here's one wall:

    image
  • By golly I think you've got it!...Ken
  • Ken the building really turned out nice. Some great little details.

    Jerry
  • Thanks Jerry and from the posts I gather you'll be at the Expo? Look forward to meeting you. Ken
  • great build. Thanks for posting. Love the wall vent.
  • Thanks James! Just finished the covered loading dock base and moving on to the roof and supports, then the open shed, then the deck on the back, then the concrete loading dock in front....lots of cool stuff for a relatively small foot print of a build. Brett's a wizard when it comes to that kind of thing and we all love it! Ken
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