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Tractor repair shed-A mirror image
Having been inspired by Joel's build of this kit I wanted to get it started. I have a spot on my layout right up front to place this so all of the interior details can be easily seen. Putting it here required putting the blacksmith shop on the other side as you can see from the first pic. The large, non-descript structure behind it is approximately the size and shape of the Boiler and Welding shop from the Railroad Camp.
I started on the siding by brushing and adding knots then coloring with Rembrandt chalks # 408.3 and 253.3 then lightened with 100.5. A coat of IA with a dusting of 408.9 on 1 side only. Once this was dry I wiped down each board to blend in the 408.9 then gave a light brushing to re-define the grain.
I applied the siding and added nail holes. This was followed by a light brushing of IA on the outside only. Once dry I lightly sanded to weather then drybrushed with Folk Art "Barnwood". This is where I am at now.
The next step will be to add the battens and window frames and follow with another dry brushing and then an IA "creep" up the walls from the ground.
I started on the siding by brushing and adding knots then coloring with Rembrandt chalks # 408.3 and 253.3 then lightened with 100.5. A coat of IA with a dusting of 408.9 on 1 side only. Once this was dry I wiped down each board to blend in the 408.9 then gave a light brushing to re-define the grain.
I applied the siding and added nail holes. This was followed by a light brushing of IA on the outside only. Once dry I lightly sanded to weather then drybrushed with Folk Art "Barnwood". This is where I am at now.
The next step will be to add the battens and window frames and follow with another dry brushing and then an IA "creep" up the walls from the ground.
Comments
1: creating an illusion of distance: for example by placing smaller trees behind larger ones makes the forest look deeper. With my proposed placement the larger building will be behind the smaller one.
2: the idea of blending; for example when we paint we don't want hard lines, we blend our transitions of colors. If I use this placement there will be a hard line between the camp and the woods.
If I choose to use a much smaller building behind the tractor repair I can accomplish both the illusion of distance and allow for some trees to give the smoother transition. This leaves me with the question of where to arrange my buildings.
Attached here are a couple of photos of the main camp area. The first shows the area where I was planning for these structures to go...empty. It shows where the transition is to take place. The 2nd shows a long view of the entire camp area. I have a few choices for your consideration.
1: leave as proposed with both large structures at the end of the camp
2: leave the tractor repair and a smaller structure and move the welding shop...potentially to where the tool and rigging shed are located
3: leave this area for the welding shop and move the tractor repair to where the tool and rigging shed are located...this would turn the tractor repair around and no longer be a mirror image.
The space in the areas in question have 18" from rail to edge of layout at the proposed location and 14.5" from rail to edge where the tool/rigging shed are located.
Thank you in advance for your input.
The main walls are just about done and the color here is very close to the real thing. I'm playing around with AK Interactive "slimy grime" for a possible moss growth at the very bottom.
I cut out an area of homosote on the layout for placement. From there I traced this shape onto some Gatorboard and wala the diorama base is ready...with room for the shed on the other side of the tracks and I think a nice pipe rack behind the repair shed.
I will be putting the rails in flush with the floor instead on top of the floor. The rail ties have been installed with extras installed around the perimeter of the main structure to support the floorboards. I am installing a 3x6 riser to the bottom of the wall frames to raise it to the proper height. These will be hidden once the landscape engineers put a grade in the dirt. Just in case they are visible in some spots I will color them to match the walls.
This build is definitely much different than the other kits I have built in that the vast majority of the work and time will go on inside the building rather than outside. I'll start prepping the castings soon...there's only a gazillion and I was expecting a gazillion and three.
You can see the 3x6 riser at the bottom of each wall to compensate for the ties underneath since I put the rails flush with the floor.
I got the resin castings prepped and painted one up. It sure looks nice right in front of the main door.
Nice job so far. Castings look good.
Jerry
Colouration on the flooring looks terrific and I like the way you have raised the walls up to have the rails flush with the boards.
Work on the castings is looking like a good start, I always liked that bench with the
blueprints, a great detail.
Thanks for the updates, keep them coming!!
Karl.A
I got a lot done this weekend. The big interior castings are in along with some boxes I made and filled with stuff for under the benches. I added a 12x12 stop at the end of the rail so noone drives right through the back of the shed. The figures seemed to fit nicely here. One guy holding onto the workbench for dear life...I'm sure something is rolling past him. And another helping back something up into the right spot.
The dirt has not been set yet...I need to mix up some more matte medium, but I wanted to get a feel for how the grade would work on the raised building. Looks fine to me. I'll set this and then a finish layer will be added on top of that. I put some rails out back to hold some wheels and axles.
I got the walls put together on the support structure. Believe it or not it was colored with the exact same chalks as the main building. I just flipped the main color to 253.3 and added in 408.3. This helps me to lay out the scene.
I started work on the Cat. The tractors are the most intimidating part of this build for me so I wanted to get started on it. I put it all together and primed with a flat brown then painted on a liquid mask and sprayed with Tamaya Camel Yellow and have started to chip away at the paint. The results are promising early on. there's a lot more chipping to do from here. Once done I will hit with Dulcoat to take the gloss off and start with chalks, rust and grime streaks and weathering powders.
I like the yellow on this but am thinking gray for the Bates.
The 2nd tractor is in much better shape and is getting re-treaded. For a laugh I put a guy with a rag on the cat like he's wiping down this wreck. Also for a laugh I had to add another cat.
The roof is put together and the structure is a convertable. I've been putting off the wiring for the lights but really need to get that done.
The details are nearly all put in place. Next step is to add some weeds and other greenery. I'm working on a couple of trees right now since this will come right up the edge of the woods. This should make the scene blend right in. After planting these I will add some foot paths and the rest of the smaller details.
The handcar (lineside) shed is done except for the roof. Once again waiting on lights to be wired.
Karl.A
I am enjoying watching you put these kits together. The scene is really well done. The details look like pictures I have seen of logging camps in the Northwest. The castings and weathering is excellent!
I keep wondering what is around the corner on the first picture after seeing the scene you are putting together. The trestle is another eye catcher.
Did you make the tree trunks? I like the moss on them as well it is a detail that is usually overlooked.
Great job.
Jim
Jim, around the corner in the first pic...the track continues on over the trestle towards where the sawmill will be. The top track is the tail of a switchback at the top of which is the sub-camp and logging areas. I did carve out the tree trunks and added the moss.
I'm adding the lights now. Not fun from my perspective but I'm sure it will be worth it. from there will put down the finishing touches.
Once I get to work on scenery on the layout there will be woods behind both buildings so I put a few trees in here.
Looks like I should have come up with a way to put weights on the roof while the glue dried. Maybe later I'll fix it.
The lighting is really something and takes your great build to another level.
Fantastic work.
As for coming up with a way to put weights on the roof to hold it down......
A ziplock bag semi-filled with sand (or similar) is perfect. It will conform to any roof angles you have on your structures and disperse an even weight across the roof to hold all the edges down while the glue dries.
Karl.A
Ive been over the pics twice and im really enjoying what I see.
sfc, when you do your mirror image just make sure you are gluing the boards on the correct side of the framing. I checked and double checked so I didn't have to tear the siding off and start again. A quick way to check is to build the framing in place using tape to hold it together and mark the outside of the walls with some chalk.
And don't forget the tip about the sand in the ziplock baggie or the roof will warp when the glue dries...I found out the hard way.
Jim
I started with the 18v power supply and used the power distribution board side A. This side does not require external resistors. Side A has 4 sets of solder pads for 4 lights each. I used 8 lights for the scene above and plan to add on the other 8 available to other structures later. There is a "power in" and "power out" place on the board. I hooked up the power supply at "in" and the forge at "out" It was pretty simple-once I emailed ngineering a few times. They were very helpful and responsive for this electrical newby.
For installation in the layout I cut a hole in the plywood big enough for the distribution board then covered the bottom with some cardboard. This created a cavity big enough to hold it. The dio was put in place and covers the board. I can retrieve the board from underneath the layout by removing the cardboard. I cut the wires long so I can pull the tangled mess out (hopefully without damage) to add on the other lights later.