Howdy, Stranger!
It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!
Categories
- 955 All Categories
- 3 Picture Posting and Resizing
- 56 New Member Introductions
- 115 Off-Topic Forum
- 4 Photography
- 2 Resources
- 16 New Product Information
- 167 The SierraWest Forum
- 9 Brett's Blog
- 119 General News & Ramblings
- 3 Re-Release Information
- 6 Q & A about SierraWest
- 9 What Would You Like to See?
- 384 Builds
- 140 HO Scale Builds
- 165 O Scale Builds
- 60 Finished SW Build Pics
- 14 Miscellaneous Builds
- 190 Techniques
- 19 Working with Wood
- 20 Painting Castings
- 5 Masonry
- 23 Scenery
- 37 Tools and Supplies
- 21 Layout Planning & Building
- 40 Miscellaneous
- 24 Prototype Information
- 22 Reference and Research
Logging Camp Essentials
At long last I have made a start on the HO logging camp. My first ever real build besides some basic "company houses" and a plastic station and plastic water tank.
It has taken a long time to gather all the ingredient needed, as per the manual, polly scale rail road tie brown and roof brown arrived the other day.
These things can be hard to find or go on a back order here in Australia and cost twice as much, I paid $10 for one bottle of polly scale paint plus postage
However I am on page 6 and the timber is soaking over night and the stained timber is drying
Well thats it for now.
It has taken a long time to gather all the ingredient needed, as per the manual, polly scale rail road tie brown and roof brown arrived the other day.
These things can be hard to find or go on a back order here in Australia and cost twice as much, I paid $10 for one bottle of polly scale paint plus postage
However I am on page 6 and the timber is soaking over night and the stained timber is drying
Well thats it for now.
Comments
That sounds like a great combination James and all those kits will sit very nicely together, I look forward to seeing your ideas and watching your progress.
Main Street / Essentials are two fantastic kits and I always enjoy watching the build threads.... keep the updates coming guys.
Karl.A
So I have progressed and the first bunk house walls, view block and the top and bottom braces are in place.
Many lessons learned, including but not limited to stabbing or cutting my fingers.
Front view:
Side view with windows
Rear view:
Side view, no windows:
Angle view:
I found getting the windows just right the most challenging, and going by the angled photo I still have more learning to do.
More progress next week, its school holidays here and that means I/we work non stop 24/7 to protect the schools.
Bretts instructions say to "streak about a third of a sheet with concrete". repeat with aged concrete, dirt and grimy black
Does this mean one third of the rows of shingles, top to bottom, or from left to right? ( thirds with four colors ?? )
or do we streak all the way top to bottom so everything is random?
John.
Shingles stained and glued down.
No patients, had to get on with it.
Still needs some fine tuning.
I too am working on the Logging Essentials kit. I hadn't posted my build due to my snails pace of building with my work schedule. I am on the last two kits of the build.
The castings are amazing and fun to paint when taking a break from building the buildings too. Your first building looks great. Fantastic job!
As far as your question about the shingles, I painted all of mine on the sheet before placing them on the building. I uses an almost dry brush when streaking the shingles with Brett's recommended paints. I found an interesting article by Mike Chambers on the Rusty Stump's web site and it was also in the Westlake's Modeler's Annual about painting paper shingles. This gave me a visual idea about how they should look after initial painting( since I though I had created a giant mess). Also an interesting effect occurs as the paint dries on the brush, you get some streaking like real wood shingles. I then cut them up and applied small strips with yellow glue. This gives a good varity of colors on the roof and gives you options about placement.
Another thing I want to tell you is to assemble the door knobs prior to painting they are really small but add that extra layer of detail). I had trouble getting the knobs to stick to the plates. I think this may be either my handling them or the vallejo paint. Probably the former. I am going to use a small amount of glue when putting the knobs back on.
Looking foward to your next post.
Jim
I also find it hard to find the time to get on with it, the grass grows like mad, work, work and more work. and must not forget the family and the animals.
Any way the roof vents are on, surprising how photos show up all the faults, hoping some minor touch ups will fix them
Now it is starting to rain I might get a bit more done.
The camera does indeed show up any flaws but this is a great modelling aid. I usually take many photos through a build and study them to find flaws and correct them before moving too far along.
The camera is also your friend, the low angle of the last shot disguises the uneven shingle rows on the right quite nicely.
I understand what you mean about patience, however, sometimes we need to step back and slow down a little. The results are always so much more rewarding.
When using the shingle sheets I cut the rows into thirds or quarters as opposed to laying a full row, this breaks up the pattern and adds much more variety to the roof.
The article mentioned by Jim previously is quite a good descriptive of the technique, but then again it should be as it is taken from, and based on Brett's methods.
Keep having fun and keep posting updates, I'm enjoying this build.
Karl.A
Looks good from here. Nice tones with your boards; walls look nice and square.
One thing I did catch is that the door is upside down. If it's not too much trouble, I'd pop it off and flip it over so that the smaller section is at the bottom.
Essentials is a great kit. Keep finding time where you can and keep plugging along. Brett saves a treat for later in the build (the Fuel Depot)! That was my favorite structure and I'm sure you'll enjoy putting it together.
Bill
Buying a proper camera tomorrow, sick of crappy photos.
I am thinking about slicing the roof vent away from the wall section and inserting some timber to fix it, but that might just wreck it all together. The slats, well... ???
They all blend together well but are different enough not to be bland.
The individual board colouring really came out nicely indeed. good job.
Any chance of a few close ups of the problem area to try and do some long distance brainstorming.
Wish I had time to upscale this beauty of a kit... I guess I'll keep enjoying following your build and getting ideas for now.
Karl.A
-K
Bill, there must have been an Australian carpenters gang hanging those doors (on a friday afternoon)
No more progress so far, we are either roasting in the sun down here one day and in the midst of a flooding ex cyclone (hurricane) the next with a few tornadoes thrown in to keep it interesting. The power has been off for 5 days, clean up out the way.
Did get a new camera for some better close ups, I hope.
Here are some close up photos of the problem roof.
The height difference is no more then 1mm or 0.040" but you can really see it.
Hope the quality of photo has improved and i have got the resizing right.
I really like the buildings and the details you have done. You are are doing a great job. I went back and looked at the roof of my build and it too has a small sag at the ends. This occured when I placed the shingles up to the roof cap which raised the two center sections when applied over the shingles. I should have put these on first and then shingled around them. I ended up sanding the two center sections slightly to lower the hump and then applied the roof over the vents This eliminated most of the hump in my build.
Keep up the good work. I am enjoying watching your build. I think you will enjoy the next building, the fuel depot. Lots of detail, really cool, and the terri cloth technique for the peeling paint on the fence is really nice. Have fun. I have really enjoyed the kit immensely too.
Jim
I think your sagging effect actually looks pretty good. Just like in reality. Some buildings are structurely weaker then others and therefore sag a little. I also don't think you will have to rework anything.
It is really nice to follow all these different threads and see Brett kits being build. Gets everybody to know the kits really well and each can figure out on its own if its something for their layout.
Thanks for posting. You are doing a fine job. Just keep the updates coming.
PS: A month ago you wrote your struggles with the heat, rain, wind. Well, right now we are dealing with crap load of snow way up in the North here in the US.
Karl.A
No logging camp progress at the moment, just trying to do rocks.
Summer time has been a weird one down here. First half was record hot temperatures and no rain at all, the second half has all been rain and floods and cyclones. Not much fun being outside at the moment,in our fifth week of non stop rain. 100% humidity, I think, is not good for modeling with wood. So we will go to New Zealand for a holiday instead.
I am trying to plan the township around the bunk houses and passenger station as per Bretts plan, template G and F. Due to the lack of room I can not use Bretts plan.
I would like to know if my ( HO ) Atlas flex track ties are of the same standard width compared to other manufactures, and Bretts instructions. I need to know how much room to leave between the track and the station, from the edge of the ties to the edge of the platform.
Hope this makes sense.
John.
DJ
I will have to go back in and pay attention to some fine details and try some chalk on them shiny spots.
and a small experiment with some scenery.
And in the Taieri Gorge Railway in New Zealand