I have painted the bottom of the interior walls an off-white.
I now going to do this to the roof pillars & crane supports. The pieces were stained and let dry 24 hours. Then glued with Le-page's wood glue and clamped for 24 hours.
The draft tape will represent "banding" holding the 24" X 24" beams and hoist supports together.
We all have seen the plastic centers of scotch-tape. They can be using as the core to make towers, bins, or tanks. Also they can support items like this while the paint dries. Once the paint dries I will put on the banding.
I changed my thumbnail/profile picture because I just love Brett's engine so much. I was able to take some pictures this AM so here is an update of the last few days.
I glued down the roundhouse to the polystyrene.
I believe I have stated before that there will be no roof so the detailed interior can be seen. Therefore I am engineering all structure parts up to the rafters. Here I have placed the roof pillars.
This is the area under the overhead hoist with depicted blown sand and drips from the hoist.
As I said before I made places where there was no paint as a good glue surface for the objects later.
This is what I have made it look like. There will be some touch ups around the walls.
This is what some of the placements will look like.
I have placed some grass/weeds where the dripping water might allow some growth on top of the concrete.
This morning I hope to continue with details and start on the floor. As I said before, I have to have this at a train show next Saturday morning at 7:00 AM. So I will have to be satisfied with good not just completed. Must keep up to the standards set by this forum. Thanks for all the encouragement and inspiration you have given to me. More updates as I proceed.
It is Thursday afternoon and the floor is not done. I did add another track to the module for M.O.W. equipment. Put a scratch-built bumper at the end.
I have glued in the four (04) Tichy hoists in their places in the roundhouse. There will be rafters over them supporting the upper swivel plates.
The hardest job was picking the colour for the floorboards. I taped down a scale ruler on my chopper to cut scale 20 foot boards. For some variety I cut a few 18 feet and some 16 feet.
When I stain scale strip-wood this is the method I use. Hold a small piece of cloth in the fingers of one hand. Put some stain on the piece of cloth. Then drag the board through the cloth with your other hand's fingers. I like the variety of colour. I also can control the strength of colour by pressure, how often I put more stain on the cloth, and immediately wiping some of the colour off with the cloth if it is too dark.
I am hoping the stain is dry for tomorrow morning so I can lay floor for Saturday.
Never thought of putting the ruler on the near side of the Chopper blade. How close is it to the tip of the blade? When you swing the Chopper arm up does it hit the edge of the ruler? And if you move it away from the same edge how do you get a clean cut on the stripwood lower edge closest to the ruler? I hope I've phrased it so you can understand the question.
Hi Alan, it was good to meet you at the Schomburg show. Just want to say that every thing looks great. It was great to see it in person, your eye for details are great. Keep up the good work and I am looking forward to see it again next year.
Sorry JohnM I was not ready for the show as I ran out of wood for the floor. I was able to buy more from the Mount Albert wood boys. It was great to meet two forum members at the show. It is nice to talk and discuss their work face to face as I appreciate how good their is. Marty, the ruler is as close to the blade as I can get it without interfering with the blade's stroke. I use the grid on the chopper as a double check for aligning the cut line. I did not win any prizes and received many nice comments on the project's progress. More pictures later as I am off to church.
Thank-you JohnM, Marty, John, and Jerry. Here are some pictures of the start of the floor install.
I had much more done Friday night. After I was home from the show here are some pictures of the last part of the floor that was done.
It is amazing how when you move the camera and the light is different the colour of the floor changes drastically. This morning I cut to length and stained more wood. Tomorrow morning I hope to finish the floor. Once all the floor is done then I will start the weathering to look like a busy facility in good repair.
Alan the floor is beautiful. Your fit is perfect! I have the same color issues. I am wondering about a couple of metal shade work lamps to flood the area with light and at least have a "norm" that would produce consistency. That combined with an equally consistent set of camera settings ought to help I'd imagine.
Is the area that looks like pebbled stone actually that? Will you grout the spaces?
JohnM please compare the following two pictures and you will see that the pebbled area was the cork under the boards.
In the real world I am happy with the colour.
I need to spend some time on finishing Brett's castings to place in the roundhouse so I can design traffic patterns. Then I will go at this pristine floor with the chalks.
The floor in some pictures does not show the red tones. I need to built the ramp from the roundhouse floor to the shop as the concrete shop floor is lower by a scale 8 inches. Yard work is starting so this may be as far as I get before the Fall.
Comments
John
I now going to do this to the roof pillars & crane supports. The pieces were stained and let dry 24 hours. Then glued with Le-page's wood glue and clamped for 24 hours.
The draft tape will represent "banding" holding the 24" X 24" beams and hoist supports together.
We all have seen the plastic centers of scotch-tape. They can be using as the core to make towers, bins, or tanks. Also they can support items like this while the paint dries. Once the paint dries I will put on the banding.
Karl.A
Respectfully,
John
After another 24 hours of drying I then proceeded with the weathering. First was some black chalk.
Then with an eyedropper added some alcohol/india ink.
Then smeared with a q-tip. Then a new Q-tip to remove excess alcohol and most of the colour.
Arrived as these. I expect them to lighten as the alcohol evaporates.
Respectfully,
John
I was able to take some pictures this AM so here is an update of the last few days.
I glued down the roundhouse to the polystyrene.
I believe I have stated before that there will be no roof so the detailed interior can be seen. Therefore I am engineering all structure parts up to the rafters. Here I have placed the roof pillars.
This is the area under the overhead hoist with depicted blown sand and drips from the hoist.
As I said before I made places where there was no paint as a good glue surface for the objects later.
This is what I have made it look like. There will be some touch ups around the walls.
This is what some of the placements will look like.
I have placed some grass/weeds where the dripping water might allow some growth on top of the concrete.
This morning I hope to continue with details and start on the floor. As I said before, I have to have this at a train show next Saturday morning at 7:00 AM. So I will have to be satisfied with good not just completed. Must keep up to the standards set by this forum. Thanks for all the encouragement and inspiration you have given to me. More updates as I proceed.
I have glued in the four (04) Tichy hoists in their places in the roundhouse. There will be rafters over them supporting the upper swivel plates.
The hardest job was picking the colour for the floorboards. I taped down a scale ruler on my chopper to cut scale 20 foot boards. For some variety I cut a few 18 feet and some 16 feet.
When I stain scale strip-wood this is the method I use.
Hold a small piece of cloth in the fingers of one hand. Put some stain on the piece of cloth. Then drag the board through the cloth with your other hand's fingers. I like the variety of colour. I also can control the strength of colour by pressure, how often I put more stain on the cloth, and immediately wiping some of the colour off with the cloth if it is too dark.
I am hoping the stain is dry for tomorrow morning so I can lay floor for Saturday.
John
Never thought of putting the ruler on the near side of the Chopper blade. How close is it to the tip of the blade? When you swing the Chopper arm up does it hit the edge of the ruler? And if you move it away from the same edge how do you get a clean cut on the stripwood lower edge closest to the ruler? I hope I've phrased it so you can understand the question.
Marty
It was great to meet two forum members at the show. It is nice to talk and discuss their work face to face as I appreciate how good their is.
Marty, the ruler is as close to the blade as I can get it without interfering with the blade's stroke. I use the grid on the chopper as a double check for aligning the cut line.
I did not win any prizes and received many nice comments on the project's progress.
More pictures later as I am off to church.
Jerry
I had much more done Friday night. After I was home from the show here are some pictures of the last part of the floor that was done.
It is amazing how when you move the camera and the light is different the colour of the floor changes drastically. This morning I cut to length and stained more wood. Tomorrow morning I hope to finish the floor. Once all the floor is done then I will start the weathering to look like a busy facility in good repair.
Is the area that looks like pebbled stone actually that? Will you grout the spaces?
Respectfully,
John
It was good to put a face to a name at the Narrow Gauge show.
I got five bundles of wood from the Mt. Albert booth for $5 per bundle. It took a few hours to sort it, but I must have saved hundreds of dollars.
Love the joints in the floor boards.
Marty
Jerry
JohnM please compare the following two pictures and you will see that the pebbled area was the cork under the boards.
In the real world I am happy with the colour.
I need to spend some time on finishing Brett's castings to place in the roundhouse so I can design traffic patterns. Then I will go at this pristine floor with the chalks.
The floor in some pictures does not show the red tones. I need to built the ramp from the roundhouse floor to the shop as the concrete shop floor is lower by a scale 8 inches. Yard work is starting so this may be as far as I get before the Fall.
Jerry
John