Magnificent Paul, so much detail and character packed into that structure and all done superbly. I'm really looking forward to following your build of the saw shed, such a great scene on the diorama.
Thanks Karl, Jim, Brett and Jerry. As I’m progressing through this build, the structures that have been assembled thus far are stored just above my work bench on a shelf, relatively safe.
Onto the Saw Shed and first step as usual is stressing and staining the strip wood. I’ve decided to stick with the pastels I’ve been using:
Keeping the strip wood separated:
The templates:
The template cut down to fit on my glass work surface:
Assembling the posts and braces with just a pinch of glue to the wax paper:
Adding the first floor joist on the opposite side of the bracing.
Here’s where I scratched my head a few times … the drawing shows the cross braces extending to the outer edge of the vertical posts, but on the side elevation you do not see the end of the cross brace, so it must be behind the post. After checking a few times, figured out they should be trimmed to fit on the inside of the posts. Sure hope I’m right, cause I won’t know tillI I put on the roof rafters:
… and finally the cut:
Flipping the sides upside down and vertical to the template, the cross braces were glued in place (with a little help from the bus-bar weights and SWSM square). The bus bars become an intricate part in the assembly of this shed… as you’ll see:
Gluing the other side in place:
Gluing the bottom braces (which are currently on the top of the frame) to the posts and cross braces (pictures are much easier to describe these sorts of things.
… and the completed frame:
That’s it for now, taking a break this afternoon and watching the Pat’s season opener.
Wow Paul that's a lot of pictures !!! THANKS!!! High volume, High quality pics, High quality modeling, really couldn't ask for anything more.
The structure looks fantastic, even sitting up on the shelf its a great shot.
The sixpole shed is coming together perfectly, outstanding and ingenious work on getting all of those angles at perfect 90's superb job. Nice colour too.
With all the great work you've done I really think you should either market sets of busbar weights or get someone to do it on your behalf and split the proceeds! Great stuff...
Thanks Karl, Mike, Wes and Bill, always appreciated. Mike, I’ve thought about making and selling these bus-bar weights, maybe I’ll bring a few to the expo to see how much interest there would be. Bill, I’ll probably have the Shipyard ready for the 2014 FSMR Expo…
Next up was the floor of the Saw Shed, but first the floor joists. By chance, the bus-bar weights fit snugly between the posts, providing support for the braces as the floor joists were applied.
Onto the floor boards using the Chopper, distressing the ends and lightly staining:
To start, the first plank needs to be trimmed to fit around the post and flush with the joist ends (all done by eye):
Now for the planking, bus bar weights amazingly fitted between the posts perfectly:
Notching around the first post encountered:
Unfortunately (…I have no idea how this happened…) the #11 point got my 3rd finger, little sucker wouldn’t stop bleeding (probably due to the blood thinners I’m taking).
Next will be finishing the floor and then it’s up to the roof (will need to find some PC board etching solution for the metal roof).
Paul beautiful work as usual. Love that notched first plank. Hey be careful we can't have you getting blood on the floor. Oh I guess we could say one of the workers got hurt!!!!!
Thanks Mike, Joel, Jerry. Gotta keep those Exacto knives at a safe distance while laying planks. Jeff, welcome to the forum, I’m typically short on words but hefty on the pic’s.
Moving right along with the Saw Shed, now that the bleeding has stopped.
Planks in place on the first two sections (left to dry):
Result thus far prior to starting on the other end:
Starting from the other end with a couple of planks and then moving to the end of the shed, so as to end up in the middle (for trimming planks).
Moving on with the build, assembled the rafters for the roof with the supplied jig. The piece of strip wood is to ensure the correct placement of the horizontal rafter: Also made a few slight adjustments fitting the roofs’ ridge board.
It just so happens that the bus-bar weights fit perfectly between the floor joists with the posts slightly above the work surface. This made It easy to stack the weights right up to below the roof cross braces (with a little help from 1/4” square strip wood guides and some strip wood shims). This allowed installing the roof rafters with little pressure on the rest of the structure.
Roof supports in place:
Glueing the ridge board in place, ensuring equal overhang on each end:
The Saw Shed was then moved (slid) off to the side of the workbench to dry while I moved onto the workbench. After more distressing and staining stipwood, the template was taped with wax paper on top of a glass surface and the gluing commenced:
12 legs were then cut with the Chopper. A ¾” square piece of wood (this was from the materials provided in the Paw of a Bear clinic at last years expo), came in handy to vertically align the legs:
Carefully placed weights:
The saw blade and end-plate were then found and painted Floquil Old Silver.
Once the legs were dry, the ¼” square wood was used to support the work bench on its sides. Elevated and held in place by the weights:
That’s it for now, finishing the work bench and working on the roof will be next.
Very nice, Paul. I wasn't aware of the ridge beam on the shed. That's a cool little feature that I haven't seen modeled very often and you pulled it off with precision. Thanks for sharing your leg alignment idea!
Great work, Paul. Am still quietly following along. The sawmill structure is shaping up very nicely. Its going to be awesome to see everyhting finally blend together. By now everybody is probably jealous at your weights and especially the quantities you obviously seem to posses. Keep posting pictures. Its always great to look at what you publish.
Great progress Paul, I guess I'll just have to repeat myself and say how fantastic this build is. Ridge beam and rafters are perfect, as is everything else.
Thanks, Jerry, us_okrim, James and Karl. The bus-bar weights have been extremely helpful in this build (but not entirely necessary), I just have not so steady hands (and wandering fingers) and the weights help stabilize things.
Preparation of the blower and electric motor (I had previously blackened them so it was just a matter of buffing with a pointed Q-tip):
Setting up for blackening the roller castings:
And the results prior to buffing:
Dremel tool used for the initial buffing:
… and the arrangement (test fit):
… more buffing using 1/8” square piece of scrap:
Attaching the blower and saw blade casting to the underside of the table:
As you can see the state of my workbench (and shelves) has become a total mess. Seeing that we were planning on cleaning up the garage in preparation for the coming winter (ie make room for the cars), decided to take this opportunity and clean up the workbench and shelves:
before:
after (I can acutally find things now...).
Back to the castings, these belt wheels are tiny, so using the brass rod (shaft) to hold them worked perfectly:
Mounting the end plate on the table:
Final touch ups on the belt wheels (acrylic black):
The belt wheel and shaft are attached to the end plate and the whole is drilled (0.032”):
Belt wheel, shaft and lever arm attached to end plate:
The table rollers and electric motor ready for attaching:
The rollers placed but not glued with epoxy yet:
That’ll be it for now, next will be installing the electric motor and shaft in the rafters. Just two more pages in the "book" and then it's onto the diorama phase of this build.
Thanks again for detailed photo chronology. Nice to see how others work step by step. I find q tips a bit "snaggy" at times -I was thinking of gluing a bit of cloth to a stick for small pieces. The Dremel kit I have has a nice conical buffer bit- but I've never found it as a stand alone accessory...
Time for a few build stats (I was watching the World Series and I think I’ve caught the stats bug…): - FLD’s: 168 folders (ie work (build) days, but not 8 hour ones, more like 1 or 2) - PIC’s: 2,064 photos - MEM: 10.6GB’s - RRLP’s 106 RR-L posts - PSTD’s: 887 posted photos … should be tired by now but the build energy is still high.
Moving along with the Saw Shed, there’s a few details that need to added to the Saw Sheds attic, electric motor, shaft, pillow block bearing and supports, and the belt wheel. Blackened and buffed with a pointed Q-tip (these are more solid than the puffy ones and ideal for small intriciate castings, although they do end up shreading).
Laying the attic floor boards, weights back in action since the Saw Shed is really delicate:
The strip wood was used to support the planks while pressing down to glue.
Placement and alignment tests prior to gluing:
Pieces glued in place with 2 part 5 minute Epoxy:
There’s a 3/64” sq beam running along the top cross braces for supporting the two Shed lights:
The beam placed in the middle and then pushed to the side for gluing:
Glue added on cross braces and then the beam will be set back in place (all done by eye):
While the glue was drying, moved on to the lamp shade castings. This is the LED’s I’ll be using for the lamps, first thing is hollowing out The center of the casitng to accommodate the LED:
I’ll be blackening the copper tube. The two black things are the 20mA current limiters used instead of a resistor in the LED circuit. The one on the left has three leads (the middle on is not used), the one on the left has the middle lead cut off. More on this latter when I test the LED’s.
Positioning trials for the saw table, it’s offset a bit from the shed’s center line:
Now for the glue-up using 2 part 5 minute epoxy:
Now to apply a bit of pressure while the glue sets up:
Returning to the LED’s, these are really small and opti-visors are a must (along with a very fine point on a low wattage (10-20W or so) soldering iron). Double sided tape really comes in handy holding the LED down. By (my) convention, I solder the red (super thin) magnetic wire (or armature wire) to the positive and the green to the negative. There’s a green solid triangle shape on the back of the LED, the base of the triangle is the Anode (+) and the point of the triangle is the Cathode (-).
LED testing with a 9V battery, connections are: LED positive (Red) to current limiter positive, current limiter negative to LED negative (green). The current limiter can just be seen above the red and black alligator clips
Next, I’ll be installing the lamps and using a blackened copper tube to bring the wires down from the rafters (long side one of the posts). I’ll probably glue the current limiter under the floor boards in the middle of the shed.
Very cool. What size tubing are you going to use for the lights? I want to do exactly what you're doing but the wires on the LEDs I have might be too thick... Impressed by your precision. I really like the wood colouring too btw
Comments
Thanks Jim and Jerry, always appreciated.
… finishing off the Upper Yard Storage shed, glue up of the walls:
And the completed shed:
Now back to the work bench for The Saw Shed …
‘til Next,
Paul
‘til Next,
Paul
I'm really looking forward to following your build of the saw shed, such a great scene on the diorama.
Karl.A
Jim Richards
Jerry
Thanks Karl, Jim, Brett and Jerry. As I’m progressing through this build, the structures that have been assembled thus far are stored just above my work bench on a shelf, relatively safe.
Onto the Saw Shed and first step as usual is stressing and staining the strip wood. I’ve decided to stick with the pastels I’ve been using:
Keeping the strip wood separated:
The templates:
The template cut down to fit on my glass work surface:
Assembling the posts and braces with just a pinch of glue to the wax paper:
Adding the first floor joist on the opposite side of the bracing.
Here’s where I scratched my head a few times … the drawing shows the cross braces extending to the outer edge of the vertical posts, but on the side elevation you do not see the end of the cross brace, so it must be behind the post. After checking a few times, figured out they should be trimmed to fit on the inside of the posts. Sure hope I’m right, cause I won’t know tillI I put on the roof rafters:
… and finally the cut:
Flipping the sides upside down and vertical to the template, the cross braces were glued in place (with a little help from the bus-bar weights and SWSM square). The bus bars become an intricate part in the assembly of this shed… as you’ll see:
Gluing the other side in place:
Gluing the bottom braces (which are currently on the top of the frame) to the posts and cross braces (pictures are much easier to describe these sorts of things.
… and the completed frame:
That’s it for now, taking a break this afternoon and watching the Pat’s season opener.
‘til Next,
Paul
High volume, High quality pics, High quality modeling, really couldn't ask for anything more.
The structure looks fantastic, even sitting up on the shelf its a great shot.
The sixpole shed is coming together perfectly, outstanding and ingenious work on getting all of those angles at perfect 90's superb job. Nice colour too.
Karl.A
That came out great. Thanks for showing all the pics.
Will you have this done in time for the Expo?
Thanks Karl, Mike, Wes and Bill, always appreciated. Mike, I’ve thought about making and selling these bus-bar weights, maybe I’ll bring a few to the expo to see how much interest there would be. Bill, I’ll probably have the Shipyard ready for the 2014 FSMR Expo…
Next up was the floor of the Saw Shed, but first the floor joists. By chance, the bus-bar weights fit snugly between the posts, providing support for the braces as the floor joists were applied.
Onto the floor boards using the Chopper, distressing the ends and lightly staining:
To start, the first plank needs to be trimmed to fit around the post and flush with the joist ends (all done by eye):
Now for the planking, bus bar weights amazingly fitted between the posts perfectly:
Notching around the first post encountered:
Unfortunately (…I have no idea how this happened…) the #11 point got my 3rd finger, little sucker wouldn’t stop bleeding (probably due to the blood thinners I’m taking).
Next will be finishing the floor and then it’s up to the roof (will need to find some PC board etching solution for the metal roof).
‘til Next,
Paul
Hey be careful we can't have you getting blood on the floor. Oh I guess we could say one of the workers got hurt!!!!!
Jerry
Jeff
Thanks Mike, Joel, Jerry. Gotta keep those Exacto knives at a safe distance while laying planks. Jeff, welcome to the forum, I’m typically short on words but hefty on the pic’s.
Moving right along with the Saw Shed, now that the bleeding has stopped.
Planks in place on the first two sections (left to dry):
Result thus far prior to starting on the other end:
Starting from the other end with a couple of planks and then moving to the end of the shed, so as to end up in the middle (for trimming planks).
The shed floor complete:
Next up will be raising the roof ….
‘til Next,
Paul
Jim Richards
Karl.A
Jerry
Thanks Jim, Karl and Jerry, always appreciated.
Moving on with the build, assembled the rafters for the roof with the supplied jig. The piece of strip wood is to ensure the correct
placement of the horizontal rafter: Also made a few slight adjustments fitting the roofs’ ridge board.
It just so happens that the bus-bar weights fit perfectly between the floor joists with the posts slightly above the work surface. This made
It easy to stack the weights right up to below the roof cross braces (with a little help from 1/4” square strip wood guides and some strip wood shims). This allowed installing the roof rafters with little pressure on the rest of the structure.
Roof supports in place:
Glueing the ridge board in place, ensuring equal overhang on each end:
The Saw Shed was then moved (slid) off to the side of the workbench to dry while I moved onto the workbench. After more distressing and staining stipwood, the template was taped with wax paper on top of a glass surface and the gluing commenced:
12 legs were then cut with the Chopper. A ¾” square piece of wood (this was from the materials provided in the Paw of a Bear clinic at last years expo), came in handy to vertically align the legs:
Carefully placed weights:
The saw blade and end-plate were then found and painted Floquil Old Silver.
Once the legs were dry, the ¼” square wood was used to support the work bench on its sides. Elevated and held in place by the weights:
That’s it for now, finishing the work bench and working on the roof will be next.
‘til Next,
Paul
Jerry
Thanks for sharing your leg alignment idea!
Karl.A
Thanks, Jerry, us_okrim, James and Karl. The bus-bar weights have been extremely helpful in this build (but not entirely necessary), I just have not so steady hands (and wandering fingers) and the weights help stabilize things.
Preparation of the blower and electric motor (I had previously blackened them so it was just a matter of buffing with a pointed
Q-tip):
Setting up for blackening the roller castings:
And the results prior to buffing:
Dremel tool used for the initial buffing:
… and the arrangement (test fit):
… more buffing using 1/8” square piece of scrap:
Attaching the blower and saw blade casting to the underside of the table:
As you can see the state of my workbench (and shelves) has become a total mess. Seeing that we were planning on cleaning up the
garage in preparation for the coming winter (ie make room for the cars), decided to take this opportunity and clean up the workbench and
shelves:
before:
after (I can acutally find things now...).
Back to the castings, these belt wheels are tiny, so using the brass rod (shaft) to hold them worked perfectly:
Mounting the end plate on the table:
Final touch ups on the belt wheels (acrylic black):
The belt wheel and shaft are attached to the end plate and the whole is drilled (0.032”):
Belt wheel, shaft and lever arm attached to end plate:
The table rollers and electric motor ready for attaching:
The rollers placed but not glued with epoxy yet:
That’ll be it for now, next will be installing the electric motor and shaft in the rafters. Just two more pages in the "book" and then it's onto the diorama phase of this build.
‘til Next,
Paul
Hello All,
Time for a few build stats (I was watching the World Series and I think I’ve caught the stats bug…):
- FLD’s: 168 folders (ie work (build) days, but not 8 hour ones, more like 1 or 2)
- PIC’s: 2,064 photos
- MEM: 10.6GB’s
- RRLP’s 106 RR-L posts
- PSTD’s: 887 posted photos
… should be tired by now but the build energy is still high.
Moving along with the Saw Shed, there’s a few details that need to added to the Saw Sheds attic, electric motor, shaft, pillow block
bearing and supports, and the belt wheel. Blackened and buffed with a pointed Q-tip (these are more solid than the puffy ones and ideal
for small intriciate castings, although they do end up shreading).
Laying the attic floor boards, weights back in action since the Saw Shed is really delicate:
The strip wood was used to support the planks while pressing down to glue.
Placement and alignment tests prior to gluing:
Pieces glued in place with 2 part 5 minute Epoxy:
There’s a 3/64” sq beam running along the top cross braces for supporting the two Shed lights:
The beam placed in the middle and then pushed to the side for gluing:
Glue added on cross braces and then the beam will be set back in place (all done by eye):
While the glue was drying, moved on to the lamp shade castings. This is the LED’s I’ll be using for the lamps, first thing is hollowing out
The center of the casitng to accommodate the LED:
I’ll be blackening the copper tube. The two black things are the 20mA current limiters used instead of a resistor in the LED circuit. The one on the left has three leads (the middle on is not used), the one on the left has the middle lead cut off. More on this latter when I test
the LED’s.
Positioning trials for the saw table, it’s offset a bit from the shed’s center line:
Now for the glue-up using 2 part 5 minute epoxy:
Now to apply a bit of pressure while the glue sets up:
Returning to the LED’s, these are really small and opti-visors are a must (along with a very fine point on a low wattage (10-20W or so)
soldering iron). Double sided tape really comes in handy holding the LED down. By (my) convention, I solder the red (super thin)
magnetic wire (or armature wire) to the positive and the green to the negative. There’s a green solid triangle shape on the back of the
LED, the base of the triangle is the Anode (+) and the point of the triangle is the Cathode (-).
LED testing with a 9V battery, connections are: LED positive (Red) to current limiter positive, current limiter negative to LED negative
(green). The current limiter can just be seen above the red and black alligator clips
Next, I’ll be installing the lamps and using a blackened copper tube to bring the wires down from the rafters (long side one of the posts). I’ll probably glue the current limiter under the floor boards in the middle of the shed.
‘til Next (ie: at the MR Expo),
Paul
Impressed by your precision. I really like the wood colouring too btw