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HO/HOn3 Logging and Tractor Repair Shed

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Comments

  • Just fantastic, every detail is perfectly finished and placed. What natural placement. Looks like a real busy shop as opposed to the typical clutter that makes it look like the model builder is telling everyone it is a well used shop. A subtle difference but your attention to the placement of the finest detail is without peer.
    Just hands down fantastic.
  • Nice hearing from you Joel! Hope all is well.
    Thanks so much for the really nice note here my friend, appreciate ya!
  • Joel said:

    Just fantastic, every detail is perfectly finished and placed. What natural placement. Looks like a real busy shop as opposed to the typical clutter that makes it look like the model builder is telling everyone it is a well used shop. A subtle difference but your attention to the placement of the finest detail is without peer.
    Just hands down fantastic.

    it doesn't get any clearer than that.

  • edited February 24
    Thanks for the note Kevin!
  • edited February 24
    Working up the final section of the build which is the portion with the wood planked floor adjacent to the Blacksmith Shop area. The focus of this will be the 3D printed HO Scale Ingersoll Rand portable air compressor kit of SWSMs. A highly detailed print which goes together flawlessly. I decided to take a few pics of just the compressor before adding any of the fine details:

    IMG_7977

    The base print was primed with brown from a fufu can (spray can), this was followed by a light mist of hair spray. The piece had the color applied by an air brush followed by chipping the piece with a small brush and water. This "hair spray" technique allows for nice in scale chips however, one must be careful as the chips can become way too big in a hurry!

    IMG_7964

    Following the chipping, rust, grease, and fuel stain effects were sparingly applied. The radiator grill had a wash of sorts applied with AK Sooty Black Ink so as to not cover up the amazingly fine radiator detail (better picture following).

    The following is the finished piece with the details added; wheels, hand crank, tank valving, tow bar/hitch.

    IMG_7981

    Note the fine radiator detail in this and the following pictures.

    IMG_7985

    IMG_7980
  • Now that is a work of art Ken! Incredible weathering on this little guy.
    Someday, I will look up that hair spray method I have heard so much about, but have yet to try.
    My wife will start looking at me funny if I start stealing her cans of hair pooky :smiley:
  • We already wonder about you Emery! Thanks much my friend, appreciate the note.
  • Dang Ken. Masterful job on a masterful print. Makes me want to go paint mine.

    Emery, if you try it, the cheaper the hair spray the better. Like dollar tree crap. Not sure if your wife has classier taste in hers. And definitely unscented!
  • Had to post this silhouette shot of the print which illustrates, in fine order, the filigree of Brett's 3D prints...just amazing!

    IMG_7993 (1)
  • Hey Travis, appreciate that!
  • Holy crap dude! Really love that last pic...
  • Outstandingly, ridiculously well done Ken, just amazing.
  • Great little model Ken. Where would I find out how to do the hair spray technique? I have never heard of it. Randy
  • Beautifully done, love the silhouette photo.
  • Thanks much Brett.

    Hey Karl, appreciate it.

    Nice hearing from you Jim, and thank you.

    Thanks Randy. Really not much to the hair spray technique. Briefly:

    -Prime the piece whatever color you want to be showing when the chipping is done. in my case I primed with brown.
    -After the base coat is dry, spray a light coat of hairspray...just a misting, don't flood the part. Wait just a few minutes for the hairspray to dry then apply the top coat. It's important to use an acrylic top coat as an enamel won't chip.
    -After the top coat is dry to the touch, with mine I started chipping after only 10 minutes or so, get an old small paint brush and cut the bristles down so they are a little stiff. Dip the brush in water and start rubbing and stabbing the brush where you want the chips. The water soaks into the paint and then activated the hairspray causing the paint to lift. This is why you do not want to use enamel...water won't soak into the paint.
    - Go very slow with the brush as the chipping will all of a sudden start working and if heavy handed you'll get too big of chips. The finer and smaller the chips the better. You can also help things along with the tip of a toothpick make scratches or dings in the paint as this will assist the water soaking in.
    -Admire your work...
  • That came out really neat......it's amazing the detail in the HO details...
  • Thanks Ken fore your explanation. I will be sure to try some parts in the future. Thanks for the complemenken. I think your work is the best I have seen. Randy
  • Thanks Art, amazing stuff coming out of the SierraWest Scale Models Laboratory!

    Mighty nice of you to say Randy, thanks much my friend!
  • Ken,
    Wow! That is really awesome! I'll have to give the hair spray technique a try.
  • Hey thanks Tom! On certain pieces it works really well.
  • The "MASTER" has once again taken Brett's castings and made them look like the real thing!! Just a wonderful example of your very fine work!!

    Jerry
  • Good Job Ken spot on for sure........
  • Thanks so much Jerry, appreciate the support my friend!

    Hey Carl, nice hearing from you and thanks much!
  • That truly is a work of art Ken.

  • so cool.
  • Ken, I really like your silawet picture. Randy
  • Thanks guys...just a really nice close up "mood shot" of Brett's Ingersoll Rand Compressor kit in HO/HOn3
  • So many details and realistic touches. Extraordinary Ken. Thanks for sharing this.
  • You bet Tom and thanks so much!
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