It has been a while since my last post but work proceeds on Foss Landing. I have completed the Addison and here are a few photos. Construction is quite similar to the Jewel so there is no need to repeat. As with the Jewel, I chose to rig with scale blocks and rope, using turnbuckles for the standing rigging.
I will probably add some more details like netting, spare rope and barrels at a later time. This completes the structures of Foss Landing. Here are some photos of them all laid out like in the diorama.
And here is a photo of some HO scale add-ons that can be seen in the photos above.
Next up: finishing the barrels, oil drums and trash cans, then onto the Shipyard.
Beautiful work all around Jeff, the weathering and construction on everything is so well done.
Sag: One way Emery is to pull the thread through your fingers with white glue (or similar) on them to coat the thread, when it dries it will stiffen the thread and prevent the sag. I'm not sure if this is what Jeff did or not though.
Emery: getting the rigging "tight" is a skill learned over many years of ship modeling. It is fairly simple to do on small scale boats like this and is quite easy to do on running rigging (these are the lines that go through the blocks and will move). The line typically starts on a block that has a small round "strop" to tie the line to (first photo, red arrow). it then goes through a series of blocks and ends up being tied to something like a cleat or a belaying pin located on the mast or deck. The line can be pulled taut, wrapped around the cleat with a little glue to keep it in place, then add a coil to simulate the extra line (second photo, orange arrow).
Standing rigging (support ropes that are not meant to move) can be a bit trickier to get taut. On this boat, the rope starts at an eyebolt attached the mast. The rope is run through the eyebolt and the secured with a seizing (basically a much smaller rope wound around the main rope). photo below, red arrow, shows a few seizings.
The rope then has to be seized to something on the deck, in this case a turnbuckle that will be attached to a ringbolt on the deck (photo below, red arrow). The rope is lead through the ringbolt that makes up part of the turnbuckle orange arrow), which is then attached to the deck. A seizing in then placed on the rope (blue arrow). The end of the rope that will be cut is then pulled while moving the seizing closer to the turnbuckle (yellow arrow). This will tighten the rope. The excess rope has already been trimmed in the photo below. Care must be taken not to overly tighten, or this may pull the mast out of alignment.
Karl: There are a few instances I put glue in the ropes. One is to secure the area that has been seized. The other is when doing ratlines on a shroud to keep them tight and they are only secured with a clove hitch knot. Glue could be used to stiffen the line, but I would be concerned about potential residue and spoiling the look of the rope.
This may be more info that you need but hopefully someone finds it useful when rigging small boats.
Here we are at the last part of Foss Landing, the barrels and oil drums and rowboats.
Below is the small scale. I found a photo of a scale face and shrunk it down (a lot!) and glued it to the front of the scale.
This completes the structures and castings of Foss Landing. Constructions will soon start on The Shipyard at Foss Landing. Looking forward to this - a larger, more detailed building. Thanks again for the great tutorials on this forum.
Thanks for the comments. Starting on the prep for The Shipyard. I won't go into much detail here as gjdale cover this quite nicely in his log. One comment though - so many wood strips to prepare! I'll put some photos up when I've finished a batch.
here's a photo of some of the main building wood strips. Chalk (408.3) and alcohol applied after some texture. I think they look OK for now but all comments welcome. I plan do do some of the more advanced wood work as described by KKarns in his tutorial (edge sanding, bottom of boards, knots, etc) as I place the boards on the walls. This will also keep things from getting too repetitive.
Comments
Jerry
It has been a while since my last post but work proceeds on Foss Landing. I have completed the Addison and here are a few photos. Construction is quite similar to the Jewel so there is no need to repeat. As with the Jewel, I chose to rig with scale blocks and rope, using turnbuckles for the standing rigging.
I will probably add some more details like netting, spare rope and barrels at a later time.
This completes the structures of Foss Landing. Here are some photos of them all laid out like in the diorama.
And here is a photo of some HO scale add-ons that can be seen in the photos above.
Next up: finishing the barrels, oil drums and trash cans, then onto the Shipyard.
Jeff
Jerry
Sag: One way Emery is to pull the thread through your fingers with white glue (or similar) on them to coat the thread, when it dries it will stiffen the thread and prevent the sag.
I'm not sure if this is what Jeff did or not though.
Thanks for all of the kind comments.
Emery: getting the rigging "tight" is a skill learned over many years of ship modeling. It is fairly simple to do on small scale boats like this and is quite easy to do on running rigging (these are the lines that go through the blocks and will move). The line typically starts on a block that has a small round "strop" to tie the line to (first photo, red arrow). it then goes through a series of blocks and ends up being tied to something like a cleat or a belaying pin located on the mast or deck. The line can be pulled taut, wrapped around the cleat with a little glue to keep it in place, then add a coil to simulate the extra line (second photo, orange arrow).
Standing rigging (support ropes that are not meant to move) can be a bit trickier to get taut. On this boat, the rope starts at an eyebolt attached the mast. The rope is run through the eyebolt and the secured with a seizing (basically a much smaller rope wound around the main rope). photo below, red arrow, shows a few seizings.
The rope then has to be seized to something on the deck, in this case a turnbuckle that will be attached to a ringbolt on the deck (photo below, red arrow). The rope is lead through the ringbolt that makes up part of the turnbuckle orange arrow), which is then attached to the deck. A seizing in then placed on the rope (blue arrow). The end of the rope that will be cut is then pulled while moving the seizing closer to the turnbuckle (yellow arrow). This will tighten the rope. The excess rope has already been trimmed in the photo below. Care must be taken not to overly tighten, or this may pull the mast out of alignment.
Karl: There are a few instances I put glue in the ropes. One is to secure the area that has been seized. The other is when doing ratlines on a shroud to keep them tight and they are only secured with a clove hitch knot. Glue could be used to stiffen the line, but I would be concerned about potential residue and spoiling the look of the rope.
This may be more info that you need but hopefully someone finds it useful when rigging small boats.
Jeff
Jeff
Here we are at the last part of Foss Landing, the barrels and oil drums and rowboats.
Below is the small scale. I found a photo of a scale face and shrunk it down (a lot!) and glued it to the front of the scale.
This completes the structures and castings of Foss Landing. Constructions will soon start on The Shipyard at Foss Landing. Looking forward to this - a larger, more detailed building. Thanks again for the great tutorials on this forum.
Jeff
Thanks for the comments. Starting on the prep for The Shipyard. I won't go into much detail here as gjdale cover this quite nicely in his log. One comment though - so many wood strips to prepare! I'll put some photos up when I've finished a batch.
Jeff
Jerry
here's a photo of some of the main building wood strips. Chalk (408.3) and alcohol applied after some texture. I think they look OK for now but all comments welcome. I plan do do some of the more advanced wood work as described by KKarns in his tutorial (edge sanding, bottom of boards, knots, etc) as I place the boards on the walls. This will also keep things from getting too repetitive.
jeff